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Ball joints procedure

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Old May 9, 2013 | 09:07 PM
  #16  
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My advice is not to try to bang em out. Go to autozone, rent a ball joint press and save yourself a lot of effort and busted knuckles. I just replaced my uppers and lowers last week and it took about 2 hours with the press and taking my time. P.S. don't be surprised when they finally give and you hear a shotgun blast and see sparks lol.
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Old May 9, 2013 | 09:22 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 1996sportXJ
Yes you need to open the differential to drain the fluid. And yes you *could* damage the seal if you aren't careful putting the shaft back in ( ).

It's amazing, I searched "how to replace ball joints on a Dana 30" on Google and came up with many fantastic results. Here is one good one. But you should try doing that yourself.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/ball...alljoint-1.htm
The Dana 30 is non c clip. You do not need to open the diff.
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Old May 9, 2013 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jamorrowxj
My advice is not to try to bang em out. Go to autozone, rent a ball joint press and save yourself a lot of effort and busted knuckles. I just replaced my uppers and lowers last week and it took about 2 hours with the press and taking my time. P.S. don't be surprised when they finally give and you hear a shotgun blast and see sparks lol.
Why do they do that? Are they under pressure?
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Old May 9, 2013 | 09:24 PM
  #19  
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Is Alloy USA a good brand? I see a set of four ball joints on eBay for 180 bucks, it say its hardened steel and designed for lifted jeeps
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Old May 9, 2013 | 09:32 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders

Why do they do that? Are they under pressure?
They seize in there and it takes a lot of pressure to pop them out.
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Old May 9, 2013 | 10:00 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Is Alloy USA a good brand? I see a set of four ball joints on eBay for 180 bucks, it say its hardened steel and designed for lifted jeeps
No. Not a good deal. They're a good brand but that's not worth it.

Go to seriousoffroadproducts.com and buy 2 sets of the Spicer ball joints. It'll be a little over $100 shipped. Great price and probably best quality out there
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Old May 9, 2013 | 10:27 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 1996sportXJ

No. Not a good deal. They're a good brand but that's not worth it.

Go to seriousoffroadproducts.com and buy 2 sets of the Spicer ball joints. It'll be a little over $100 shipped. Great price and probably best quality out there
I thought spicer was at bottom of the ladder when it come to quality?
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Old May 9, 2013 | 10:29 PM
  #23  
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Sorry to get off the point, I was reading about doing the WJ knuckle conversion. I'm little lost, will it fit on the xj axle with same ball joints? Or do I have to cut off the whole thing from the axle and weld it on the xj axle?
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Old May 9, 2013 | 10:54 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
I thought spicer was at bottom of the ladder when it come to quality?
Nope, Look at how long your OEM Spicer joints have lasted.

Wanna step up to a heavy duty joint?
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...J-YJ-XJ-ZJ-4PC
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Old May 10, 2013 | 10:52 PM
  #25  
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Don't use the cheapy balljoints Advance auto sells, spend some extra bucks and buy some Moog Balljoints They are pricey 79 bucks at Advance.But I found them for $40 on amazon
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Old May 10, 2013 | 11:26 PM
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I got my ball joints from rockauto.com they were sold in sets, 1 upper and 1 lower per set. I also got a track bar and the total was under $160.

They were not cheapie Ball joints but also not top of the line. Check them out for great pricing.

Just checked they are Dana Spicer ball joints and they were $51 and change for a set.

Last edited by dBusteR; May 10, 2013 at 11:29 PM.
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Old May 10, 2013 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dBusteR
I got my ball joints from rockauto.com they were sold in sets, 1 upper and 1 lower per set. I also got a track bar and the total was under $160.

They were not cheapie Ball joints but also not top of the line. Check them out for great pricing.
I was just gonna suggest that site. They have moogs for $30 a piece. Also, they have great customer service. I ordered some brake pads that were in the XJ section but are actually for an FSJ. They gave me a refund and let me keep them. They're for sale btw
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Old May 12, 2013 | 10:46 AM
  #28  
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I jacked up the axle on one side, inserted the prybar between floor and tire and keep pushing it, the ball joints seem to not be budging. Then repeated on other side. Both seem fine, is there any other way to check ball joints?
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Old May 12, 2013 | 08:52 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
I jacked up the axle on one side, inserted the prybar between floor and tire and keep pushing it, the ball joints seem to not be budging. Then repeated on other side. Both seem fine, is there any other way to check ball joints?
With my case I had quite a bit of free play in the steering, weird free play that is to where I would turn one way then it would go and then turning back the other way it would go a bit then turn. Weird free play
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Old May 14, 2013 | 07:55 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by macgyver35
I'm probably going to need to do this soon. Not really something I'm looking forward to. Of course, anything that might require a BFH is not on my "fun crap to do" list. But even with new drag link, tie rods, and a fresh alignment right when I bought new tires, I still have some abnormal wear on the front. Kind of a "feathering" of the treadblocks. I've heard that adjustable ball joints will fix this. Anyone tried them yet?
3 quick easy ways to check ball joints. Lift the front axle so tires are off the ground. Test 1 grab ahold of the tire at the 6 oclock and 12 oclock positions. Rock back and forth and feel for looseness. If no play you passed. Of you do have play there may be a hub checking out or ball joints. After that you can take a large pry bar and place it above the lower ball joint and the axle. With a little effort pry down on the ball joint if there is any play you will see It in up and down movement. It will be slight but you'll see it good lighting is key. Third final way is to use large channel locks go from the bottom of the ball joint stud to the top of the ball joint body. And squeeze. This is also an effective way to check steering ends. Hope this helps
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