After wheeling my buddys right front tire was looking like that. turned out on his XJ the wheel bearing hub assy was loose and the front axle shaft nut loosened up. the two caused just about the same look as yours. it didnt help he used CHINA white box bearings instead of a good brand.
i guess something to check that doesnt cost anything .

 

I will try to get some measurements tomorrow. My tools are sorta burried atm. Converting part of my garage to a kids play room so I had to pile everything on th eother side. Which won't change much until after the room is done and I can get out and build the shop in the back yard. uhg.....Jeep is parked atm till I have time to work on it again..

 

okay no rush. just if you can.

Thanks!

 

wow i have been reading this thread and i guarantee you that the ball joint would not cause that much bend. i will also measure my jeep c's tomorrow for a second opinion. but i guarantee you that they are bent. i am sure you can pick up a fully assembled Dana 30 from the junkyard for like $200. especially since you have stock gearing it will not be a problem at all

 

the front axle yokes or "c" are bent. seen it alot bad problem on the new dana44s outta on rubicons and such too. take less than u think to bend them. either find another axle. once u replace it have them gusseted its easy if u have fab tools some material and a welder or take it to a 4wd or fab shop and have it done, my family owns a 4wd shop and we charge about $90 to gusset the yokes. just a lil extra insurance.

 

I have a guy measuring his outer c's to confirm. However.... I think it may just be that the ball joints on the drivers side are SO bad that it is causing that wheel to flare out at the bottom causing the axle to sink on that side which is making the other wheel look bent in as well. once i get the angles off a stock axle i can confirm this tho.

If it is bent and it is only by a degree or two it can be corrected with ball joints. Which is what i will do. and then gusset like you said. I have the control arm mounts gusseted. But axles around here are hard to find and they are expensive.... like $250....

so i can spend $80 on all 4 ball joints (alljeep.com) if the C's are not bent. and then get new wheel bearings for around the same price as a JY axle that may have shotty parts

 

im in az too i know its bit of a drive from gilbert but there is a jeep salvage yard called amc salvage out on the west side all they do is jeeps. jus for future reference if you cant find parts.

 

Yeah i know. i went to highschool in gilbert and i normally stay the summers at my parents house. But now that i own my own house here in NM i dont know how much i will make it home.

Apache auto salvage sells axles for like $100-$125. AMC is a little more expensive. and there is i think 8 jeeps sitting in the pick n pull off of kyrene and the new 202 area.


and btw. it is a 6 hour 377 mile drive from las cruces nm to gilbert az lol. i can do it in under six but i usually am towing a trailer

 

yea thats a treck haha i guess i should have read the other part of your location haha.

 

took some degree readings tonight.... its throwing me thru a big loop.....

I zero'd out the axle.....

then i took a reading on the bottom of the c's (the flat part) they matched at 0* to .5*

then i took a reading on the top of the ball joint (after cleaning it of grease/dirt) driver side was -77.5* (12.5* negative) passenger side was -75*(15* negative)

Then i took a reading on the axle nut (this is where things get really trippy) both measured in at 90* on the button

Then i took a reading on the Unit bearing surface Drivers side measured 1* passenger side measured 5* ......

Hmmm I am really wondering what the heck is up!!!

 

lower ball joints in the video

 

On the drivers side both are shot. on the passenger side (the bad side i guess) the ball joints and solid.

 

I will probably pull the shafts and knock off the knuckles then measure the C's like so:

(blue line)

 

heres a pic looks pretty close to me

 

yeah i have that same picture... I just need hard degree readings so i can the proper adjustable ball joints to compensate