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98 cherokee sport no spark

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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 10:42 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by old big red
Volt meter is good. Even tested a few circuits on my wife's car and got exactly what it was supposed to be. So your telling me the dark green wire with the orange tracer coming from the pcm does not go to the coil. Tested it multiple times and every time it came back with the same reading
The Dark Green/Orange tracer wire DOES NOT come from or go to the PCM. It is the 12 volt power wire that goes to fuse #21 in the PDC, which is fed by the ASD relay, which is fed by fuse #19 in the PDC.

Fuse #21 in the PDC also feeds the PCM and the Fuel Injectors.

A good ASD relay must be installed and fuses 21 and 19 must be good, and the engine has to be cranked over to get 12 volts to the ignition coil.

I suggest that when doing a cranking test that the fuel pump relay be removed to keep from pumping the cylinders with raw fuel.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 10:56 AM
  #32  
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Ok so I should replace those fuses and check again
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 11:26 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by old big red
Ok so I should replace those fuses and check again
Sure.

Here's a pic of the PDC with fuses marked. Pic is of my '99 but '98 is the same.

Fuse 19 is marked "ASD", and 21 is marked "Fuel Injectors/Coil".


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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 06:18 PM
  #34  
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Alright so the latest. Im now getting full power to my coil and I have resistance through my coil. Have power to my ignition pickup but still no spark. Rotor is turning inside the distributor. Could they have possibly given me a bad cap by some odd chance. How would I be able to determine if its something wrong inside of the cap?
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 04:42 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
The Dark Green/Orange tracer wire DOES NOT come from or go to the PCM. It is the 12 volt power wire that goes to fuse #21 in the PDC, which is fed by the ASD relay, which is fed by fuse #19 in the PDC.

Fuse #21 in the PDC also feeds the PCM and the Fuel Injectors.

A good ASD relay must be installed and fuses 21 and 19 must be good, and the engine has to be cranked over to get 12 volts to the ignition coil.

I suggest that when doing a cranking test that the fuel pump relay be removed to keep from pumping the cylinders with raw fuel.
And actually if you look in the Chilton on wiring schematic 32 the green/orange tracer wire does in fact go to the pcm. Even took out the entire secondary harness and followed it
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 06:57 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by old big red
And actually if you look in the Chilton on wiring schematic 32 the green/orange tracer wire does in fact go to the pcm. Even took out the entire secondary harness and followed it
I think it's actually dark green / orange (FSM - DG/OR), (Chilton - DK GRN/ORG) = A142 circuit, feeds many devices, such as the fuel injectors and other circuits.

PCM - C3 > C12 A142 18DG/OR AUTOMATIC SHUT DOWN RELAY OUTPUT
PCM - C1 > A7 K19 18GY IGNITION COIL DRIVER

Ignition coil connector ____

Cav 1 _ A142 18DG/OR AUTOMATIC SHUT DOWN RELAY OUTPUT
Cav 2 _ K19 18GY IGNITION COIL NO. 1 DRIVER

The FSM shows S137 as a splice connection in the rear part of engine compartment.

Here are some schematics ... (editor wouldn't allow uploading anything with higher resolutions)
Attached Thumbnails 98 cherokee sport no spark-565.jpg   98 cherokee sport no spark-0001222.jpg  

Last edited by Muddz; Oct 19, 2014 at 10:24 PM.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 05:16 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by old big red
And actually if you look in the Chilton on wiring schematic 32 the green/orange tracer wire does in fact go to the pcm. Even took out the entire secondary harness and followed it
You're dealing with power to the ignition coil (Dark Green/Orange wire), and you said you are getting power to the coil so what's the issue here?

Concerning the PCM: Now you need the coil driver pulse from the PCM through the Gray wire to make the coil work. Have you tested this?

Edit: Look at the wiring diagram in post #13 again.
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 10:13 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
You're dealing with power to the ignition coil (Dark Green/Orange wire), and you said you are getting power to the coil so what's the issue here?

Concerning the PCM: Now you need the coil driver pulse from the PCM through the Gray wire to make the coil work. Have you tested this?

Edit: Look at the wiring diagram in post #13 again.
Yes I tested and im not getting a pulse. Thank you muddz I was just looking at that diagram in my manuel. So since im not getting a driver pulse I assume two things.1 there is a break somewhere or 2 my pcm is fried.
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 10:50 AM
  #39  
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Here's a pinout of PCM connector C1 below (disregard the circled A4, that's from another issue). The pin cavity for the ignition coil driver is A7.

Unplug C1 and, using an Ohmmeter, read between C1 A7 pin cavity and the pin cavity on the ignition coil with the Gray wire. You should read continuity (less than 5 Ohms).

If you have continuity, replace PCM C1, but leave the ignition coil connector removed.

Using a digital voltmeter set to 20 VDC, ignition Key OFF, touch Gray wire the connector pin cavity with the meter (+) probe and the battery negative post with the (-) probe. Look for a very low voltage. If none, switch the meter to 2 VDC. See if you get around .01 to .02 volts. Repeat with the ignition key to RUN.

If you get no voltge readings at all there's a chance the PCM driver is shot.


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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 06:28 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Here's a pinout of PCM connector C1 below (disregard the circled A4, that's from another issue). The pin cavity for the ignition coil driver is A7.

Unplug C1 and, using an Ohmmeter, read between C1 A7 pin cavity and the pin cavity on the ignition coil with the Gray wire. You should read continuity (less than 5 Ohms).

If you have continuity, replace PCM C1, but leave the ignition coil connector removed.

Using a digital voltmeter set to 20 VDC, ignition Key OFF, touch Gray wire the connector pin cavity with the meter (+) probe and the battery negative post with the (-) probe. Look for a very low voltage. If none, switch the meter to 2 VDC. See if you get around .01 to .02 volts. Repeat with the ignition key to RUN.

If you get no voltge readings at all there's a chance the PCM driver is shot.




.
So I followed the test procedures and im gettimg continuity but when I plug it back in there is no readings at all. So that means pcm is shot?
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 11:46 AM
  #41  
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So out of curiosity what years of jeep could I take a pcm out of and put in mine?
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 01:45 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by old big red
So out of curiosity what years of jeep could I take a pcm out of and put in mine?
If you have a 1998 4.0 AW4, the only one that will work is from a 1998 4.0 AW4. Part number 56041 534AB.

The Chrysler part number is on the side of the PCM.
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