Hi guys I just finally got all my parts in and Ill be replacing the track bar, drag link, tie rod bar and all TRE's, and steering stabilizer. Ive looked at a lot of write ups on here and various other sources on the internet and watched a lot of videos and a lot of it seems pretty straight forward. My question is what are the torque specs on everything? And also any advice for those that have replaced these things before. Whats the best way to measure everything to keep things as close to aligned as possible ( I will be getting an alignment afterwards). Thanks

Edit for 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport

 

Stock or lifted? Do the track bar first on flat ground (wheels still on). Take off the old tie rod, measure it from rod end to rod end, then make sure your new one is same length. Do the same for the drag link. Take out the old stabilizer. Bolt the new parts all up. I don't have my FSM handy so I can't give you torque specs but don't forget to grease it all up before running it

 

Torque info here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/sus...e-specs-28577/
Note 5-90's comment about final torque with the vehicle on the ground.

You can get pretty close by measuring the length of each adjustable assembly before removing it and assembling the new one to match. Pretty much just the tie rod ends in your case. At worst the toe will be a bit off but the alignment will catch it.

 

I do my own alignments and I've never had unusual tire wear or side pull so it works. here's a very precise way to do it.
first have jeep on flat ground, lift front and have it rest on 2 jack stands equally on both sides just high enough so you can rotate both tires.
then put a strip of masking tape all around both tires on the threads and using an extremely steady hand (I use a vice to hold my pen) make a line on the masking tape all around the tire by rotating it. do this on both sides.
then, use a straight piece of wood or metal at least 4 feet long, put it horizontally against the center of the right tire making sure its extending past the tire in the front and back. You then unlock your steering and turn the right tire so your straight piece is lined up with the rear tire. You will have to check this after every adjustment. Adjust the adjustment by the steering box so your steering wheel is straight.
Now I measure the space between the lines on the tape in front and in the back of the tires and adjust the link so the measurement between the lines is the same in the front and back of tires for zero toe. The more precise you are, the better.
The camber is not adjustable, the caster can be adjusted by putting a angle finder (I use my I phone with a level app that can be calibrated. they are precise to 1/10 of a degree) on the flat mating surface of the upper ball joint. (truck must be off the jack stands for this one to ensure its leveled). this is adjusted by making the lower or upper control arms longer or shorter. Factory setup has an adjustment for the lower ones for this.
ONce your are done, tighten everything up and re check everything.
There you go, you just saved yourself a front alignment.

 

Great information karl I will definitely be doing my own alignments with your write up. Thanks in advance!

 

Sorry I should have mentioned it is lifted 3 inches. Thanks for the helpful information guys.

 

Thanks for the info was the torque spec for the drag link in that one? I know sometimes people refer to it differently.