97lifted

Ok so I have a 97 xj. It overheated before and the problem was the water pump. So I replaced it and ran fine. It happend again and cracked the head. So I've replaced the head gasket, put on new head, all new bolts and gaskets. It fired right up and went for a drive. After 10 minutes or so my temp went to 260. I just pulled in my driveway so I shut it off. I raised the hood and antifrezze was boiling out of my overflow. Not sure of the problem I've replaced the head and gasket new t stat and housing, new water pump and radiator isn't leaking. Oh and I forgot to mention when I started it up the first time after putting the new head on the belt is squealing louder than ever. Anyways I've replaced several parts and can't figure it out. I hooked everything up and poured antifreeze in it. Do I need to bleed it??? When you pull the rad cap off its nasty in their, don't really want to flush it because it's a 97 with 250k miles and don't want leaks popping up everywhere. It's been like that for awhile and never had an issue and ever since that first overheating episode I've had nothing but issues. Any advice would help
Thanks

Jeep Driver

Yes, you need to burp it by pulling the temp sender at the rear of the head.

97lifted

It's a 97 so i only have one sensor in the t stat housing. So should I pull the rad cap off and start it and wait until it starts bubbling out or??? I'm just lookin for answers that will work because I'm losin sleep every night over it because it is my DD

97lifted

The belt is squealing like never before. I tighten the idler pully then tighten the long bolt goin down by the p pump. I'm wondering if its to tight or to lose causing the water pump to not work and make a squeal?

Justjoshnya

I may be reading this worng but you know you need to loosen the idler bolt then tighten the tensioner then tighten the idler back up. If you try to tighten the adjustment bolt with the idler pulley tight you will probably just strip it. Again I may have read your procedure wrong.

Muddz

What do you think caused the first overheating problems before replacing the water pump and after cracking the head.?

The original problems are likely related to your current problem.

The method I use to burp the cooling system is only to partially fill with coolant (water & antifreeze) and add a little at a time over the next few days until reaching the correct level.

- While the engine is cold, I park on an incline and start the engine with the radiator cap removed. Having a flush T-Valve on the upper heater hose that's also open (without any coolant draining out). With the radiator only partially filled I keep the engine running for a while burping the cooling system, sometime squeezing the upper radiator hose.

I then slowly add coolant (water and/or antifreeze) until the coolant reaches to the top of the radiator cap, keeping the engine running. If coolant spills out of the flush T-valve, close valve.

Running the engine for a while with radiator cap off the radiator cap at some point in time is re-installed. The vehicle is then parked on a level surface with engine off, usually with the radiator cap removed and T-Valve open. At this point I usually let things cool down for a while. Over the next few days slowly add more coolant, with the engine off or running and cold, warm and sometimes hot.

Normally installed is a pressure release lever type radiator cap, to be able to release pressure and add more coolant while the engine is heated.

Muddz

I've had belt problems before that were related to the AC compressor's pulley. The alternator, power steering pump, viscous fan, other pulleys and tightener or tension-er are other parts that effect the serpentine belt.

I'd first take a look and inspect the serpentine belt, alternator, if you have ac the clutch pulley and the power steering pump pulley. Clean removing any dirt and oils. The belt tightener should also be lubricated with the pulley and slide tighten down correctly, occasionally it's not set right and/or damaged.

The AC clutch pulley, when worn, damaged or rusted sometimes intermittently freeze up with the AC either off or on, causing squealing. When it becomes really bad potentially will break the serpentine belt, unless the engine is stopped in time.

97lifted

Well I burped it this mourning and topped it off. Let it idle at 210 for about 10 minutes and drove a few miles and did good. I filled the overflow tank up and it about took all of it though. So poured more in there don't think its full of coolant yet just have to check it everyday. As for the belt I tighten it down and the after running for awhile the squealing is almost gone at idle and you can only hear it when you accelerate. I think it is still wet is the reason but hopefully I won't have any more issues.

97lifted

Update I burped it this mourning and it hasn't overheated since. I drove it around after work to test it and the temp stayed on the first has mark past 210 but didn't overheat. I only have water in it now but before yall start criticizing me for not runnin antifreeze all I had at the time was water. Anyways when I shut it off I heard sizzling at the t stat then heard the water go to the overflow and start bubbling. (Boiling) I know this can be fixed by adding coolant but in the mean time will runnin it with water like this hurt it??? Will it cause any damage to the motor or if I drive it a little longer distance will it overheat???? It heats up pretty fast but my aux. fan does kick on

Justjoshnya

Antifreeze has much better heat transfer properties then water.
Just my two cents, did you check the block deck vary vary good. A lot of cracked heads are accompanied by a cracked block. By my experience mostly on the front driver side corner and it can go down by the water pump and on the side of the block towards the first freeze plug. The cracks can be vary hard to see as they are sometimes just a hair line. But they open up when hot. Look around that front driver side corner of the block when its hot and full and see if you can see moisture.

97lifted

Ok I'll check in the mournin when I have light. I wouldn't think it would be cracked because I'm not leaking any oil but I will check anyways

Justjoshnya

I have just seen this many times with the 4.0. I have had customers bring them in after putting heads on and sure enough coolent leaking In the number one cylinder and compression from that cylinder going into the coolent system. It won't be a gizer leaking out the block you will just see a stream or maybe just some moisture and steam. Either way I hope im wrong and its just something simple.

Justjoshnya

Its only a water galley so there will be no loss in oil or any mixing.

GregGA

Good to know. Thanks

97lifted

I just checked it and the block aint cracked. I drove it around to see if it would overheat and drove it pretty hard to see. It rides a hair past the first hash mark past 210 but didn't overheat. I could smell burning in the cab but not under hood and no smoke. You can the water go to the overflow and when you pop the cap it is boiling but doesn't boil over. Like I said it doesn't overheat but it shouldn't be runnin that hot and want to get it fixed before it messes anything else up