No, it shows around battery voltage. Down there around the second white line, above red. Seems that the white line should be around battery voltage, even though it doesn't have a value. And when it hangs around down there the GEN light comes on in short order. When it comes back up can usually feel/hear the little bit of added engine load if paying attention and gauge goes back up to just shy of 14, until battery is charged back up then dips a little bit.

West Marine near me seems to be out of a lot of stuff right now. I got some 10 AWG red and 12 AWG black there recently and they were out of anything else I needed. When I pick up the regulator and plug today will match the wire gauge at O'Reilly. Not sure what gauge I have in the tool box already, might not need it.

 

Looks like I can use either #3 or #6 for switched power. Key has to be on for you power window people to roll windows?

That red wire in #16 is coming out, left over from fog light wiring that had its own fuse, but if it checks out as key on hot can use it too.

No idea what is going on with #18 because I do not have a heated rear window and three diagrams in a row show it is supposed to be 25A for heated rear window.

My fuse box 1996 Cherokee XJ

Cabin fuse box 1996 Cherokee XJ

 

may I suggest inserting a junkyard alternator

I have been thru 3 now, in 3 XJ, and installing new brushes didnt fix them, so its a bit of a mystery

I paid an average of < $50each, and still have 2 spares

takes me 20min to do an alternator.

That will be the cheapest and easiest fix, or you will have a spare for the future

 

Because the alternator didn't test bad and it doesn't act like the alternator. The voltage regulation tested bad and it acts like that is what's wrong. The alternator charges when told to. I do have one picked out at Advance Auto in case I need one.

Today took the not-B-wire connector off and cleaned all four of the ring connectors (7mm nuts and 10mm nuts). It wasn't grossly crusty like a YouTuber rig, but they were dull and gray. Rubbed them bright with a green Scotch Brite and WD-40 Contact Cleaner. Tried to clean up the studs too. Added some dielectric grease to the base of the studs and put it all back together.

Now, indicated charging is just a little higher, the needle stays right on 14v now until the battery is charged back up and then drops to just a hair under 14v. It stayed around there for most of my drive home. Will see how it runs tomorrow.

Also replaced the 100A MegaFuse with a 125A MegaFuse. Plus picked up all the parts for an external voltage regulator setup. Fuse slot #16 does not have keyed power. It is always hot the opposite terminal from that wire. Fuse #6 has switched power, so if it comes to installing all this stuff that is the one I am going to use. And I can use that red wire to go out to the engine compartment for the on/run signal to the voltage regulator.

 

Well every once in a while you might get someone working there that actually knows what they are doing automotive-wise.... but most are far from being an ASE tech. So yeah...you're probably right.... standard response. lol

 

Is there some specific name for the wiring connector at the bottom of the alternator (lower left of photo)? Not having any luck matching up what I am finding online. Already guessing that I am going to have to go to the junkyard and cut one off a Jeep.

 

I believe that's the Output terminal the black part is simply an isolator.

 

The part at the end of the harness that gets bolted onto the alternator is the isolator?

 

You are going to have to be more specific. are you talking about the thing with the plastic isolator around it or the plastic box with 3 connectors on it.

Sorry if this makes no sense, I think we have spoke before. Anyways all I'm saying is I think you know I'm special so cut me some slack XD

 

I don't have one with 3 connectors. I have one with 4 connectors and one with 1 connector.
Talking about the plastic part that has 2 wires that go into it and 4 eyelets that are nutted down to the alternator, as pictured above.

 

Honestly I shouldn't have even tried to help you I sound like an idiot XD. Someone who actually makes some sense though should be able to understand you now though.

 

Turns out after a few other trips to that store to see if they had odds and ends for this voltage regular mod, and other stuff, it seems like everybody there thinks the voltage regulator is in the alternator. Now, I have heard of that a lot on other vihicles. I even thought that is what I have, not that long ago. So the response of "bad alternator, voltage regulator" makes a sort of sense.

I did mention to one guy who has an older D2500 that on my year and a lot of others the VR is in the computer.

 

have you checked out the FSM for diagnostics ?

I think it has some, certainly explains the regulation anyway

I would not trust an auto parts clerk, only a qualified auto electrician

If your alternator light comes on, and voltage gauge is low, I would still go the junkyard alt...as a diagnostic

the isolating block should be removable

 

yes... the black part is the isolator. It helps to keep current from bridging or arcing to another location on the housing than where it should be directed to.

 

What I get searching for alternator isolator is rubber bushings for the alternator mount.