It has a fuse on it, no?

 

Caps are just another load on the charging system. It's like putting a band aid on a leak in a submarine.

Also, any site that references watts as a way to figure out your charging needs is a joke.

Do your Big 3. Ground your system directly to the battery. If you are still flashing lights, get a bigger battery and then an alternator if you need to.

Also, I'd run the biggest cable I could afford.

 

Grounding to the battery is not recommended. Thats a ground loop and inducted noise waiting to happen.

Not to mention, the batteries negative is not ground, the cars chassis/frame is. Mind you negative is not the same as ground. The "ground" is a point of 0V reference where as you look at the chassis as a conductor, which IS a conductor as is any ground SYSTEM. The system is what gets people, yes the negative battery terminal in our case is part of the SYSTEM, just like the earth is part of a functional ground system for discharge. Calling the neg battery terminal ground (or positive) only names part of the big picture whereas when you look at the chassis and anything attached to it as the ground encompasses the whole thing. The chassis/frame is the physical ground.

Point of least resistance.

 

The car's chassis is not ground until it is connected to the battery. Please don't spread misinformation like this. I have been into big stereos (20-30K watts) since the early 90s.
When you get a car sponsored, and then have 15 more years experience after that, give me some advice.

Grounding to different points is what makes ground loops. When two or more devices are connected to a common ground through different paths, a ground loop occurs. The battery is THE common ground. The chassis is DIFFERENT PATHS.

 

And the battery - is not a ground until it has somewhere to release the electrons. The battery provides the electrons to make the chassis a ground. Hooking the Neg to the battery is only going to cause electrical noise, voltage drop, and loss of money for more parts. Its not anymore efficient than hooking it to the chassis.

Ive competed in NSPL, and Im MECP. Or maybe you want to email me at my night job, Im an advanced electronics engineer at Thorlabs three nights a week. Or maybe my day job as a ASE Technician and Mobile Audio Installer? I can measure my dick too, but my ruler is far more accurate than yours.

 

So you are an advanced Electronics Engineer that quotes DIY audio forums and doesn't understand floating grounds? My electronics education was about a million bucks and paid for by Uncle Sam. Yours?

 

For wiring look into Welding Wire to replace your battery cabling. at my shop here in town (welding shop) any "scrap" wire (which you can get up in the 40' length area) is free.

the reason it is "scrap" is it is cut off spools when they rewire welding guns for job sites need extra long wiring for the specific job and once they are done the shop has to put them back to normal lengths.

i got 2/0awg welding wiring to run from my GC alt to the power block, the power block to the battery, the battery to the starter and all of my grounds.

then I run 2awg from the battery to the amp.

again all was free so it is worth looking into.

 

Your saying the chassis is not a live floating ground?

I worked hard for mine, didnt allow anything to be handed to me, thats the lazy way out.

 

I LOVE LAMP.

 

I guess ill love lamp too.


Back on topic

 

Yep, enlisting for 6 years is definitely lazy.

The chassis can just as easily be positive. It's just a circuit.

This has been argued for years. If you don't believe my point of view I encourage you to check out some of the big boys. Ask Steve Meade if he is grounding to the chassis lol.

 

He grounded to 6 XS in parallel.

But this is not steve meade we're talking about. We are talking about someone with one amp, one battery, and minimal power. He is trying to gain the most power from it. The only thing youll get from hooking the ground to the battery in this case, is lost power and lost money.

And you keep avoiding answering my questions, fishy huh?

/conversation

 

If you're looking to upgrade the wiring (and you should be, especially adding a larger alternator), Kelley's Works in Progress (aka "5-90" on NAXJA) has some awesome cable sets he makes specific for Cherokees. Choice of #4 AWG or #1 AWG welding cable.

http://www.kelleyswip.com/electric.html

 

Nice move, waiting 3 days for a comeback. Was google down?

Anyways, "lost power" by eliminating all the BS and going straight to the battery. This I have GOT to hear. Seems you still don't get that the only thing he is grounded to otherwise is the skinny little stock wire that goes to the battery with a whole bunch of other crap mixed into the circuit between the amp and the battery.

And since he isn't Steve Meade, at what power level should he consider grounding to the battery, like the pros do?

 

This question? I didn't consider it a real question since it's the same thing I just said to you and another un-original thought on your part.

That said, you may want to refer to post 26 where I added to what you copied from me.