ADVICE - getting to the leaf spring nuts through the floorboards
 

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...2708ebf99d.jpgIf anyone has any good sources / youtube videos on getting to the leaf spring and shackle nuts inside the frame rails through the floorboards, they'd be much appreciated!

I’ve been trying to replace my leaf springs and shackles and I’ve gotten the front left leaf bolt to spin free of the threads (I believe) but for the life of me I cannot pry it out of the bushing/spring eyelet no matter what tool I use. The front right bolt, however, will not thread out anymore at all, so I believe I broke the weld between the nut and the frame. The rear two shackle bolts are also not wanting to be pried out, even though I believe those are free of the threads too.

Since I am a college student who does not know how to weld and is working in a small storage facility, I think my best bet is to saw the bolts in half and access the nut by going through the floorboards. Then I’ll just have a friend get in the car and hold the wrench to the new nut when the new springs and bolts go in. Does that sound like the right idea? I’m new to wrenching and I’d like to make this as easy and cheap as possible.

So if you have any recommendations on getting to the rear floorboards (just to the four spots above the nuts in the frame), that would be much appreciated. I’ll have to do this for the front passenger side, so I might as well do the same for all four. Thanks!

No! If anything make a window.

Wait one...

This is probably why the bolts won't come out:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...87cedb8ec.jpeg

so you'll have to sawzall them.

And this is the best way (IMO) to get to the welded nuts (from ehall a while back):

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/attach...spring-eye.jpg

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...-broke-210280/

I made smaller windows:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...4627005f66.jpg

You'd be better off cutting those bolts out with a sawsall from underneath, putting the blade thru the exposed part of the rubber bushing, then dealing with the nut separately. I think it's better to open up the other side of the frame to get the nut out, then welding a plate over the hole later. A good trick would be a heavy plate with a socket clearance hole in it to get to the new nut.

That frame looks like it has a crack in it just after the spring pocket anyway. That should be welded as well.

Dont wait to too long to take care of that crack.

You certainly have that fire extinguisher at the ready! I do like seeing a jack stand being used (presumably in addition to the jack, and the tire shoved underneath just in case.

Don't you need to weld the hole back up afterwards though?

Honestly I didn't see it until I looked at the picture. I've been so focused on the underside of the frame rails instead

I didn't, and Caged didn't:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/sna...-18938/index2/

Although of all the access windows I've seen, I think mine are the best.

Also allows for future easy access.

Course, what you got going with the frame there kinda changes the priority around a little...

Meanwhile, inspect the entire frame. Consider something like this depending on what you find:

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/XJRAIL.html

I just got through installing the rear leafs on my 89 XJ and of course, one side had to be cut out because of rusted bolt to bushing sleeve.
When I got the new grade 8 bolt for it the damn nut weld broke. I made a window through the frame to access the bolt end ( that is 2 windows by the way).
The window was only large enough to get a deep socket through and a little to spare. the window was cut so that the frame could be folded back into place
welded then a plate welded over that to finish it off.
So far it is working like a charm but then I have been a Master Tech since I was 24 and that makes it almost 40 years now, Damn I am getting old.