Finally getting the 4.0 put together (rebuilt), located a 90K miles used AW4, so looks like 2021 may be the year my XJ is on the road and the republic implodes.

Quality parts like water pump, serp belt idlers, sensors (O2, CPS, temp, oil pr, etc): I am done with china crap from Autozone/Advanced,,, where to source good "Non China" parts?

Felpro gaskets: The blue oil pan gasket, does it get any sealer? head gasket- sealer?

#11 head bolt sealant- does it have to be loctite sealant, or can it be generic permatex #2 non hardening?

do you lube the head bolts to get even torque?

Even though it is a 2001 4.0,, I picked up the "optional" oil slinger for between the damper and timing gear. any issues?

I am sure I will have 100 more questions

 

I hope we are all done buying from China.

AC Delco was trying to make a higher quality line. They call it either Professional or Gold.
I noticed many of the parts were made in the US.
Rockauto generally lists country of origin.

No sealer is needed on the silicone gaskets. For anything else I use a smear of Loctite 534.
The tube is handy.

For the head bolt that goes through into the waterjacket, I've just used the blue Teflon filled pipe dope.

I've always used new ARP head bolts with a light coat of oil.

No opinion on the slinger.

 

Thanks for the response.
I did get new FelPro head bolts,

 

Mopar or standard, standard isn't always made in the USA but their higher quality line is good in it opinion.

I always buy off rockauto, local parts stores are good for nothing expect small little things like splices and those aren't usually that nice either... I've come to the conclusions parts stores are great when you're in a pinch. Also Napa is awesome lol, needed some exhaust adapters and clamps and left Napa for 20 bucks. I had called around and every exhaust shop near me wouldn't so the job for under 60

 

RTV is required for installation of the oil pan gasket. See FSM.


Smart move on the FelPro bolts. They are just as strong ARP, likely stronger, and they are machined to the exact OEM spec. The issue with the ARP bolts is that they are not machined to OEM specs. They do not feature the studs for the injector harness.
The head gasket is installed dry, however the sealing surfaces must be perfectly smooth and flat with .004".
#11 Head bolt is installed with sealant. Most non hardening sealants work fine for this, even RTV.
Invest in some ARP Ultra Torque Lube for the remaining head bolts. The lube is applied on the threads and under the head flange. ARP lube is excellent for this, but you could use almost any multi-purpose grease.
The oil slinger was designed to keep oil away from the front oil seal. Just like the rear main cap has a drain. It is optional, not crucial and the late model 4.0L engines were not even equipped with this part.

 

Any and all oil pan gaskets need silicone at the corners.
I took it the OP was talking about siliconing the faces of the gaskets, which for cork gaskets is a big improvement.

 

Remember to get that grounding strap in place on the rear drive side head bolt BEFORE you drop it into the vehicle.

A slightly upsized braided strap would be excellent here. Do not make the mistake of putting some big welding cable for a ground there. It's designed to suppress radio interference from the injectors. A braided strap does that better than cable.

 

Thanks for the tip on securing the ground strap prior,
Any sources for the upsized ground strap?

 

Thanks for the details,
I will RTV the corners only,
Would Permatex Never Seize, allied very thinly as you described work as a lube for the head bolts?

 

In the early 80s when I was working on my hotrods as a high schooler,, You just went to the auto parts store and bought parts,, all they had was typ quality american made parts.
But I agree, Advanced and Auto Zone sell nothing but China junk.

Does standard make a full line of replacement parts?? Do you source them from Rock Auto ?

 

The usual auto parts stores normally carry an assortment of grounding straps. Size isn't critical. Take the original with you and find something bigger.

 

It would do the job just fine, as long as the excess anti-seize is cleaned up. Anti-seize is simply a mixture of base oil and metal powder. Either nickel, copper or aluminum. You wouldn't want too much metal powder floating around in the engine oil.

 

Ah,, then straight grease it is.

 

Fel-Pro Blue Stripe paper gaskets, sealer or not?
I have read everything on the Fel-pro site,, tons of info on their head gaskets and pan gaskets. BUT nothing on generic blue stripe paper gaskets :

Timing cover and water pump: put gasket on dry? spray with Permatex red sealer/tack? gob it up with silicon ?

I am inclined to spray each side with Permatex high tack

 

High tack or a very thin coating of RTV on the paper gaskets is the way to go. Not only does it insure a proper seal, it makes installation a little easier. This method allows the gasket to stick to the water pump, thermostat housing or timing cover. You can then slap it on the engine and get the bolts started without the part and gasket sliding around and becoming misaligned. Some folks have concerns founded by misinformation about RTV, but look at all the engines and transmissions being manufactured today. You wont find many paper gaskets and you'll notice a whole lot of RTV for parts like oil pans, water pumps and even exhaust manifolds.