Am I A Dummy? 1999 AX15 Rear Driveshaft U Joint Question
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Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 3
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From: Southern California
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Formatting this on my phone so sorry if it looks bad.
Tldr; Should I just try a 1310X for the front end of my rear driveshaft because the dimensions seem closest?
I'm replacing the u joints on the rear driveshaft of my XJ.
1999 SE 4WD AX15 NP231, D30 front, 8.25 rear
I used a 1310X for where the driveshaft meets the rear axle. That seemed to fit fine.
Tried to use a 1330X where the rear axle meets the transfer case. Not even close to fitting. As far as I can tell, the yoke OD is 3 13/32" (3.40625"). The part number on the driveshaft is 52098732 as far as I can tell. It is a little faded.
Rockauto and AutoZone both seem to think I should have a larger yoke on the front end of that axle.
I tried measuring the old u joint once I had it out and got something like 3 5/32" (3.15625"). It is so worn out though that I don't trust that measurement. Two of the bearing caps had no needle bearings left under them and one of them had worn the u joint to like a 60 degree angle. I can post a picture if someone wants to see.
These measurements were taken with a measuring tape because my digital caliper decided this was a good time to stop working. Should I go for a 1310X u joint for both ends of the rear driveshaft? Any ideas why the parts being suggested for my Jeep are not the correct parts? I am the second owner but don't really know a detailed history of the car.
Thanks for any help and happy labor day weekend!
Tldr; Should I just try a 1310X for the front end of my rear driveshaft because the dimensions seem closest?
I'm replacing the u joints on the rear driveshaft of my XJ.
1999 SE 4WD AX15 NP231, D30 front, 8.25 rear
I used a 1310X for where the driveshaft meets the rear axle. That seemed to fit fine.
Tried to use a 1330X where the rear axle meets the transfer case. Not even close to fitting. As far as I can tell, the yoke OD is 3 13/32" (3.40625"). The part number on the driveshaft is 52098732 as far as I can tell. It is a little faded.
Rockauto and AutoZone both seem to think I should have a larger yoke on the front end of that axle.
I tried measuring the old u joint once I had it out and got something like 3 5/32" (3.15625"). It is so worn out though that I don't trust that measurement. Two of the bearing caps had no needle bearings left under them and one of them had worn the u joint to like a 60 degree angle. I can post a picture if someone wants to see.
These measurements were taken with a measuring tape because my digital caliper decided this was a good time to stop working. Should I go for a 1310X u joint for both ends of the rear driveshaft? Any ideas why the parts being suggested for my Jeep are not the correct parts? I am the second owner but don't really know a detailed history of the car.
Thanks for any help and happy labor day weekend!
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Any idea on why AutoZone and Rockauto think the yoke should be a little over 3.8"? I don't know if I missed something, but that is what is listed for the '99 manual transmission XJs.
The parts diagram shows that drive shaft part number is for the 4.0l, manual transmission with the 8.25" rear end, and needs ujoint pn 4882793 at both ends, which is a 1310. Which ujoint depends on whether it's the 2.5, 4.0, diesel, and which rear differential you have as well. It doesn't differentiate on the u-joints between 2wd and 4wd. Most combinations take the 1310 though.
Also seems wrong to say the location is at the transmission versus the transfer case too.
Also seems wrong to say the location is at the transmission versus the transfer case too.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Thanks for checking. I ended up going and getting an additional 1310X for the front end of the driveshaft late last night after your first reply. That seems like it was the correct choice.
Anecdotally, I got the first u joint out with a hammer and socket. I used a ball joint press for the second one and that was a lot smoother. I would definitely recommend using a ball joint press right off the bat for anyone who comes across this in the future.
Anecdotally, I got the first u joint out with a hammer and socket. I used a ball joint press for the second one and that was a lot smoother. I would definitely recommend using a ball joint press right off the bat for anyone who comes across this in the future.
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