I think that would be the case with 2WD Cherokees, but with a 4WD transfer case I think you could put it in neutral to protect the automatic transmission from turning when the engine is off. My question is whether that would hurt the rear output shaft bearing on the transfer case.

 

well either way
might as well remove both shafts to be safe

 

You don't have to DC the driveshaft to tow an Auto XJ...trust me, the topic has been beaten to death, but it's easy to do and requires no DC. Do a search on TOADs in this forum and you'll get plenty of feedback on it...Wheel safe...

 

to be honest with you about the over book pricing i see it here in FL panama city area all the time with any jeep product. just low ball them with the "fair" book price, and if it a stock Cherokee with no addons and they give you any guff then throw the book at them. I mean it, throw it at them literally!

Nothing pisses me off more around here then when i stop somewhere to look at a wrangler or Cherokee with over 100,000 miles on it and its a 95 or lower and they want well over 5,000. some people need to be smacked ya know?

 

HAHa that made me laugh

 

Well it has taken me this long to buy a Cherokee. Prices are high around here and I paid more than I wanted to.

1998 Cherokee XJ 67,000 miles, 4x4, Command-Trac, 5 speed manual 4.0 six cylinder, AC, grille guard 4 door almost new tires, in USFS green (ugly green) for $4650. It's in really good condition. It looks like one fender was repainted but not replaced. Interior looks good, had seat covers. Haven't found any rust yet but haven't crawled underneath. I got it at a GSA online auction from the USFS.
Although it was an auction they let me drive it around the parking lot before bidding.

I haven't picked it up yet. I'll post pics soon.

I have seen a few 2001 models with a little more mileage but I think a 1998 in equal condition is worth more to me in the long run and costs less. Hopefully I'll put another 200,000 miles on it.

Thanks all of you who have posted in this thread with good info and thanks for all the useful info on this forum (I've been lurking).

 

All I can say is my jeep has been the best 4X4 i/we have ever owned, i go places in my little jeep that my freinds go on their 4 wheelers...jeep really does "go anywhere and do anything"!! It is a great toy as well as daily driver...

 

Asking a GM guy or a Toyota guy about which years are "best" in a JEEP is like asking a dog which kind of cat they like.

 

Here's the link to the GSA site:
http://gsaauctions.gov/gsaauctions/gsaauctions/

There is a junked XJ to be auctioned in Pa. on Friday.

 

Depends on where you are and if people know their XJ's and it sounds like people there do. I got my 1990 in almost mint for $900 and a buddy picked up a 1997 for $1700.
Best years from all my research are 1997-1999. New body, HP D30 front, better head.

 

I myself have a 99 4dr auto. it really does depend on how you drive for transmission. I run 235/75/15 right now, but did run 30x9.5 with just a little bit of rub when the body flexes. Are you going to use this as a DD? If so get the cruise control and relax. I haven't had any major problems with my 99 here and there replacement, and a couple wheel bearings(mainly from submerging the wheels often without covers). If you get a 99 with Power Windows, most likely the window lock switch will be broken. Use the search feature on here and there is an excellently detailed thread about solving this problem. Any questions, feel free to pm me ill help out as best I can. Good luck with your purchase

 

I drug it home behind my Tundra this morning. Hopefully I can figure out how to post pics:

 

That thing looks pretty cherry.

And, That's home? I'm a bit envious.

 

Yeah, that's home.

The little Jeep has no rust, no leaks, no sludge, good brakes.

I was dissapointed that Jeep didn't put manual reverse and first directly opposite from each other for "rocking" it out of a hole...what were they thinking? I liked that feature on older 3 speed Jeeps.
The Jeep seems to be geared high. When you let out the clutch in first or reverse it's moving along pretty fast. I imagine this is more so with taller tires.
The clutch seems to have no free play, but this might be the nature of hydraulic clutch actuators, IIRC.
The rear axle seems to have positrac. Is this standard on XJ's? I jacked up the rear tires and spun them in neutral, they won't go in opposite directions.

The tires are almost new LT215-75/15's. Seems "LT" means rough ride, I would have looked for "P" tires for such a light vehicle, but it might be hard to find tires with aggressive tread in "P" rating.

There is no tow hitch and it doesn't look like it ever had one. Just light duty use on this one. It's in much better condition than my 2006 Tundra.

How can I tell if this is a "SE" model or "Sport"?

 

It does everything the np231 does. Its good. Definately check the door hinges and gaps on all doors, hood etc.. it'll let you know if its been hit. look at the front diff control arm mounts, it'll let you know if its been beat up. I have to agree with the other poster too... electric windows and locks =more thing that can go wrong. 96 is a good year.