BostonIrish

Anybody done this? I bought the 3 Oring kit from the dealer and a T60
Socket...the manual doesn't show how to do it...are there any walk throughs?

car5car

Yes.
1.Remove bolts.
2. remove adapter
3.remove gasket/o-rings.
4.install gasket/o-rings
5.install adapter
6.check oil level.
7.Check transmission fluid.
Disclaimer: I never did the job.

RTorrez1

I did do the o-ring change out on one of my other XJ's a long time ago. It is an easy straight forward job. Sorry I don't have the wright up on it. But, If you do a search you will find something that will help you out.

Turbo X_J

Right here man.......
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/oi...o-ring-127359/

DFlintstone

Here's another>> http://www.myjeepxj.com/cherokee-rep...filter-adapter

BostonIrish

Thanks...that's what I was looking for...gonna tackle it tommorow..see if I can isolate the leak..hoping this does it.If not I'm on to the oil pan and the RMS..

sthon

Once you get the damn T60 bolt out it's a straight forward job. I had to get a little creative to get the bolt off, floor jack and cheater bar.

Ahmed.rivera

I had to cut off the bit from the socket for it to fit in the space between the bolt and the chassis. I used a dog bone wrench with a pipe to loosen the bolt. Use the same procedure to put it back together. I used petrolatum to slip the o-rings into the adapter.

mike mike

I popped the T60 bit out of the socket and put 2 box end wrenches on the bit. One up, one down, with a 2ft cheater on each. The kid and I worked for a hour to bust it loose and bent both wrenches. When I did my engine swap, with the motor on the stand. Of course that one came right out no problem.

BostonIrish

I just spent 3 hrs..on this..busted 2 12mm wrenches...wtf..I think I pulled my shoulder out and this still wont budge! Is there a seal on the distributor? That was wet too... I can't believe anything this tight could leak!

sthon

There should be gasket/seal on the distributor. That damn T60 can be a real pita to get off. I had to use a breaker bar and a floor jack, it lifted the engine a good half inch before it finally broke free.

DFlintstone

Friends say I'm not paranoid, I'm "octonoid" (my house has 8 walls).

Why on earth did they make that so tough, with rings that WILL harden and leak? That could ruin an engine! (one day)

I have a new Chinese compressor with a neat groove so the oil drips really slowly. Given time it too will fail. (I filed the whole housing to be rid if it)

Warming/heating the "female" (of anything), then delivering a shock, a "whack", WHILE applying torque will sometimes help free something seized. The crisp shot can "magnify" what you get from just torque. Maybe a helper, with a good (2 lb) hammer and a section of pipe to deliver the whack, while you do the torque? (that would be "rotational ...the pipe would be some inches out on the wrench/cheater).

So bring your best ammo, and a friend with a single Jack, (hand sledge) warm up the engine, and crack that nut!

ajdance

I've 2 spent plus hours trying to get the T-60 to break loose and still no luck. Whoever designed this POS should be nutered or something. Back to the drawing board.

ZINGGG

I have been having a hard time fitting a regular T60 socket and wrench up there so I picked up one of these guys:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Felo-0715730...r#ht_871wt_936

Just got it in the mail today and all I did was test fit it to make sure I'd be able to fit it up there, and it'll work. Next oil change, I'll be trying to get the adaptor off. After reading this, it looks like it's going to take a little work

cdhebert

This is how I fixed mine...