AC Condenser Replacement
#1
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AC Condenser Replacement
Hi all. So this past weekend I decided to tear down the cooling system on my '99 XJ (260,000 miles) and start replacing. Well I'm to the last piece, the radiator. The new one just showed up yesterday so I was heading to go get those little quick disconnect tool things from autozone and jump in when I got wondering if I should pull the AC condenser and replace it at the same time. What would someone else do?
The AC has never worked since I've owned the vehicle. I'm sure there's a leak somewhere and all the refrigerant leaked out at some point and either the condenser or the evaporator leaked and the PO didn't want to spend the money to tear into it and have it repaired. I don't know the first thing about taking a condenser out but assuming I can test the refrigerant level and it was low enough to pull pieces off (as I suspect) should I do it while I'm right here and the radiator is out? If I don't do it can I get at it without pulling the radiator later?
sorry AC wasn't my priority before but as I'm nearing the end of the list of fixes and upgrades to ensure the Jeep continues to run well I'm starting to think of a day when I have AC again.
The AC has never worked since I've owned the vehicle. I'm sure there's a leak somewhere and all the refrigerant leaked out at some point and either the condenser or the evaporator leaked and the PO didn't want to spend the money to tear into it and have it repaired. I don't know the first thing about taking a condenser out but assuming I can test the refrigerant level and it was low enough to pull pieces off (as I suspect) should I do it while I'm right here and the radiator is out? If I don't do it can I get at it without pulling the radiator later?
sorry AC wasn't my priority before but as I'm nearing the end of the list of fixes and upgrades to ensure the Jeep continues to run well I'm starting to think of a day when I have AC again.
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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I replaced mine because my pump went poof and I didn't want to take the risk of shrapnel floating around in my new system. Also because condensers are relatively inexpensive for all of the glorious cool air they provide. Don't need to pull the radiator to swap it, I think all I did was remove the support panel. At worst, you may need to lift it up slightly to fit the tabs over the pins at the bottom.
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Year: 2000 and 1998
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I replaced mine because my pump went poof and I didn't want to take the risk of shrapnel floating around in my new system. Also because condensers are relatively inexpensive for all of the glorious cool air they provide. Don't need to pull the radiator to swap it, I think all I did was remove the support panel. At worst, you may need to lift it up slightly to fit the tabs over the pins at the bottom.
what about the ? evaporator, in the heater assm?? idk air but im close to changing all i can reach!
btw someone is hi jacking my posts with jibberish! domt know who,,,yet.
Last edited by nujeepguy; 06-30-2017 at 05:33 PM.
#5
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On the other hand, if the evaporator is a serpentine type construction it can be successfully flushed out rather than replaced. (Not sure whether the XJ's is serpentine or parallel.) Given how common evaporator leaks are on these vehicles though, if doing a major AC overhaul you'll probably want to replace it anyway.
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Button up the cooling system, THEN tear into the AC. Fixing the AC is a major undertaking, I suggest you deal with that headache by itself. The condenser can be easily replaced independently of the radiator. Don't throw a condenser at it, if it doesn't need it.
To troubleshoot the AC, you need to have some good knowledge on the system. Do not break any connections on the AC system w/o verifying there is no refrigerant in the system w/ a set of gauges. Shouldn't dump the stuff into the air, thats bad of course. Not only that, but it could injure you if it blasts you in the face. At a minimum it will blast refrigerant oil all over the engine bay.
I repair/overhaul/modify everything on my vehicles myself. That said, I plan to have a professional diagnose the AC before I dive into it. I would suggest you do the same. Get a reputable shop to diagnose the issue, in detail, and have them evacuate the refrigerant. Then replace and repair the components they advise you to. Then take it back to them to purge and fill the system with refrigerant. AC aint cheap, and its a PITA.
To troubleshoot the AC, you need to have some good knowledge on the system. Do not break any connections on the AC system w/o verifying there is no refrigerant in the system w/ a set of gauges. Shouldn't dump the stuff into the air, thats bad of course. Not only that, but it could injure you if it blasts you in the face. At a minimum it will blast refrigerant oil all over the engine bay.
I repair/overhaul/modify everything on my vehicles myself. That said, I plan to have a professional diagnose the AC before I dive into it. I would suggest you do the same. Get a reputable shop to diagnose the issue, in detail, and have them evacuate the refrigerant. Then replace and repair the components they advise you to. Then take it back to them to purge and fill the system with refrigerant. AC aint cheap, and its a PITA.
#7
I have overhauled the AC system on both of my XJ's. It's really not that bad if you have the right equipment. Fist step is to get a vacuum pump of some sort. I ended up using the venturi type from harbor freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-va...ors-96677.html
IT is far from perfect, but gets the job done. You will need a beefy compressor. Otherwise, just get this:https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm...ump-98076.html
You will want to pull a vacuum and make sure there are no leaks. If you lose vacuum, then get an oring replacement kit:
If the system has been open or leaking for a long time, you will want to replace the receiver/drier. The only piece you cannot get to under the hood is the evaporator core.
You will struggle with the disconnects at the condensor and the evap core. USe the quick disconnect tool and keep pushing in and pulling. Twist the two sides in opposite directions to make sure they are free. Just keep pushing and pulling and it should come eventually.
If you are going to overhaul the entire AC system this is what I would do.
1. Get a set of aC gauges
2. Pull a vacuum. If it leaks, replace all orings.
3. Once it holds vacuum, replace the receiver/drier and condensor
4. Make sure you get the right amount of oil in if you are replacing major components (http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refri...apacities/jeep)
5. Pull a vacuum on the system system and hold for 30 minutes to remove all moisture
6. Charge with r134a and make sure pressures are correct(http://acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/)
7. If pressures are not correct then start troubleshooting or take to a pro
You can get to the condensor without messing with anything else.
IT is far from perfect, but gets the job done. You will need a beefy compressor. Otherwise, just get this:https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm...ump-98076.html
You will want to pull a vacuum and make sure there are no leaks. If you lose vacuum, then get an oring replacement kit:
If the system has been open or leaking for a long time, you will want to replace the receiver/drier. The only piece you cannot get to under the hood is the evaporator core.
You will struggle with the disconnects at the condensor and the evap core. USe the quick disconnect tool and keep pushing in and pulling. Twist the two sides in opposite directions to make sure they are free. Just keep pushing and pulling and it should come eventually.
If you are going to overhaul the entire AC system this is what I would do.
1. Get a set of aC gauges
2. Pull a vacuum. If it leaks, replace all orings.
3. Once it holds vacuum, replace the receiver/drier and condensor
4. Make sure you get the right amount of oil in if you are replacing major components (http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refri...apacities/jeep)
5. Pull a vacuum on the system system and hold for 30 minutes to remove all moisture
6. Charge with r134a and make sure pressures are correct(http://acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/)
7. If pressures are not correct then start troubleshooting or take to a pro
You can get to the condensor without messing with anything else.
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#8
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Year: 2000 and 1998
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You can get to the condensor without messing with anything else.
can the evaporator be cleaned, blown out? could it have junk in it?
#9
If there aren't any leaks, you don't need to change the condenser. You can use an off the shelf cleaner/flush from an auto store.
There are a couple things to consider:
If the compressor disintegrated you will have metal shrapnel in the system and it needs to be flushed and probably change the compressor. This is the least likely scenario I would say.
If you are replacing anything else in the system, replace the receiver/drier. It's job is to absorb moisture. If there is a leak and the system has been inoperable, it will have absorbed a bunch of moisture.
Start by pulling a vacuum. No point in doing anything until you see if it holds a vacuum. On the second system I did, it would pull a vacuum, but lost several pounds of pressure over a few hours. I changed all the o rings and it was good to go. Put a new receiver/drier in and works perfect now.
There are a couple things to consider:
If the compressor disintegrated you will have metal shrapnel in the system and it needs to be flushed and probably change the compressor. This is the least likely scenario I would say.
If you are replacing anything else in the system, replace the receiver/drier. It's job is to absorb moisture. If there is a leak and the system has been inoperable, it will have absorbed a bunch of moisture.
Start by pulling a vacuum. No point in doing anything until you see if it holds a vacuum. On the second system I did, it would pull a vacuum, but lost several pounds of pressure over a few hours. I changed all the o rings and it was good to go. Put a new receiver/drier in and works perfect now.
#10
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Year: 2000 and 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If there aren't any leaks, you don't need to change the condenser. You can use an off the shelf cleaner/flush from an auto store.
There are a couple things to consider:
If the compressor disintegrated you will have metal shrapnel in the system and it needs to be flushed and probably change the compressor. This is the least likely scenario I would say.
If you are replacing anything else in the system, replace the receiver/drier. It's job is to absorb moisture. If there is a leak and the system has been inoperable, it will have absorbed a bunch of moisture
Start by pulling a vacuum. No point in doing anything until you see if it holds a vacuum. On the second system I did, it would pull a vacuum, but lost several pounds of pressure over a few hours. I changed all the o rings and it was good to go. Put a new receiver/drier in and works perfect now.
There are a couple things to consider:
If the compressor disintegrated you will have metal shrapnel in the system and it needs to be flushed and probably change the compressor. This is the least likely scenario I would say.
If you are replacing anything else in the system, replace the receiver/drier. It's job is to absorb moisture. If there is a leak and the system has been inoperable, it will have absorbed a bunch of moisture
Start by pulling a vacuum. No point in doing anything until you see if it holds a vacuum. On the second system I did, it would pull a vacuum, but lost several pounds of pressure over a few hours. I changed all the o rings and it was good to go. Put a new receiver/drier in and works perfect now.
how do i know if it did?. its out and feels smooth when i turn it by hand.
btwi couldnt move the belt tension bolt so i pulled the comp by tilting it. hope to redo the same way.
#11
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Wow, this is excellent. Thank you. I have experience with the quick disconnects and I have the compressor. I'll be headed to harbor freight then. One last thing, do you know where all the O-rings are located?
I have overhauled the AC system on both of my XJ's. It's really not that bad if you have the right equipment. Fist step is to get a vacuum pump of some sort. I ended up using the venturi type from harbor freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-va...ors-96677.html
IT is far from perfect, but gets the job done. You will need a beefy compressor. Otherwise, just get this:https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm...ump-98076.html
You will want to pull a vacuum and make sure there are no leaks. If you lose vacuum, then get an oring replacement kit:https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-.../dp/B000C2Q1MM
If the system has been open or leaking for a long time, you will want to replace the receiver/drier. The only piece you cannot get to under the hood is the evaporator core.
You will struggle with the disconnects at the condensor and the evap core. USe the quick disconnect tool and keep pushing in and pulling. Twist the two sides in opposite directions to make sure they are free. Just keep pushing and pulling and it should come eventually.
If you are going to overhaul the entire AC system this is what I would do.
1. Get a set of aC gauges
2. Pull a vacuum. If it leaks, replace all orings.
3. Once it holds vacuum, replace the receiver/drier and condensor
4. Make sure you get the right amount of oil in if you are replacing major components (http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refri...apacities/jeep)
5. Pull a vacuum on the system system and hold for 30 minutes to remove all moisture
6. Charge with r134a and make sure pressures are correct(http://acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/)
7. If pressures are not correct then start troubleshooting or take to a pro
You can get to the condensor without messing with anything else.
IT is far from perfect, but gets the job done. You will need a beefy compressor. Otherwise, just get this:https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm...ump-98076.html
You will want to pull a vacuum and make sure there are no leaks. If you lose vacuum, then get an oring replacement kit:https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-.../dp/B000C2Q1MM
If the system has been open or leaking for a long time, you will want to replace the receiver/drier. The only piece you cannot get to under the hood is the evaporator core.
You will struggle with the disconnects at the condensor and the evap core. USe the quick disconnect tool and keep pushing in and pulling. Twist the two sides in opposite directions to make sure they are free. Just keep pushing and pulling and it should come eventually.
If you are going to overhaul the entire AC system this is what I would do.
1. Get a set of aC gauges
2. Pull a vacuum. If it leaks, replace all orings.
3. Once it holds vacuum, replace the receiver/drier and condensor
4. Make sure you get the right amount of oil in if you are replacing major components (http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refri...apacities/jeep)
5. Pull a vacuum on the system system and hold for 30 minutes to remove all moisture
6. Charge with r134a and make sure pressures are correct(http://acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/)
7. If pressures are not correct then start troubleshooting or take to a pro
You can get to the condensor without messing with anything else.
#12
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I'm pretty sure it was only the clutch that went out, but being that I'm the fourth owner and the XJ being 16 years old at that point, I figured I may as well refresh the entire system since it was all factory-original.
#13
Happened to be diagnosing an intermittent AC clutch on my 99 so took pics of all the oring locations. And I eded up bending the AC clutch plate taking it off so just going to get a new compressor. It was last replaced 10 years ago so about due anyway. At least with the AC equipment, I can change a compressor and be back up and running in a few hours.
HEres where the oring/gaskets go:
At the firewall where the evap core comes through.
At the receiver/drier
At the compressor (these are more like gaskets)
At the condenser.
The kit comes with new springs for the quick disconnects but have never replaced those because I have run out of patience by then.
Hope this helps.
HEres where the oring/gaskets go:
At the firewall where the evap core comes through.
At the receiver/drier
At the compressor (these are more like gaskets)
At the condenser.
The kit comes with new springs for the quick disconnects but have never replaced those because I have run out of patience by then.
Hope this helps.