Weird deal & it happened once before about a month ago.

Seems like it's slipping off the line from a standstill after driving like 25 miles on a hot day.

Last time I limped it home & adjusted the kickdown cable. then the C/E light went off by itself.

This time the light stayed on, but the slipping seems to have stopped.

Didn't slip in reverse, or in (1-2)

It did slip in the O/D position & in the 3rd gear position.

Once I got moving the slipping wasn't so bad, but from each stop it was.

Last time I had the code read at Autozone. I think it was 0700, & that translated into transaxle sensor circuit.

Also it seems to give little hints that something is about to go wrong.

 

You have checked your fluid level and condition, correct?

CEL code 0700 indicates that the trans control unit TCU has detected a fault. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/gre...ads-here-6558/

(1)check your TPS voltages
(2) check your S1 solenoid resistance (check all 3 of 'em)

If the TPS voltages are out of tolerance, or there is a flat spot rather than smooth transition from closed throttle to open throttle, it should be replaced.

If the S1 isn't working, or is going south, you will have a problem where the trans will not select 1st when in 3 or D, and will not downshift from 3-2. It may start out as an intermittent problem.

PM me your email address if you eant the AW4 trans and diagnosis manuals.

 

PM sent.

I don't know where to check those voltages, or even where those items are located. I'll check back here after I get home from work today.

 

In order to check the resistance on the shift solenoids, one would have to drain and remove the AW-4 bottom pan cover. These shift solenoinds are subjected to extreme temperatures and because of that they do need to be replaced when they start to degrade.

However, prior to pulling the pan, it is best to have a transmission shop drive it to fully confirm that it is in fact those shift solenoide. If it starts off from a stop with the shift selector in 1 st. gear and then you manually shift it into High gear you can pretty much confirm that it is the solenoids beginning to go bad.

For replacements, use only the very best quality. The less expensive one are not reliable and will not last as long as the quality items.

Change the filter screen and the entire A.T. Fluid while the bottom is open.

The download pdf file that Excess650 will be e-mailing to you RE: the AW-4 Transmission will be very useful for you to have.

 

It is NOT NECESSARY to drain and remove the pan to check the solenoid resistance. The female end of the 7 pin connector goes to the trans and is an access point for checking the solenoids. Of course, when checking this way you're also including several feet of wire, but the wire needs to be intact as well, so why not check it?

 

Thank you very much for the E-mail with the Manual & diagnosis files.

They seem to be for a 1988, and mine is a 1998. I think there is a lot of helpful info, but I need to sift through it.

I didn't drive it to work today, but the slipping seems to have corrected itself.

My gut feeling is that it is either the TCU or the solenoid that tells it to shift into 1st upon starting off from a stop.

This fixed itself last time & cleared the code by itself too.

I am going to disconnect the TCU for one minute & see if the code clears.

I'l check back in a bit, or tomorrow.

 

You can pull the 10 amp fuse in the power distribution box under the hood rather than unplug the TCU.

The manual will work for all of the AW4s, but there are some changes over the years. After the RENIX series, the TPS became an unadjustable, 3 lead part. Its on the rear of the throttle body.

IIRC, '92-'96 share a common TCU. '97 and later TCUs need to be flashed by a dealer for correct software depending upon year. The '97 trans is the same as '92-96 except for some wiring that can be changed. '98 and later has a 2nd VSS.

 

Ok I went to Advance Auto, & these were the codes;

0700 Transmission control system.

And P0758 which is shift solenoid "B"

That solenoid is part # S9858, and costs $196.19 (Order from dealer only)

I had him clear the codes, & no C/E light now.

So if/when it happens again, should I order the one from the dealer through them, or is there a more reliable way to get it (Better quality).

 

Hi BuckShot

I didn't intend to infer that the Chrtsler dealership is the only reliable source for the shift solenoid replacement kit, as that is not the case.

In the aftermarket, there are one or two sources that the trans. repair folks buy from, and I'll have to look that up in my notes for you. My advice to you was to avoid, if at all possible, the lowest of the low shift solenoids, which will correct the problem for you. If you only plan to keep the XJ for another year of less the cheapest of the cheap will do fine for you.

Because the solenoids degrade by the very high operating temperatures, I added an additional A.T. Fluid cooler and placed it in series with the finned loop that all the automatics have in the radiarors.

This is really not an unexpected problem to be facing, but the dealers will try to maximize on their parts and labor.

 

I would not normally take the time initially to check the electrical resistance of the external feed wires to the shift solenoinds. Reason ; by driving the vehical around the block is the best method and quickest way to diagnose the problem. If the customer is interested enough, once the parts are replaced and the problem corrected, I will return the replaced shift solenoids to the person and show them on the multi-meter what the actual resistance of the old part is and compare it to the intended design resistance.

If I know from experience what the problem is, I don't drag it out so I can make my boat payment that month. I get it done and move to the next one. Dealer, historically, will run up the hours.

 

If I know it is a de-graded shift solenoid, I pick up the phone and order the kit. While the parts driver is in route, I have the pan drained and opened so I'm ready to put them in as soon as he gets here.

If I know from experience what the problem is, I go directly to the solution. The shift solenoids are partly electrical, and partly mechanical,

My customers appreciate my short turn-around-time and the money it saves them in labor.

 

Thanks for all this advice!

I'm having a tough time with the price of the solenoid, let alone paying someone to swap it out.

I'm going to drive it for a few days & see if it happens again.

I am also going to install an aftermarket cooled in the line returning to the trans from the stock cooler. But that has to wait until the weekend.

 

I bought my S1 from the Jeep dealer, and it was about the same price as I saw on the 'net from NAPA and Autozone. I don't know what brand NAPA and Autozone sell, but the one I got was AW.

Replacing was sort of a pain. I was working with jackstands in my driveway, so not a lot of room. My OEM front exhaust was in the way of dropping the pan completely, but I was able to reach the solenoid as its on the LH side. The pan bolts are small and lots of 'em. Removing the old RTV was a treat, and the new didn't want to stick until the surfaces were cleaned with solvent.

 

Buck Shot

The transmission pan gasket comes with the filter screen when you get them from NAPA.
Most mechanics I know don't use RTV sealant out of the tube as a substutution for a properly fitting pan gasket on servicing transmissions. The reason being that no matter how thin one spreads the RTV sealant there is no way to avoid having it spread out on the mating surfaces when tightening down the attaching screws. That ozz that over hangs the interior of the pan to case joint is subject to eventually breaking off and settling in the transmission sump.

As you know, there are very sensitive pumps and valves in the A.T. and cleanliness in important. When a glob of hardened RTV sealant gets drawn thru the valve body or pump you have wasted a perfectly good tranny at a replacement cost of $1,500 +

Transmission pans should by all means be sealed with a proper gasket ! !

 

Good to know, I guess, except when I ASKED for the gasket at the Jeep dealer, they looked it up and told me RTV ONLY. The product I used was made by Threebond and is described as a semi-drying sealant. It doesn't completely harden and doesn't make those little rubber ***** like silicone does. Mine was actually Yamabond as it came from the cycle shop and is routinely used for metal to metal fit like rockerboxes on cylinder heads and such.