Yea, Dude, Chuck, 90 and who-all I forgot. I'm remote, (OK 1/2 hr to town). My only other "wheels" is my Honda 750. Yea, I could rip it out for a WJ booster, and start learning about double flairs, adapting the XJ metric to that, machine the hole for the pin in the petal, flatten the end of the rod for the xj brake-light switch. Doable, preferably in the spring.

I totally understand, it took me a year to finally be able to get mine swapped over. If you've got a dealership near you what I'd try is print off recall, take in in there and stand your ground if they try and give you the run around. I'm sure eventually they'll budge considering the consequences of not honoring the lifetime warranty on a recall.

OK, I got something on the intermittent pump. It has normally been coming on, but sometimes after parking hot it quits. It was all there in the diagrams, schematics and such, but hey, this thing is tough to "wrap your head around".

I was just going through the wiring connections and the relay sockets. The SPST relay for the pump...has 4 blades, and 30 and 87 are MONGO, large. So....while prying the relay from it's socket on the pump harness with a screwdriver, I accidentally arc 30 to 86, and the pump comes on.

30 always has power, 85 is always grounded I think, so when I contacted 30 to 86, it shot power out 87. In the second photo the 87 is in the shade, not visible.

So it turns out this is a pretty simple, isolated circuit. It seems that 85 is grounded and 30 has power. Power to 86 comes right from the external pressure switch on the pump. So now the question is, is the switch getting power. It's powered with ign. on, as well as the D4 socket on the ABS ECU. I verified that both D4, and later the smaller red wire at the switch were getting power, while the pump was failing to run.

I didn't get a pic, but the four wire plug to the pump has a pair of larger red and black, and a pair of smaller red and black. The smaller are for the switch, connected right there to the 86 on the relay.

SO TO END THIS SEGMENT, TONIGHT, JUST NOW, I "COOLED", THE EXTERNAL SWITCH ON THE ABS PUMP WITH A GARDEN HOSE, AND IT STARTED PUMPING. The switch is bad. (it was hot from the engine compartment, not from running)

Now the "actuator" (master cylinder), and the propositioning valve, failure to bleed the (New) rears, (after it came with a blown rear cylinder and the prop valve tripped).

This is so much fun. I finally got the rears to "bleed" I pulled the prop. valve and plugged a tube on the bottom-out line, applied my home made "seal-a meal" vacuum bleeder and actually got both rears bled. (only 7 weeks or so)

First pic is the lower line, which politely held fluid right up top while I re-installed the prop valve. Second is my feed for the vacuum bleed.

*

The prop valve resets with a stab, all lines are bled as far as I am capable. Nothing leaks. But it will still trip the prop valve. Patel catches high with a quick stab, but fades with moderate/less pressure.

Here's the remaining question, beyond my knowledge. If the primary, or some cup in the "actuator", (AKA master cylinder), is shot, couldn't that trip the proportioning valve? When I approach the service manager at the dealer, I want to be positive I do indeed, have this straight.

Yep. Might be the only warning you get the MC has one circuit failed.

OK Radi, I'm "taking that to the bank". I was pretty sure, but I wanted to be double sure before I go to the dealer.

One actuator, one pressure switch. Check. Good luck!

Update. It seems now with the actuator, (Master Cyl), primed, it's "waking up". I'm thinking when to PO had a wheel cylinder go, he attributed the problem to the Bendix 9 system, and just ran it with the rears dry. Idk if it was gummy or rusting, but the master started almost working OK, a week or so after vacuum priming the rears directly from the line at the prop valve. Use might be getting the cup in the master to grab. (Jury is still out there but I drove most of today with great brakes, and no lights! ) I went down my hill today in drive and the rear drums were plenty toasty at the bottom. (it's plenty of hill)

It might be that now the pressure switch on the pump is my last issue. The FSM states the pump operating range from 1,650 to 2,050 Lbs. I'm making an assumption the switch relates to those #'s. I notice it seems to screw in, then is locked with a nut. I also see a rubber boot that seems to cover holes into the switch. I've seen plenty of other pressure switches that need access to ambient air pressure to gauge what they are doing. (granted, our 14.7 compared to 2,000 aint' much), but first I'm just going to take a shot at cleaning it's ports, before I actually try to remove it and see if I can tell what's wrong.

This pic is with the boot pulled up, showing the ports and the "locknut"

After a short bit of research I decided to only hit that with dish soap, (w/water and nylon brush) No silicone, lithium grease or WD or PB. Then I hit it with compressed air...When I probe with a dental pic, it seems there is something there, like a cylinder. (nothing like a passage that I found). Now I'm wondering if that long switch has a spring and a piston, and the reason for the lock-nut is you screw it in to get the correct pressure range. All those holes under the boot might be for grease for a piston that activates/de-activates the pump switch. Btw, after quitting on my town trip today, it came on about 1/2 an hr after I messed with it. Also Btw, I timed it's run from (presumably), zero pressure. 1-1/2 mins to come up and turn off.

Don't forget to bleed the pressure down by stomping the brakes 40-50X before unscrewing that switch!
Nice work, BTW. You have more perseverance than me. I'd have ripped it all out.

Haha. Hey I got to admit, I've never had ABS before, it's sort of neat!

I hit the switch, (boot slid up), with soapy water and compressed air. Then (about 16 hrs later), worrying about what water in there might do I hit it "easy" with airisol liquid wrench. (figuring, hey, it's under the hood, it shouldn't be too petroleum sensitive). Left that overnight. Then this AM gave it a quick rinse with quick start. (couldn't find the ele. cleaner). I let that dry then put the boot back. (there is no 1-800 # for B-9 ABS pressure switch help!) I did find it's not listed as a separate part, comes with the #5200-3297, pump.

Seems to work! Now with ign on, if I hit the brake twice it comes on for about ten seconds. Time will tell, it was intermittent before, but I never noticed it being so responsive......