crystalion

I blew out a rear wheel cylinder and the steel line basically was frozen and twisted at the wheel cylinder. So I just picked up a replacement 18" seems like a good fit but now I need to make 2 -90 degree bends.

Its been a while since I have done one and don't want to kink it. I remember some spring that u put on it then bend it .

freegdr

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391367_0_0_

PolarXJ

Thats exactly what I was thinking.

I don't know if autozone has that tool in there rental section, but it would be worth a check.

crystalion

Just did the AZ loan a tool--thanx for reminding me . I was there this morn buying the line and didn't even think about the bending tool.

JCKustoms

Harbor freight has that exact bender for $5 I believe! Works perfect!

crystalion

Well the passenger brakeline just broke I could see right where it entered the fitting it was rotted away fairly good compared to any other place in the line.
Just took it down and its off to AZ once again -it looks to be about 45"-46" with about 20 different bends in it --was hoping it would be OK.

The driver side came out OK with the bender but the line I bought was about 2" to long so its not as nice as I would like it but looks good to go.

crystalion

Ok when I took the drums off both self-adjusters were on the rear shoes of the rear brakes. So basically on each side they are identical the way they are set up. I was reading some brake posts and they say --"remember its opposite on the other side".

Also the spring that is on the bar for the e-cable brake assembly at the top has a spring on one side that is coned. Basically it fits one of 2 ways --down on the bar (large side of spring on inside) or will sit way out on the bar and be practically collapsed ( smaller end put on bar first) when put in that way. Both springs on mine were broken and I can't find a pic or exploded view that deals with this spring. I put them on with the open ( bigger) side slid on the bar but it looks like the spring does jack that way.

freegdr

this help anyhttp://www.4x4xplor.com/drum-brakes.html

freegdr

this help its driver side

crystalion

Great link thanx-- I used to do drum brakes everyday back in the day and now feelin like a spazz. My brakes came out just like in the pics so I won't worry .

The nest question would be -since all the fluid was lost from the rear cylinder -the master was empty--when I go to bleed the brakes is there any special way--fronts first ? I have no bleeding tool so its gonna be -pump pump pump HOLD--OK--again.

TheJerm

I use a glass beer bottle to bend brake lines. It has all types of radius's you need

freegdr

they aint change much thru then years

freegdr

thats pretty smart idea,you drank it first so you did not spillit right lol

DaddyCat

You may need to bench bleed the master first if it did drain enough to allow air in. You can bench bleed with the master still installed but it's messy as hell. Better to remove the master and bench bleed it. Most of the time you want to then bleed the farthest brake 1st, i.e. pass rear, drivers rear, pass front, drivers front.

crystalion

Ok the brakes are done and I bled til I had a nice stream from all 4 BUT the dash is still showing the red brake problem light which from what I quickly read was either low fluid or pressure. Should the light go out by itself ? Or do I have an air pocket still in the master that it is seeing. I remember I made 2 fittings with line some time ago with an almost 360 degree bend in them. I threaded them into the master out ports and the 2 lines went right back into the master for bleeding. They were about 6-8" when I made them. This way the fluid was always pouring back into the master.

Is this what I'm looking at ? OR