99 vs. 00
 

So I found a good deal on a 2000 XJ that I might pick up today. I am really looking for a 1999 but this is a clean 2000. I know the heads are different and the 2000 has more smog **** on it. I also know that they did away with the distributor on the 2000.

What issues do the 2000 have? Should I just suck it up and buy this one? it has 170K on it but runs super smooth and fires right up.

Im in no rush to buy one so I can be picky and wait for the 1999 to show up.

I would wait if I were you. The differences include the crappy head, the coil rail setup, 3 cats, and a low pinion front axle.

Look for a 99 with an 8.25 rear axle. That'll be your best starting point.

I agree to a certain extent. The front axle isn't a huge concern until you go 6"+ of lift. And finding an axle set that's geared how you want is a pretty common thing and ends up being way cheaper than regearing your own. 3 cats are kind of a pain, but only if you have a specific set of headers you want. There are definitely options. Coil rail setup really isn't that bad. The head is an issue, but if it's fine now and you keep on the lookout, you can find the TUPY head for pretty cheap. Mine was $150 and I only looked for about 10 minutes.

If this XJ is clean and the price is good, I would jump on it. But if you aren't in any hurry to get one, waiting isn't a bad idea. Don't be scared away from a super clean one just because it's an '00.

97s and 98s were good years........>I'd look for a 98.

99 is pretty much universally accepted as the best. It has all of the good stuff with none of the bad stuff.

Ok thanks for the info guys

How much are you willing to pay for a 99 that's air locked, lifted, geared, armored and modded?
If your budget is in the mid teens,,,,, pm me.

I have a 2000 and it only has one Cat. The 2001 has more than one Cat and I think that the 2000s sold in California may have as well. The head on the 2000 and 2001 is a known issue but mine has 267,000 miles on it and the head still has not cracked. If the 2000 is in really nice shape, I would not rule it out just because the head may develop a crack one day. Many do, most don't.

I am gong to pick up the one tomorrow unless I hear from you. I sent you a PM but have yet to hear back. Can you text me so we can talk. 408-401-799zerro

Didn't get it till late. Sent you PM.. No worries if you get something else. I'm OK with Rocking this while the girl enjoys it for school N work. I still plan to change and Swap some things. My ultimate YJ replacement would be a J10 short box but this is pretty cool lil XJ.

Its not the head is crappy its it will crack unless its been replaced already.The 00-01 have a low pinion front axle while the 99 back are high pinion.If its just a street jeep that won't matter but off road and lifts low pinion is weaker and can cause driveline angle problems lifted high enough.The thing for all jeeps to look for is a dana 35 rear end those are the weakest factory rear end its not a deal breaker just plan to swap it out later.

The 2000 has two versions of the exhaust: CA emissions and EPA emissions. The CA emissions system has three catalytic converters and four O2 sensors. The more preferable EPA version has one cat and two O2 sensor. Each one also has an emissions sticker on the firewall in front of the driver that identifies which system it has.

It does not matter whether the vehicle was sold in California. CA emissions vehicles were sold all over the country to boost Chrysler's collective emissions numbers. They marketed the CA emissions as "50 State Emissions" and EPA as "49 State Emissions" to fool people into buying the CA version they really didn't want. Because "50 State" should be better than "49 State," right?

The comment on the headers is sort of right, sort of wrong. If you want a bolt-on header, it won't matter which emissions system you have. The EPA and CA emissions used the same twin-collector exhaust manifold. The EPA version has a twin downpipe where the forward cats are on the CA version. The headers made for '00 and '01 fit either version.

You can use a different header on the EPA version, but that requires you to also replace the twin downpipe and route the exhaust so that it doesn't bang into the front drive shaft, which is in a different place on the 2000 because of the low pinion front axle. There's not a bolt-in conversion for that, so you'll have to make the tube. There's really no point in doing that, though, because the Torque Tubes-style headers are fantastic and bolt right in.

Just to avoid confusion, the 2001 only came with CA emissions. 2000 is the only year you had a choice.

The distributorless coil rail system is not a problem. It's really quite good and keeps the engine running long past when you'd expect it to quit. The whining about it is usually just silliness.

The low pinion Dana 30 only becomes an issue if you lift it. An earlier HP D30 will drop right in, though, to fix that issue. You don't want to put the HP D30 in an unlifted 2000, though, because the front drive shaft will likely bang into the downpipe.

The big issue with the 2000 and 2001 model year is the original-casting 0331 head. They had a casting flaw that causes some of them to crack for no reason between the #3 and #4 cylinders, even when the engine has never been overheated or abused. Not all crack, but enough have cracked for it to be a known issue. Chrysler corrected the problem by switching suppliers in 2002 to the Tupy foundry in Brazil, and a "TUPY" 0331 head does not have the flaw. You can also replace the original head with a beefed up substitute from Clearwater Cylinder Head for around $450, ready to bolt in place on a Saturday afternoon.

You can search for the 0331 head crack and find more info than you ever wanted. Specifically for this transaction, you'll want to familiarize yourself with the signs and look for them when you check it out. The 0331 is not always a reason not to buy if it's rust-free and the price is right, but if you do buy it, you need to watch the cooling system like a hawk and be financially and mentally ready to swap the head if it goes.

Agreed, but when it comes to headers, remember that it's federally illegal to remove any catalytic converter unless it is causing the motor to run poorly, and even then it must be replaced with an EPA approved cat. Meaning that if you have a CA emissions package, you cannot legally just replace the headers with a 49 state set. Also, you cannot replace the CA manifolds with a header for the EPA exhaust. They don't match up at all, since the downpipe for the precats is a different length than the EPA pipe. There definitely is not a twin downpipe on the EPA version. Shaky, I'm sorry but you also should not be suggesting on here to remove cats. That's how we get in trouble. Also, many of us live in states where we have to pass inspection, and you are running a serious risk by removing cats. The shop probably wouldn't notice the pre cats missing, but if they actually happen to look at a checklist, they'll find out. Granted a lot of shops will only point out things that cause the computer to reject it (ie codes, sniffer test, etc.) or that they can make money off of, but you are still running a risk.

Thabks for all the info guys. I think im going to pass on the 2000 as I am in no rush and will wait for the right one to show up. I want what I want and I shouldnt sacrifice that just because I want one now.

What is this magical non-instant gratification thing?