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AW4 torque converter install help

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Old Oct 19, 2025 | 06:08 PM
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Default AW4 torque converter install help

So, I already installed the converter, and the engine back to the transmission……. :/
After doing so, I started questioning my torque converter install.

TC: torque converter
FSM: factory service manual

I followed the FSM instructions which said make sure the TC mounting pad (the 4 squares on TC that the flexplate bolts to); the TC mounting pad and bell housing flange distance is 16.5mm. I did that, I believe the TC shifted twice into the pump, and got the 16.5mm gap. Out of curiosity, I tried pushing and twisting it in more and it actually did, all the way down to the bell housing. It was so in there that when i rotated the TC it was actually scraping a little bit. I measured the distance again and I believe it was now at 28mm, maybe more. So I pulled it out, to get it back to the FSM instructed 16.5mm. Then install the engine.

For what it’s worth, the engine mated to the transmission very nicely. The engine sat against the transmission, I got the bolts started by hand, I dropped the engine down more and it lined up flush with transmission and I torqued the bolts. I have not checked the torque converter to see if it’s rotating freely and haven’t installed the bolts yet.

I’m concerned if I should have left the TC pushed down all the way, as I’ve seen videos and read it needs to be pushed in ALL the way. If that’s the case then I don’t understand why the FSM says measure the distance and it’s good to go.

What am I missing here?
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Old Oct 19, 2025 | 07:06 PM
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You did it right. The FSM is correct. That 16.5mm gap is critical. If you push it all the way in until it scrapes, you have bottomed out the converter and it is no longer fully engaged with the transmission pump. This will destroy the pump as soon as you start the engine.

The gap ensures the converter is properly seated on the pump gears and has room to move. Since your engine mated to the transmission perfectly, you confirmed it was installed correctly. Just make sure the converter spins freely by hand and doesn't pull away from the flexplate when you bolt it up.
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Old Oct 19, 2025 | 07:13 PM
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You're good to go. The depth spec is to ensure you have it engaged on both sets of splines. If you don't and bolt it up, you can damage the pump. You should normally have to pull it back forward a little to bolt it up to the flexplate.
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Old Oct 19, 2025 | 10:59 PM
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Thank you both for the above relies, that's good to know. This subject, theory, whatever we'll call it, is just a little confusing to me. I unfortunately wasn't paying attention at automotive trade school when the transmission professor said, "There's a wrong way to install a torque converter." That's haunted me for years because I remember him saying that and I didn't get to hear his explanation.

So, a flexplate bolts stationary to the crankshaft and the oil pump bolts stationary to the transmission case. My confusion, is if the torque converter gets bolted to a stationary flexplate, it's going to have a "preset" depth, in theory. If that is the matter, why can't someone for example, push the TC all the way onto the pump, bolt the trans and engine together, then pry the TC forward onto the flexplate surface and bolt it down? It wouldn't give the same results? Wouldn't it line up with the two sets of splines mentioned?
If anyone can elaborate and try to give a better understanding Id appreciate it.
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Old Oct 19, 2025 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Roberto145
You did it right. The FSM is correct. That 16.5mm gap is critical. If you push it allDo the way in until it scrapes, you have bottomed out the converter and it is no longer fully engaged with the transmission pump. This will destroy the pump as soon as you start the engine.

The gap ensures the converter is properly seated on the pump gears and has room to move. Since your engine mated to the transmission perfectly, you confirmed it was installed correctly. Just make sure the converter spins freely by hand and doesn't pull away from the flexplate when you bolt it up.
Do you mean, make sure the flexplate does not easily slide away when trying to install bolts? It should stay still and freely slide backwards?
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Old Oct 19, 2025 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000XJmoredoor
My confusion, is if the torque converter gets bolted to a stationary flexplate, it's going to have a "preset" depth, in theory. If that is the matter, why can't someone for example, push the TC all the way onto the pump, bolt the trans and engine together, then pry the TC forward onto the flexplate surface and bolt it down? It wouldn't give the same results? Wouldn't it line up with the two sets of splines mentioned?
Yes, that's exactly what needs to happen. The t/c is free to slide in a little further and gets pulled back out a little when you bolt it up. There are two sets of spline in there as you slide it on. If you don't get the second set of splines that drive the oil pump lined up and slid together, it will put force on the oil pump and potentially break it when you bolt up the bell housing.

The other thing people sometimes get wrong is not unbolting the t/c from the flex plate before pulling the engine or trans, which puts sideways force on the t/c converter. I've even seen some guys leave the t/c attached to the engine and try to stab it into the trans when they reinstall the engine.
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Old Oct 21, 2025 | 03:21 AM
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The TC turned freely and bolted to the flex plate just fine. I’ll follow up when I get it started and running. Thank you.
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Old Nov 27, 2025 | 08:16 PM
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500 miles and no leaks, the pump works as it should. Thanks for all the help
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