Quote:
Can you see the crankshaft through the block?Originally Posted by denbjornen
Also, I've noticed a pretty substantial leak coming from the oil filter. The starter is wet with oil and the bottom of the oil filter has drips of oil coming from it.
CF Veteran
Quote:
???????????? What would the alt. have to do with it ????????????Originally Posted by coloradowheeler
What condition is the alternator?
Alright, an update. I got a better compression tester today (oreilly) and got the actual readings.
1: 70
2: 35
3: 20
4: 35
5: 0-10
6: 30
Any thoughts? What's weird is that it's not throwing me a check engine
1: 70
2: 35
3: 20
4: 35
5: 0-10
6: 30
Any thoughts? What's weird is that it's not throwing me a check engine
CF Veteran
There's a "wet" test. You put a good tablespoon, (or two), of oil in the holes and go over again. If the number doesn't change it's leaking up top, if it comes up it was leaking past the rings. You can google it or probably see it done on U-tube for a more complete description . "wet/dry compression test" It IS nice to have those two sets of #" when you pull the head and get into figuring out exactly where you stand.
Quote:
Is it worth it though? Based on the results?Originally Posted by DFlintstone
There's a "wet" test. You put a good tablespoon, (or two), of oil in the holes and go over again. If the number doesn't change it's leaking up top, if it comes up it was leaking past the rings. You can google it or probably see it done on U-tube for a more complete description . "wet/dry compression test" It IS nice to have those two sets of #" when you pull the head and get into figuring out exactly where you stand.
CF Veteran
Explain: did the Jeep overheat when the radiator cap came off? What was happening that would cause the cap to come off?
If those numbers are accurate, then no. It's not worth doing a wet test. Buy a new motor.
If those numbers are accurate, then no. It's not worth doing a wet test. Buy a new motor.
CF Veteran
With number that low I would say that your engine is history. I would start looking for a new engine.
Quote:
If those numbers are accurate, then no. It's not worth doing a wet test. Buy a new motor.
The cap I had on has two little metal clips that hold it on. Over time, one of the clips bent outward and the cap was sort of hinging on the other side. I guess the pressure just blew it off. I shouldn't have any overheating issues, I've done a lot of cooling system work.Originally Posted by Cherockee
Explain: did the Jeep overheat when the radiator cap came off? What was happening that would cause the cap to come off?If those numbers are accurate, then no. It's not worth doing a wet test. Buy a new motor.
I'd rather buy a new jeep and part this one out. It's got some body damage... I'll have to consider my options
"I shouldn't have any overheating issues, I've done a lot of cooling system work."
Cap came off + coolant went bye, bye = roasted motor.
Cap came off + coolant went bye, bye = roasted motor.
Ok, what should I do now? I don't think that it could be something wrong with my valves because I got a valve job done on my new head less than a year ago... But then again I could be wrong.
What would it be if it isnt the valves? Piston seals or something like that? I don't mind doing an engine rebuild or anything like that. Can somebody tell me if it would be economical or even feasible to try and repair this? Or would it be better to find a new jeep and part out this one?
What would it be if it isnt the valves? Piston seals or something like that? I don't mind doing an engine rebuild or anything like that. Can somebody tell me if it would be economical or even feasible to try and repair this? Or would it be better to find a new jeep and part out this one?
CF Veteran
I'm the guy who the neighborhood kids came to to have their training wheels removed in 1970. "best of luck, watch out for Chrysler's"
You "baked" it?.... Fine. I get that stuff that it's attached to it is somewhat "smashed up" (body damage).
The 4.o might be pretty tough. Did you do 5 or seven cranks with that meter?, (on the second meter that maybe worked). Your numbers are odd.
Those of us looking for a good "short block" , At the JY just love it when somebody, "throws in the towel" to soon.
DO A GOOD WET/DRY TEST, (MAYBE WITH HELP. If the numbers don't change allot just the head?????
How many miles on the odometer? These are tough motors. Yea, maybe best to just move on, but you ARE here, and my .o2 is to diagnose the "pathology"



You "baked" it?.... Fine. I get that stuff that it's attached to it is somewhat "smashed up" (body damage).
The 4.o might be pretty tough. Did you do 5 or seven cranks with that meter?, (on the second meter that maybe worked). Your numbers are odd.
Those of us looking for a good "short block" , At the JY just love it when somebody, "throws in the towel" to soon.
DO A GOOD WET/DRY TEST, (MAYBE WITH HELP. If the numbers don't change allot just the head?????
How many miles on the odometer? These are tough motors. Yea, maybe best to just move on, but you ARE here, and my .o2 is to diagnose the "pathology"




CF Veteran
Quote:
Is 22 minutes worth WHAT? Originally Posted by denbjornen
Is it worth it though? Based on the results?
I could do both sets in 1/2 hr, easy. (I'd use a few feet of 1/4 in. vinyl tubing to blow the oil in for the wet test.)
