Please let us know the end result, don't take it personally George , you can't win them all , as a tech for twenty years myself i know how frustrating it can be!
take care
Brent

 

Hi George. I feel your pain. I own a '92 XJ, which is not equipped with this SKIM system, however I've been dealing with a similar issue. My jeeper has been immobile for 4 days now, and I feel the same way. I've tried everything 3 times, and still nothing. However, I'm sure that my problem has to do with a restriction of power to the fuel system, not the ignition system. I say this because I can't hear the fuel pump or the relays cycle when I cycle the key. At first this was a problem that could be tolerated, took anywhere from a minute to 5 to 10 to get it started, until finally it just wouldn't start. I'm about to start diving into the ignition system, but I'm still convinced the culprit is in the wiring between the fuse/relay block and the fuel pump. GRR! So frusterating...

 

Thanks guys.

The owner is going to call the local dealership tomorrow, but I also passed on your suugestion about the earlier model PCM swap Brent and that made his ears ***** up as he apparently knows where he may be able to get one.

Either way we'll find out soon enough as to what fixes it and I'll let you know.

Thanks again guys,

Regards,
George.

 

Hi Guys,

Just thought I'd post a quick follow up to this sad tale of the '98 Cherokee that wouldn't start, and unfortunately it's not good news.

The vehicle was towed to our local Chrysler dealer after I was forced to accept defeat and admit that I couldn't get it running, but after spending two weeks in the hands of the local dealership it's *still* not running and is in exactly the same state as when I last played with it.

I got a call from the dealer this afternoon advising me that they've tried everything within their power to rectify the problem but they have no idea what's wrong with it and they've had enough. They want it out of their workshop as it's taking up space, and they've alredy run up a bill of some 800 bucks in diagnostic time.

So, not only will the car will be leaving the dealership on Monday morning in exactly the same non-running state as when it arrived, but the owner will now be 800 bucks out of pocket for the privelege.

Now you know why we were trying so desperately to avoid the "dealership experience" in the first place.

It'll be coming back here on Monday I guess, and I'm really at a loss as to what to do about it. I spent enough time on it trying to solve the problem before it went to the dealership, and as much as I really want to help my friend get his car running I really don't have a hell of a lot of time to be playing around with it. I'm in the middle of building a new house and trying to ready my current one for sale, and there aren't enough hours in the day for me as it is.

Brent (CaptainWoot) suggested swapping the PCM for an earlier pre-imobiliser model, but all of the pre-immobiliser models down here have a different connector (one large one for the older cars compared to three smaller ones for this one) which makes the swap impossible.

I know I've already asked for and received help, but if anyone has anything they think might be of some assistance I'd be extremely grateful.

Regards,
George.

 

replace the PCM with a new PCM instead and reset the old key with it... or he could sell it as not running and get his money back... lol

 

This statement caught my eye. Have you checked that you are getting consistent power to the power distribution center? Check the power feed to the ASD and Fuel Pump Relay on the PDC socket then turn the ignition key on and see if there is a difference. If power is consistant then the issue relates to the PCM that controls the function.

See if this info helps

 

George - I'm sorry to hear about all of the trouble with the Cherokee! Did you ever get it fixed? Curious as to what was wrong with it...

I'm in the same boat right now. I'm not a mechanic, but I sure do feel like one after everything I've gone through trying to get my Cherokee to run again. Unfortunately it hasn't happened. I've tried almost everything imaginable over and over again. Still nothing.

 

any news on this? im having the same problem

 

Crank position sensor. Had to replace one on my 96'

 

i have the EXACT same issue on my 99 cherokee. changed out a motor from a 96 to the 99 no start. it ran in the 96 and the 99 ran until the motor blew. i am getting initial voltage to the coil, initial fuel pump run and all the proper guage lights. just no power to the coil or spark at the plug. i cant find jack. i am completely lost.

 

I got an '89 cherokee that had the same problem but it would come back to life randomly (had it towed to my mechanic too when it wouldn't start but started when it got to my mechanic). checked the CPM. the coil, plugs, wires, anything that you could think of that involves the spark. check the fuel pump and fuel lines. all fine.

one day at the safeway, my cherokee decides to die on me again. fiddling around in the engine bay, thinking it was finally dead (needed it to be finally dead cause my mechanic can't find whats wrong with it if it starts), I accidentally touched the injector harness, which seemed to do the job because it started up again. so now, when ever the jeep doesn't want to start i fiddle with the injector harnesses and the jeep comes back alive.

i know this isn't a fix but, me being on a tight budget, works for me. its been a few months since i've had any problems. hopes this helps

good luck

 

crank position sensor fixed my problem

 

This seems like a good thread to ask some questions!

I have a 2000 XJ that is having SKIM problems, and I think it might be time for a new module, but I'd like a second, third, and etc opinion.

It'll start, run for a few seconds, then die, just as intended. Sometimes the Sentry light will stay lit, sometimes it will flash. I first happened about a month ago, and I got a stack of other codes, besides SKIM, so I cleared them, unplugged the battery, and the problem went away. I also pulled the PCM and cleaned all the contacts.

About the same time, maybe a few days before, got a burning plastic smell and turned out the blower motor resistor blew. Ordered a new one, and once it was in, I had NO issues. The new resistor blew, so I know I need a new fan motor, but right away the SKIM issue started again.

Question is, are they related, or just happened to happen at the same time? I am going to pull the new resistor and see if it actually burned, or if it might be the blower switch this time.

Also, the previous owner put in a Carbine alarm which I hate, but I pulled it's fuses and turned it off. It doesn't seem connected to any of this, but I may be wrong...factory wiring is so strained to begin with, I hate adding new stuff in to existing wires.

If it is the SKIM, is there anyway I can check it without a DRBIII, or do I have to take it in to the shop? And, if it is the SKIM, where can I get one, or, again, is that a dealer-only item? Really, it's RIGHT THERE....I hate the idea of paying someone to put a new one in.

Any ideas or info is greatly appreciated. Any questions as well, I am sure I have missed something.

THANKS!