Blowing IOD fuse-dead short
#1
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Blowing IOD fuse-dead short
1999 XJ
Alright I'm having electrical issues galore lately and it's not my strong suit. The 15 amp IOD fuse keeps blowing in the under hood fuse box. (As shown in picture) the gauges don't work, stereo doesn't work, power locks and dome lights are all INOP. I replace the fuse and cycle the key it immediately blows again, thus a dead short. Being this fuse holds several circuits where does a guy start looking for a short?
Alright I'm having electrical issues galore lately and it's not my strong suit. The 15 amp IOD fuse keeps blowing in the under hood fuse box. (As shown in picture) the gauges don't work, stereo doesn't work, power locks and dome lights are all INOP. I replace the fuse and cycle the key it immediately blows again, thus a dead short. Being this fuse holds several circuits where does a guy start looking for a short?
#3
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Year: 1999
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Here's the circuits on your IOD fuse. Chafed wires going through the rubber boot between the body and the driver's door, or chafed wires going through the rubber boots between the body and the liftgate are prime suspects.
Also, the cargo bay dome light switch has been known to short out and blow the IOD fuse.
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Also, the cargo bay dome light switch has been known to short out and blow the IOD fuse.
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#4
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Here's the circuits on your IOD fuse. Chafed wires going through the rubber boot between the body and the driver's door, or chafed wires going through the rubber boots between the body and the liftgate are prime suspects.
Also, the cargo bay dome light switch has been known to short out and blow the IOD fuse.
.
.
Also, the cargo bay dome light switch has been known to short out and blow the IOD fuse.
.
.
#5
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Well I got home and went to try out a short finder tool and of course I opened the driver side door and everything worked again.. so I replaced the fuse, and took the drivers door harness completely out and everything still worked, even the door locks again. I found the drivers harness to have 1 broken wire and a handful of wires with broken insulation. Looks like I'll be going through all the wires and replacing them. Should solve my issue.
Thanks for the input
Thanks for the input
#6
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Seemed to have worked, however I'm still having an issue with the rear speaker bar. I'll be driving and the rear speakers will cut out completely, but if I turn the dome lights on and back off the rear speakers work for a while again.. I've found the speaker and some light wiring travel up through the drivers side D pillar. Guess I'll see what I can find..
#7
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happy hunting, wire insulation tends to become brittle with age, so you will be sure to find a rubbed through or cracked wire
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#8
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Originally Posted by Willys55
happy hunting, wire insulation tends to become brittle with age, so you will be sure to find a rubbed through or cracked wire
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Looks like someone was in there before doing similar repairs. Not surprising with these beasties.
#10
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Another question... every time I hit the brakes all the interior lights come on as though I turn the headlights on.. anyone have suggestions on that or the rear speaker issue? This has all started happening within the last week or so...
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A bewitched JEEP.... Now the brakes and interior lights(that no idea), but i had a problem with my rear speaker bar as well and turned out to be where the speaker wires came from the body to the bar was a short. Fixed the short and no issue since... I hate electrical issues to the max!!!
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WAG:
Remove the right cover in the cargo bay and examine the connectors there for water intrusion/corrosion. While you're there $h!t can that black bag.
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If you have a trailer tow set up there may be an issue with the connectors/wiring on the left side of the cargo bay, behind the spate tire.
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Apparently when you hit the brakes power is being introduced in to the dome lights circuit, or their ground(s).
#14
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Excellent advice! Those things can trap moisture and give you one of these:
#15
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Ended up being the connector on the passenger side tail light... was bright green. Cut the connector out and soldered the wires directly together... problem gone.