Ryanstemarie

The pin cavities were moving within the connector so I cut the connector out and even tested it using better connectors. Nothing. Both fans.

CCKen

Are you saying you spliced in a new connector? Dark Green wire to A and Black/Tan tracer to B.

And you verified you had 12 volts at the connector (as described above) after replacing the connector?

Ryanstemarie

Yes. Zero when's it's off. But the voltage varies very little between speeds

Ryanstemarie

And no, didn't get a new connector. Simply but some female butt connectors that fit on the fan. Didn't vary much between speeds though.

Ryanstemarie

So is it worth trying a new climate control switch? Stock fan rather than aftermarket? Or should I rig in a whole new switch to control the blower motor?

Ryanstemarie

Run a new ground?

CCKen

You're all over the place. Slow down.

First, what kind of Volt/Ohmmeter are you using, a digital meter or an analog (non-digital) meter? Do you have a photo of it you can post here, or can you post a link to a web store that sells the one you have?

Here's an example of a link to a digital multimeter from Harbor Freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-92020.html

This is not the best you can buy but may be good enough for simple troubleshooting.

I just want to see what meter you are using so I could suggest what setting you should use for Ohms and DC Volts readings.

Ryanstemarie

http://m.radioshack.com/radioshack/p...goryId=&path=#

CCKen

I think you should start over by testing for voltage at the connectors you installed for/at the blower motor.

Disconnect your "new" connectors from the blower motor.

Unwrap the tape around the blower wires pigtail so you can see the wire colors.

The hot wire (12 volts power from the relay) is Dark Green.

The ground wire is Black with a TAN tracer.

First, set your meter to 20 Volts DC.

Next, measure the voltage of the battery directly off the battery posts. Record this voltage.

Then do the voltage check at the blower wires.

Connect you Voltmeter positive (+) red, lead to the Dark Green wire connector,

Connect the Voltmeter negative (-) black, lead to the Black/Tan tracer wire connector,

Set the mode selector at any setting besides OFF,

Set blower fan speed switch to #4 (High speed),

Turn ignition switch to RUN (do not start engine),

Read the voltage on the Voltmeter. You should see the battery voltage that you recorded earlier. If the voltage is not the same as the battery voltage - stop. Further troubleshooting is required, which doesn't mean running a new ground wire or trying a different blower.

If you see battery voltage, change the fan speed switch to #3 setting then check the voltage on the meter. Change to #2 setting then check voltage, change to #1 setting and check the voltage. Record the voltage readings at each fan speed setting.

Do these steps and get back with your recorded findings.

Ryanstemarie

Ok, so voltage at the battery pins was 12 volts, voltage at the blower motor connector was 10 volts. On all settings.

So we are losing power somewhere I'm guessing?

CCKen

A 2 volt drop. Yes, there is a resistance somewhere but I don't think its enough to prevent the blower from running.

Edit: Hope you have the correct blower resistor block for your year XJ.

Make sure you connect your connectors to the blower connector socket pins properly (see schematic blower connector pinout). Positive (Dark Green wire) to pin A, negative (Black/Tan tracer) to pin B, then try it again.

Edit: The blower connector pinout shown in the schematic is the harness connector, which is a mirror image of the pins in the blower motor.

Ryanstemarie

I've plugged and unplugged the connectors several times and never really get a response.

Could I run a power wire from the battery but still use the original ground wire for the fan. In theory (my own) I should still maintain control of the fan because the switch is on the ground wire side of the circuit.

You can call the idea crazy, but running battery to blower ground with the car in the on position gave me the proper voltage. I didn't test the other fan speeds though.

Edit: can you elaborate on the resistor block. Everything I changed out looked similar to the original one. Except the fan, which I'm guessing was someone's initial attempt to fix the motor.

autosurgeon

No please don't start running wires... That fan should run with 10 volts...

When you checked the voltage was it with the leads connected only to the blower connector? Or did you have the ground connected to the body elsewhere?

Ryanstemarie

Tested both, results were the same. And it doesn't in this case, trust me.

autosurgeon

Ok and you are sure this blower motor is good?

As I said a working blower motor will run at 10 volts albeit not at top speed.