1991Jeep_Man

I was drivin my XJ to work one day (hot, about 90*) and my brake pedal became stiff and did not want to go down properly, and the left-front wheel wasn't releasing, pullin me left. After work and today, she drove all nice and happy. Would a bad caliper cause this? And if so, should I replace both calipers and brake pads?

caged

usually if the pedal goes hard, it's the vac hose on the booster to the manifold.

but the pulling would be a caliper seizing up. usually if it pulls to the left, it's the right caliper seized open.

start by checking the vac hose, then pull the calipers off and grease the slide pins. if that doesn't do it, it could be the piston seized and easier to replace the calipers.

Bustedback

Is this a 91 with ABS? If so, I bet your ABS booster is starting to fail. It was a very bad system and very hard to find GOOD replacement parts for. They were such a problem and had so many recalls , Chrysler only used that setup for a couple of years. You can convert it to a vacuum booster system for the cost of repairing the junk ABS system. My guess would be for the hard pedal is that the motor that builds pressure in the accumulator is going bad, or has a bad electrical connection.

1991Jeep_Man

I am leaning towards just replacing the calipers. They're stock, meaning almost 20 years old. They look a bit rusted on the outside, so maybe it will be better to replace them. And I know it was the left wheel seizing because when I parked I looked at the rotor.. sure enough it was smoking. Also, would the caliper alone cause the brake petal stiffening? If not, then where is this hose and how do I check it?

1991Jeep_Man

bump

1991Jeep_Man

bump

offroadnut36

That might be the cause. Yes, if you replace one side of the brakes you must replace the other side at the same time. Is the brake issue still happening? If not then the piston might have freed itself.

caged

ok, it's not really a must, but it is highly recommended to replace both calipers at the same time. and by the sound of it, you should replace them anyways.
however, if you have the ABS system in your jeep, you won't have the booster hose.
if no ABS, then the hose goes from the brake booster to the intake manifold. black hose about an inch in diameter.

1991Jeep_Man

I don't think I have ABS. I never really feel a pulsing or vibration when braking, plus I have the whole big black thing behind the brake fluid resovoir (im not tech savy, but I assume this big black thing is the booster?) Also, so far no other braking issues, however it does seem to want and try to catch.. I never really have a stiff pedal, but it seems to want to hesitate for a fraction of a second. This didn't happen until I drove in the heat and the engine was wanting to run warm (not red, but near the last white line.. Im replacing my stock e-fan with a '97 fan for better cfm and I want to switch the relay to switch on at about 211*) Would the heat have caused the failure of old calipers? And after I find the hose, do I just look at it for cracks or holes or such?

offroadnut36

fixed

caged

yes, it is highly recommended. but, if only one is seized and the other functions perfectly fine, you can get away with even a junk yard replacement.

but if funds can afford it, replace both with remans. they are only about 30 bucks each anyways.


now get-r-dun

tiwvr1

Guys, I work in a shop, it is almost NEVER a caliper issue. The only caliper issues I see is leaking around the piston. 9 times out of 10 it is a rubber hose. Take the wheels off and try to push piston of caliper in. If it is hard, crack the bleeder lose and try again. If the piston is easy to push in then it is a hose. If it is hard to push in still then it is a caliper

mcnslayer

Before you just throw parts at it get a buddy have them press down on the brakes and try to bleed the lines if you cant get a big jet of fluid from one side it could be your brake hose on the side that dosnt squirt out

mcnslayer

Couldnt have said it any better



srry for the repeat of your post didnt read the hole page b4 i posted