Plain and simple, my rear springs are shot to ****. I need to do something about them but I don't have a lot of money at the moment so I'm trying to go with the least expensive option.
My main concern and the question I want to ask y'all is, would an add-a-leaf kit be sufficient to correct weak springs, or is that putting make up on a pig?
If I went with a AAL kit, I could get a good price from Rusty's and it would be cheaper than anything else I could do. Would that work?
My main concern and the question I want to ask y'all is, would an add-a-leaf kit be sufficient to correct weak springs, or is that putting make up on a pig?
If I went with a AAL kit, I could get a good price from Rusty's and it would be cheaper than anything else I could do. Would that work?
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downs
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- Join DateOct 2018
- LocationHunt County Texas
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- Year1995
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Quote:
My main concern and the question I want to ask y'all is, would an add-a-leaf kit be sufficient to correct weak springs, or is that putting make up on a pig?
If I went with a AAL kit, I could get a good price from Rusty's and it would be cheaper than anything else I could do. Would that work?
just spend the money on a full set all an add a leaf is going to do is bandaid the problem and you'll be back to where you are within a year possibly in worse shape. If you are at stock height replacement springs aren't that expensive Originally Posted by burkett.j
Plain and simple, my rear springs are shot to ****. I need to do something about them but I don't have a lot of money at the moment so I'm trying to go with the least expensive option.My main concern and the question I want to ask y'all is, would an add-a-leaf kit be sufficient to correct weak springs, or is that putting make up on a pig?
If I went with a AAL kit, I could get a good price from Rusty's and it would be cheaper than anything else I could do. Would that work?
IMO Crown springs are an excellent buy. However, when you start taking stuff apart a few things may also need replacement (like bushings, bolts, shackles) or you may need to tool up a little (to get those front bolts out, which can be a real pain if you don't have the right tools).
CF Veteran
Dave is right on the tools. I replaced the leafs and shackles on my 98 and used quite a few tools
Oxy propane torch
sockets and breaker bar and ratchet
grinder with 6 inch and 4 inch cutoff wheel
welder
wire wheel on a drill
Oxy propane torch
sockets and breaker bar and ratchet
grinder with 6 inch and 4 inch cutoff wheel
welder
wire wheel on a drill
BlueRidgeMark
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- Year1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Add a leaf is not what you want to do. Either do it right with new springs, or, if you are really strapped for cash, you can add a leaf spring helper to get you by for a while. I ran these for about a year on mine, then replaced the springs properly. They got me by, but they are NOT a long term solution.
Something like this:
I think I paid about 20 bucks at Pep Boys, and the installation was brain-dead easy.
Something like this:
I think I paid about 20 bucks at Pep Boys, and the installation was brain-dead easy.
Quote:
100% ^^^ THIS....Originally Posted by downs
just spend the money on a full set all an add a leaf is going to do is bandaid the problem and you'll be back to where you are within a year possibly in worse shape. If you are at stock height replacement springs aren't that expensive
I had the same problem with my 20 year old original ones and went with a quality HD full leaf spring replacement from quadratec last Spring...good price and couldn't be happier. They settled well, and had enough arch compared to my worn out ones that even with minor shackle adjustments worked perfect for my mild 2" lift. I put on at the same time with new longer shocks, etc....
Senior Member
If you do anything yourself with the leaf springs start about 2 weeks ahead with penetrating fluid on the bolts at each end of the springs. You need to get it on the nut end, which you cannot see on the front spring mount or the upper shackle bolt. There are a few small gaps and openings in the frame section where the nut is welded in. Try to get the penetrating fluid on the nut and bolt threads at the nut. Also soak where the bolt goes through the bushings as sometimes the bolt rusts to the bushing sleeve. If you decide to do this post back here for more helpful tips. I just did mine and did not break a bolt or tear out a nut.
awg
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I have changed a few sets, and spray a mix of used ATF/turps into the chassis and all over the bolts several weeks beforehand, using a long nozzle spray gun
Never needed heat, or busted any nuts, they were very sagged, so original too..did need 3/4" drive gear
You can make a "bastard" pack using a leaf out of a wrecker set, but I agree buying new ones would be better (and nearly as cheap)
Never needed heat, or busted any nuts, they were very sagged, so original too..did need 3/4" drive gear
You can make a "bastard" pack using a leaf out of a wrecker set, but I agree buying new ones would be better (and nearly as cheap)
Seasoned Member
Quote:
My main concern and the question I want to ask y'all is, would an add-a-leaf kit be sufficient to correct weak springs, or is that putting make up on a pig?
If I went with a AAL kit, I could get a good price from Rusty's and it would be cheaper than anything else I could do. Would that work?
If you can do it yourself, you are looking a little less than $300.00 for two new leaf spring assemblies, main eye & shackle bushings, U-bolts, potential main eye & shackle bolts. I would strongly recommend going this route as opposed to putting make up on a pig.Originally Posted by burkett.j
Plain and simple, my rear springs are shot to ****. I need to do something about them but I don't have a lot of money at the moment so I'm trying to go with the least expensive option.My main concern and the question I want to ask y'all is, would an add-a-leaf kit be sufficient to correct weak springs, or is that putting make up on a pig?
If I went with a AAL kit, I could get a good price from Rusty's and it would be cheaper than anything else I could do. Would that work?
https://www.quadratec.com/vehicle/19...n/leaf-springs
If you look around more, you might find something a little cheaper.
CF Veteran
With a set of the Dorman springs the proper u-bolts and new hardware he'd have ~$190. Of course that to may be out of his price range.
or
Hardware from here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f74/fu...e-kits-248156/
or
Hardware from here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f74/fu...e-kits-248156/
Senior Member
Note: the proper leaf spring and shackle mount bolts are available from Chrysler. I highly recommend these as they have the correct thread, head, length and strength. They also have the proper thread locking material at the end where it goes into the bolt. You can find these on line or from a local Chrysler dealer. Find an on-line price and ask if your local dealer will match. Usually they will get close on price and there is no shipping charge. OE part number 34202118, size M14x2.0x120
Senior Member
You could probably get buy with a cheaper solution, but for the money that an add a leaf would cost, plus time and effort, just replace the springs. I'm assuming you can do the work yourself since you mention doing an add a leaf. A set of helper springs may work for a little while, but they will eventually cease to work and may even cause a failure that would necessitate a larger expense (towing, etc)
Newbie
I recently replaced the sagging rear leaf springs on my 2001 Cherokee sport - from CL of hub to fender base was 16 inches. I used the General Spring HD set and now from CL of hub to base of fender is 19 1/2 inches. I ended up with a 2 inch lift. Now I am in the process of replacing my front springs to level it out.




