Hi folks, it's been about six years, but I'm back again. Hopefully this time with some questions you'll will easily answer.
So I picked up another 99 XJ that needed an engine. I found a gently used 96 4.0 through a good friend. Before slinging it in we replaced just about every sensor minus the (MAP and TPS), the coil, and the cooling components. I just figured it was out and a heck of a lot easier to do. I've got to mention that I was taking my time buttoning up under the hood due to removing the interior and installing new floor pans. I still don't have the interior in, but managed to finish plugging in the new engine. When we go to start it we get it to crank, but no start. The initial check at the fuel rail shows pressure has built at the rail, and we can smell fuel when pulling a plug. Initially we have no spark at the plug, or the coil. I change out the new CPS for the known working old one....still no start. After resting on it, I double check the connection at the distributor and found it unplugged. After plugging it in we have spark at the plug. Go to start it and nothing. Switch from the new Accell coil to a known good coil, still no start. We had also replaced the injectors, so for the giggles of it we tried some brake cleaner as starting fluid down the throttle body......nothing. I'm at a loss at this point. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I did it about a month and a half ago, but recall aligning the oil pump, pinning the distributor, inserting it with the hold-down at about 1 o'clock so it would gear in to the correct 3 o'clock hold-down position. To be truthful, I am considering starting with fuel pressure psi verification (my HF fp tester has become a fountain) then removing the distributor, setting the engine to TDC and starting over again just to absolutely ensure I haven't gooned this up. I'm dealing with some health issues, so haven't been able to get back at it right away. Unfortunately it allows me more time to doubt things that are done than actually troubleshoot them.
Need verify the fuel pressure, and that your injectors are getting elec signal,, that "should" verify feul getting into the cylinders,,
Is this a coil pak or distributor engine?
She is a distributor engine with a single coil and what equates to the cam sensor mounted to a plastic disc within the dist. I happened across one of my many HF purchases gone unused today. Seems I own noid lights, so I think the next check will be pulse and pressure. I'm hoping it's not the new injectors, but can't believe all six would be bad.
No, all six wont go bad,, I was wondering if there was an issue with the ECM not sending ANY signal.
Did you try the dreaded spray of starting fluid, to see if it kicks?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdharper02
She is a distributor engine with a single coil and what equates to the cam sensor mounted to a plastic disc within the dist. I happened across one of my many HF purchases gone unused today. Seems I own noid lights, so I think the next check will be pulse and pressure. I'm hoping it's not the new injectors, but can't believe all six would be bad.
I'm still at a loss here. I started from scratch on the distributor alignment. Set the engine to TDC and found that I was (clockwise) a cylinder off? No matter how much I tried, I couldn't get the distributor stabbed to line up with what I had previously set as number one. So I lined up the rotor and the tower it rested on and started the firing order from there (about 6 o'clock). Tried to start, no luck. Hooked up the fuel pressure gauge to the rail and verified I'm building pressure there. I was doing it by myself, so I was seeing around 40 lbs before it bled off as I rounded the fender. So I figure I'm getting enough pressure at the rail. Hooked up the spark test light and I still seem to be getting spark to the cylinders. Cranked the heck out of it, quickly pulled a plug and didn't see the fuel soaking I expected. Still can't believe it could possibly be that all six injectors could be bad, but neglected to noid test them before it got to late. I've pulled the aftermarket Crank Position Sensor and put the, known good, old sensor. So I believe the Accel Coil is good, the CPS is good, the plugs are new, wires/rotor distributor/PCM were in working order on the the previous motor. Any ideas?
Post a p\c of your distributor. There are some bad diagrams out there floating around on the 'Net that show the wiring one cylinder off on the dizzy. It's wrong in either the Chilton or Haynes manual (or both), so people get tripped up. Here''s the correct wiring, courtesy of Cruiser54.
I'll see if I can take a quick snap tomorrow. Mine will look exactly the same, but with the firing order (#1) starts where your picture displays #5. Tomorrow I'm going to get back on the struggle bus and see if I can get the rotor to point to (from your picture and most of mine) the #1 terminal, vice the #5.
I'll see if I can take a quick snap tomorrow. Mine will look exactly the same, but with the firing order (#1) starts where your picture displays #5..
That is exactly your problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdharper02
Tomorrow I'm going to get back on the struggle bus and see if I can get the rotor to point to (from your picture and most of mine) the #1 terminal, vice the #5.
No, leave the rotor alone, and re-do the wiring as in the picture above.
No, leave the rotor alone, and re-do the wiring as in the picture above.
That doesn't make much sense. My "exact" problem is that I've gone by the manufacturer's method of placing the distributor and continue to have the rotor pointing at the #5 tower (according to the distributor layout). I re-wire the cap so that my #1 plug now starts where the #5 is pictured. You tell me that's my problem, I say I'm going to screw with it more and try to get it to point to the #1 terminal and you say to leave it alone? That would leave the initial spark traveling to the #5 cylinder (536241) vice the #1 cylinder (153624).
My latest attempt to see if I am somehow screwing up my distributor placement had me working by myself. I ended up using the line from my compression gauge so I could turn the crank, watch the balancer and ensure that I was on the compression stroke. As I was screwing with it I found that I was still building compression after the TDC (0) mark on the balancer. Looking over the hunk of metal appears to show that the inner and outer have slipped on the balancer. I'll let you all know how it works out when I finally get to installing the new balancer.
