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Advice for removing rusty suspension bolts

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Old Sep 1, 2017 | 10:01 AM
  #16  
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Good thinking. I'm still not sure how much the penetrant will help, but it certainly can't hurt. Heating/cooling cycles will definitely help. Heating and immediately quenching with water would probably work even better.
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Old Sep 1, 2017 | 10:08 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Tbone289
Good thinking. I'm still not sure how much the penetrant will help, but it certainly can't hurt. Heating/cooling cycles will definitely help. Heating and immediately quenching with water would probably work even better.
That's not a bad idea. I have a bunch of water bottles in the garage too that are super old and I basically keep around in case I accidentally set something on fire! For example, there must have been some spider webs near where the sway bar mounts to the leaf sprint and when i was heating those bolts, POOF, FIRE! Bye spiders.
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Old Sep 1, 2017 | 10:16 AM
  #18  
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Do you have a rear sway bar? If you do any off-roading, I highly recommend you get rid of it. It really doesn't do anything for you except limit articulation. You won't miss it at all on the road either.
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Old Sep 1, 2017 | 10:31 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Tbone289
Do you have a rear sway bar? If you do any off-roading, I highly recommend you get rid of it. It really doesn't do anything for you except limit articulation. You won't miss it at all on the road either.
Thanks. Right now I just plan to drive it on the road and hopefully the sand dunes next season. Looks simple enough to remove though if it becomes a hindrance. Thanks!
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Old Sep 3, 2017 | 08:17 PM
  #20  
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So I got some time on the Jeep today. Had some success and some problems. The biggest surprise was that I was able to get the leaf spring bolts out without much issue. Just took a big breaker bar to them and the cracked loose. The nuts on the u bolts broke loose ok as well, but eventually most of them broke off. That's fine because I have all new hardware. However I'm having trouble getting the new u bolts through the plate. They are too wide and have to compress them in to fit in the holes. I was able to get one side in using a tie down straps, but the back is giving me trouble. Anyone have other ways to handle this?

As for the shock, well that hasn't gone well. Keep in mind I only worked von the passenger side today. But the lower shock stud broke right off when I tried to remove the bolt. And I have absolutely no idea how to fix or repair this. The two upper bolts aren't moving. One just spins and spins. The other is just rounding off the head. Can anyone tell me how to get to the other side of those bolts from inside the trunk?
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Old Sep 3, 2017 | 09:13 PM
  #21  
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Sounds like you've got the wrong u-bolts.
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Old Sep 3, 2017 | 09:41 PM
  #22  
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Do not force the u-bolts into position. If they don't fit, then they are probably the wrong u-bolts. If you bought them locally, at a chain auto parts store, they are probably not correct for your cherokee.

Look up some videos on fixing jeep xj upper rear shock bolts. Just google or youtube "jeep xj broken shock bolts" Its a well known problem. The one that is spinning, is probably going to save you time in the end, because that means the welded nut has already broken free. Which is what you'll probably end up doing with all of them. For the one that wont turn and is rounding the head. After reading/watching what I recommended, you may choose to simply grind it off with a cut-off wheel. But if that is not an option you may need an extraction socket. They are commonly available (usually Irwin brand) and can be found at your local auto store, and sometimes hardware stores. They are special sockets that "bite" into the rounded bolt head as you turn to loose them. They are very effective, and pretty much a must-have for old rust Jeeps.

Once you have decided what to do, you may end up putting new bolts through the top back down into the holes. Or you could use a flag nut kit from rough country. I would use these if I was punching out my upper shock bolts:

Rough Country - 1082 - Rear Bar Pin Flag Nut (Cherokee XJ) for Jeep: 84-01 Cherokee XJ 4WD/2WD
by Rough Country
Link: http://a.co/7eHqiRk

As for the lower shock bolt. Also fairly common. Try googling "jeep xj broken shock stud".
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 12:01 AM
  #23  
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D35 u-bolts should measure 2 5/8" (2.625"), and 8.25 u-bolts should measure 3".
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 10:30 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by fb97xj1
D35 u-bolts should measure 2 5/8" (2.625"), and 8.25 u-bolts should measure 3".
Thanks for the heads up. It didn't even occur to me to think that I might have u bolts for the wrong axle. Although, being a 99, I think I should have the 8.25 axle, right? Which would mean it has the wider u bolts. The fact that the u bolts are too wide makes me think I have the D35 and got u bolts for the 8.25. I'll measure the u bolts and post back up.

As for the shocks, thanks guys. I'll look up some videos and see what's going on.
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 10:45 AM
  #25  
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I'm pretty certain that if your XJ has ABS it'll have a Dana 35.

There's pic around here somewhere that has the different differential covers offered. Maybe someone has it saved and can post it.
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 10:48 AM
  #26  
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I was just looking at that and found this page https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/do-...973/#post51141

Based on these photos, I definitely have the Chrysler 8.25. This is a link to the exact kit I purchased: http://www.trailmastersuspension.com...FMTM3730-40043. It says for use with the 8.25 axle. Obviously they are closed today for the holiday, but I guess I can call tomorrow and see what's going on. In the meantime I have some other things I can work on and I can measure the u bolts.
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 01:40 PM
  #27  
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I'm a total dumb dumb. I had the plate oriented the wrong way. I turned it 90 degrees and the bolts fit just fine. Passenger side is on. Driver's side is almost done. I can't get the shocks done right now. I'm taking it to a shop for an alignment and some rust repair so I think I'll just have them do the rear shocks. This lift kit install is kicking my ***!
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 03:54 PM
  #28  
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Finished working on the driver's side. Unfortunately when I removed the shackle in the back, the bolt came out with the metal sleeve out of the bushing. Plus I couldn't get the lower bold out of the shackle. I'm hoping to just buy a new shackle with bolts and new bushings. Anyone know where I can get a new shackle?
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 04:31 PM
  #29  
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Of course you can buy one online but you should be able to get one at a local auto parts store. Or you could with an aftermarket set from IRO.
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 07:44 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
This.

No penetrating oil will get around this. Heat is required.
i didnt use a torch on my 92 and had no air tools
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