I’m going to convert the cooling system of my 1989 XJ Limited from closed to open this Fall. At the same time I’d like to remove the AC. It works OK (sort of) but I never use it.

I’ve had the system purged and removal seems pretty straight forward mechanically. I think I have the parts needed to run without it (non AC upper pulley and brackets, serpentine belt, upper rad hose).

I imagine I’ll have to plug some vacuum lines and may end up with some loose wires but are there any pitfalls I should be looking for? I’m not familiar with the cycling switch, clutch and any other relays, what role the PCM plays and what other things are involved.

Is it as simple as yanking out the compressor, lines, condenser, etc.?

 

I cannot speak exactly for an 89 but on my 92/96/01...all you have to do is replace the compressor with the ac bypass pulley and bracket...its a kit..maybe 30 or 40 bucks. Other than tying down some loose end pipes you have to do nothing. I removed my condenser last week because last winter the condenser would get sprayed with road slop and start to ice up. With no freon in the condenser, it would not melt the ice and snow sprayed on to it and it would start to block airflow into radiator.even if you dont use the ac...defrost mode turns on the compressor and that would warm up the freon enough to melt the blockages

 

That's my specialty ... doing"nothing"! I'm trying not to over think this thing but also trying to avoid unintended consequences. I appreciate your input.

btw - I picked up an original AC bypass pulley and bracket from a wrecked MJ.

 

Wait, so you have a bracket that uses the long horizontal bolts on the AC Mounting? One that came off a no AC MJ?

That's a major score right there. The "kits" available today are for later models with different compressor mountings.

There are no vacuum lines directly for the AC but you need to be careful not to damage any in the area. The vac lines operate the vents, cruise control (if you have it) and the heater bypass valve (if still on).

You'll have the wires to the compressor (hot and ground), and wires to the dryer (for the low pressure cutoff). I would also pull the clutch relay and cap off the evaporator.

As noted above, defrost turns on the ac to help dehumidify the air. You won't have that now but I don't think that's an issue.

 

I got lucky and picked up the bracket that bolts to the block, the bracket that bolts to that bracket, all 3 pulleys and a pile of other parts before a guy sent what was left to a wrecker. It all came off a '88 MJ. The 2 long bolts were seized into the casting but the 3 that fastened everything to the block backed out easily. I blasted the 2 brackets as a unit and clear coated it so I got it back to the original look.

I have cruise control, something else I never use, and the original heater control valve. I will remove the HCV when I convert from close to open cooling. I did that job recently on my MJ. I just capped the vacuum line and zip tied it to another line to get it out of the way.

Thanks for the info on the wiring. That all seems clear and doable.