theangler

I'm swapping the ****ty old bendix 9 abs system out of my '91 laredo for a standard vac system out of a '94.

The pump keeps running which is allegedly the first sign of failure on the bendix 9. So, I figured while I've got my parts car still in the driveway, time to swap.

Earlier, I pulled the brake booster, master cylinder, prop valve, and brake pedal (in case) out of the '94. Tomorrow after work I'll start yanking out the junk from the bendix 9 on my '91.

The only real trouble that I foresee is the brake lines, and possibly relocating the washer bottle / pumps.

With this bendix 9 being a super high pressure system, how do I de-pressurize it before I start yanking parts? Also, how has anyone else setup the brake lines doing this swap? Do I make up some adapters to run from the master cylinder over to the passenger side lines coming out of that bendix component? Do I buy bulk brake lines and run them all new from the master cylinder? Buy sections of made lines and bend as needed or look for pre made brake lines w/ fittings?

Just looking for some advice. I will try to take some photos and possible make a write up (I always get impatient w/ picture taking on a project)

Any help / advice is appreciated! Cheers!

theangler

Anybody? I wanna get on this! It's starting to get cold in Maine!!

theangler

Could you guys try to keep this thread up in the lineup so that someone who has crossed paths with this issue may come across the thread tonight or tomorrow?

THANKS!

theangler

bump

98jeepsrt6

Dont know much about your situation, but for now it would be your personal preference. If i was in your situation i would go ahead a make new lines this way i now everything will work properly and not having to many adapters. If you can get your hands are the lines i say make you own, but if money is a factor then making adapters would be next best thing.. Also you do have a cherokee so if you have a local JY i would go there and search, maybe can get the entire set. And for depressurizing not familiar with that system, but bleed the lines i guess and that should help..

Good luck with your conversion, i would like to see how it comes out..

wildspear

Never worked on brakes to the extent your planning on but, are you able to use any of the lines off your parts jeep? If funds are available and you got the time having new lines would be the best bet.

captainwoot

To depressurize the system, key off pump the brake pedal untill it is hard (manual say fifty times). Then go ahead and do your swap, I would make all new lines in a case like this, then when you are done you know exactly what you have....
Good luck!

theangler

Thanks everyone. The lines on the parts rig are in no condition to be reused. I'll probaby end up making new lines, but I'll see once I start pulling all the junk out. I've got a double flaring tool, bender, line, cutter, fittings, etc at my folk's house 2 1/2 hours drive away of course. I could though, I suppose, buy some more bulk line and get that all bent and in place, I'll just have to put on fittings, flare and attach later when I get the tools. I really hope that all the fittings come loose for me on the claipers, axle coupling block, and bleeders.

Do you guys know what size line I should use?

Thanks again!

98jeepsrt6

I would say stick with factory size but you should be fine with a slightly larger line..

mmattern1985

i just did a swap on my jeep yesterday its actually fairly simple i didnt need to flare any ends or anything i just boought some new brake lines for the front and use the same back line. i pulled a power booster out of the junk yard and got a remaned master cylinder and i also got the prop valve from the junk yard but i dont see why u cant use the one that is already on there from the old system. i juust pulled all the junk off for the abs system replaced the two front hard brake lines. the one thing i thought i would have trouble with is the brake light switch but it was really simple to. i have some good info on that would take some pictures and explaining if u need help with that. i didnt have to cut any wires or anything i didnt have to change the brake peddal even

theangler

I'd love to see some pictures of what you ran into... So did you make up new brake lines for the front? or find them prebent and fitted somewhere? It's raining today so I'm not getting much done yet. I'll start pulling and swap tomorrow hopefully. Oh and what size brake line did you get?

Cheers!

mmattern1985

i just got the flexable brake lines and bent them to what i needed. i just use the same size lines that came off. i replaced the two front ones because the fittings that screw into the prop valve are different but the back has a reducer right as it comes up into the engine compartment so i just used one of the short pieces i took off that had the fittings that i needed and reused it. the brake light switch was different on mine the old one is mounted on the pedal rod and the one that i had to use is mounted under the dash. i had to modify the switch because it worked backwards.

bigtuna

did this about three mos. ago to my daughters jeep. pretty much straight forward. disconnect battery cable pump the brake pedal down at least 50 times, start taking it apart. i went to auto zone and rented the flaring tool, actually its free u just leave a deposit, ive never double flared lines before but it was actually pretty simple, no leaks, when hopefully you marked the prop. valve from the one you pulled to tell u where to put the lines into, because the one u got and the one you are putting are way diff. i used a system from a 95 with a big looking booster and that was exact fit rod went exactly same position to the brake pedal. the only thing i had to do was reposition the washer fluid tank about 1" forward to make room for the bigger booster, i dont have any pics. but u take your time and you can do it as well good luck

theangler

So I got the system swapped yesterday. I did, as suggested, pump the brakes about 50 times with the key off and then started disconnecting everything. The booster / master / brake pedal lined right up. I ended up using the old lines (cut off old fittings), put on the new fittings, flared, and bent to match up to the prop valve. I still need to bleed the system out, but the brakes are working.

Thanks for all the help!

flashpoint83

I know this is a old post, but can someone post some pictures. I am looking into doing this conversion and any help would be helpful!