got a cutting wheel from harbor freight for 15 bucks and cut a inch and a half off will test later


almost done with the floor i used rust converter then sealer then duplicolor spray linning

and here is the measurements 9- 1/2 front 8-1/2 rear 33 inch tires how much lift do i got?

can anyone answer the question about the trans cooler?

XJ's equipped with the towing package from the factory had OEM trans coolers. I believe they were mounted in-line and after the radiator heat exchanger. Probably not too common.

What's more common is adding aftermarket coolers and gauges, and you can usually score one cheap at the junkyards from numerous vehicles.

I grabbed a plate-and-fin style cooler out of a first-gen Ford Explorer for $10.You can use the stock Explorer cooler brackets to attach it to your unibody. I bypassed the radiator for now, but likely will reconnect it when it gets colder. I would mount it before the radiator loop. Less heat going into the radiator that way.




I also installed a tranny temp gauge with the sensor on the return line (by mistake), so it is showing me cooled temps. It's in the plans to add another temp sensor to the hot line & a toggle switch.




It's a great setup & works awesome.

good post. mine must have a factory one! theres a mount on the body and one to the oil pan i couldnt follow the lines further and the bumper is welded on, what do you mean by you bypased the radiator, on blazers the cooler is built into the radiator

About the radiator. About three weeks ago I had to put a new radiator in my 2000 Cherokee Sport, 2 door, standard trans. The radiator being replaced was a standard radiator, no built in trans cooler. The replacement radiator from Autozone has a built in trans cooler. I was confused but the instructions tell you what it is and to ignore it if you don't have a stock trans cooler. Based on this experience I'm guessing that some Cherokee's with auto trans have the trans cooler built into the stock radiator. Read the descriptions on the link.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-je9i2Z9pdak

2000 2dr 5 speed? Nice! Those are rare pretty much everywhere. Standard transmission equipped Cherokees do not have a trans cooler OR exchanger, nor do they even use the same type of fluid (gear oil, vs. ATF Dex/Merc III in the autos) The "exchanger" I'm referring to is simply a tank on the side of the radiator designed to bring the trans temp up to a certain temperature in colder climates. All autos are piped into this exchanger from the factory. Auto-equipped Tow Package jeeps had the external cooler in addition to this exchanger.

There's a lot of debate out there about placement of the external cooler, whether it should be before the hot fluid enters the exchanger or after...as I said earlier, the factory equipped models had it mounted after the exchanger. I see that as counter-productive, because it allows extra heat from the trans into the already-dinky radiator, and cools down the heated-up fluid from the exchanger. But surely AMC/Chrysler engineers had their reasons.

It was a lucky find, a DC commuter from new and it had the Up-country package with zero rust. About the radiator, do you know how much of the radiator is devoted to the cooler? Since I'm not using that portion of the radiator I'm just wondering how much cooling I'm missing out on.

I like the Gauge size/color/placement looks very nice KUDO'S for a nice install......well almost except for where the line connected

well i need more lift in the rear , tire got cut towards the front about 8 inches up the fender, it already has a nice gap from fender trimming. under 1/2 inch i filled with rtv! Could i cut a bit more then then force them together and weld, i only have a 90 amp harbor freight flux wire welder, i fixed the seat welds with it ok but burnt some holes need more practice,
trying to decide trying new rc 4.5 leafs or rustys leafs. will i need a shim will they give the lift i need? or a 3 inch block with u bolts or the rc 1-2 inch adjustable shackle
the last 2 options are cheaper and for-sure will add lift
im gonna guess the shackle on there now is the terraflex 1 inch
i noticed they don't move when driving could they be to tight, they seemed dry when i added grease and there is a bolt hitting the back of one from inside the bumper
ill get pics tommaro

Forget the blocks and go with a rear spring pack. The RC leafs are known to sag quickly as several members will tell you. The Rustys are all American made and VG leafs/springs I have been running them for over 2 years zero sag and the leafs have been loaded heavily for all that time. I will use his springs again as with most of his products, I've never has an issue with any of them.

Thanks! And yeah, I actually still haven't changed it. I keep telling myself I'm just going to get another sender and a mini toggle so I can switch in between.

Okay, a whole bunch of junk to discuss here! LOL. Pictures will help with what you are describing about your fenders...what exactly did you RTV? Also, that Harbor Freight welder is not going to work out very well for body work. Flux core splatters and burns too much. You really want a MIG setup for bodywork, especially thin sheet metal.

I will say I see more bad about Rough Country springs than Rusty's, but overall, Rusty's is known to have terrible customer service. I have experience with that first hand and after all I've read online, I decided I wasn't giving them any more business when there are tons of much more reputable companies offering better products and services. But hey, whatever peels your banana. As NOAZZ pointed out, you'd probably be fine with Rusty's springs...and that would definitely be better than using blocks. Avoid those and add-a-leafs like the plague.

Rusty's customer service has definitely gotten better over the years. I recently purchased a 3 inch lift from them, and they were super easy to work with. I'd totally suggest getting the Rusty's 4.5 inch leaf springs for the rear.

or Rubicon Express, always good stuff from them.

the Rubicon Express leaf springs reviews on amazon seems to be people are getting more lift then stated at random amounts,
i re measured to my cut fenders and got smaller measurements
9 inch front under 8 rear
rear has -add a leaf- 1 1/4 non tappered block- greaseable shackle unknown,
there is a bolt on both sides behind hitting the top of the shackle?












photos of the gap wouldnt show sorry but you can see where its cut too i only need a 1/2 inch more lift for now if i get springs, i may need shims- break lines-drive line
i still cant figure out what all the clunking noise is under the floor but the previous owner drove it 9 years how it is
i have rear bar pin eliminators comeing to make sure there not makeing noise
the rear hatch makes noise, would like to fix/ its missing interior plastic is that why ?
its looking good after waxing accept i scratched it up cutting the fenders was in a hurry