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Been a while... need help ASAP, Brake issue.

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Old May 23, 2014 | 07:47 PM
  #1  
WaY_WeiRd's Avatar
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From: Detroit, MI
Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0 i6
Default Been a while... need help ASAP, Brake issue.

Hey guys, been a while.

Got a problem. 2000 cherokee sport.

Got in the truck to drive home from work, hopped on the freeway... Brake light goes on.

Pulled off into a gas station, checked brake fluid. Bone dry in reservoir.

Checked around all wheels for leaks, didn't immediately notice any.

Brake pressure is pretty normal far as i can tell though.

It's stopping just fine, pedal does not go to the floor.

I know you're not supposed to, but i added brake fluid to the full line, and tried pumping the brakes in reverse. Did nothing. Light still on.

Towed it home. Checked further around reservoir, master cyl, and booster. Has a bit of moisture (tiny bit) from between the master cyl and booster.

What gives?

Where did all my fluid go, and what caused the light to trigger?
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Old May 23, 2014 | 08:02 PM
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Turbo X_J's Avatar
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From: ☼ Blackhole Sun
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Master cylinder piston seal is gone, it's leaking brake fluid into the vacuum booster, replace the master cylinder.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 08:08 PM
  #3  
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Mmm Kay. That's what i thought. Light will go out after the master cylinder is replaced and the lines are bled right? Anything else i should know?
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Old May 24, 2014 | 12:57 AM
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Bench bleed the new M/C before installing it. Might have to stomp the pedal hard a few times to re-center the differential pressure switch to turn the warning light off.
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Old May 24, 2014 | 05:48 AM
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From: Monett, MO.
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^^YUP what they said^^
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Old May 24, 2014 | 07:42 AM
  #6  
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
Master cylinder piston seal is gone, it's leaking brake fluid into the vacuum booster, replace the master cylinder.
And booster fluid will eat up rubber diaphragms ...
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Old May 24, 2014 | 07:54 AM
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EZEARL's Avatar
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Had the same problem on my '78 Power Wagon yrs back. Problem was caused by water getting in between the m/c and booster causing the rod to pit and eat the seal. Found a new seal but before I put it back together I smoothed the rod and made a gasket to go between the two units. Never had another problem. It's not a common problem by a long shot but it does happen.
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Old May 24, 2014 | 04:39 PM
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WaY_WeiRd's Avatar
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From: Detroit, MI
Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0 i6
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The proportioning valve was stuck open from the fluid running out, and looks like the mc is def leaking from between the reservoir and mc. There is a small amount where the mc and booster meet up, but seems like not where all the fluid went.

Replacing the mc right now. Got the light to go out already though by bleeding the system and stomping the pedal and holding it until it clicked .
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Old May 24, 2014 | 04:52 PM
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DFlintstone's Avatar
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Just curious, did you actually hear/feel it click?
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Old May 24, 2014 | 04:54 PM
  #10  
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You kind of feel it in the pedal, and hear it. Like a pop of air.
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Old May 24, 2014 | 04:57 PM
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Thanks!
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