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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
The 8.25" 3.07 carrier will accept 355 or 373 or 411 for that matter, the D30 front is a different story, 307 and 355 use the same carrier but 373 and numerically higher need a different carrier.
the seller of the parts jeep provided the VIn number which I was able to run and determine it had an 8.25,355 with limited slip. I also physically spun the axle, counted the hub turns per yoke input and verified the jeep had the "limited slip" sticker in the glovebox.
I hear you on the rear disc swap, I have a set of ZJ discs ready to go on when I do the axle swap.
The 8.25" 3.07 carrier will accept 355 or 373 or 411 for that matter, the D30 front is a different story, 307 and 355 use the same carrier but 373 and numerically higher need a different carrier.
the seller of the parts jeep provided the VIn number which I was able to run and determine it had an 8.25,355 with limited slip. I also physically spun the axle, counted the hub turns per yoke input and verified the jeep had the "limited slip" sticker in the glovebox.
I hear you on the rear disc swap, I have a set of ZJ discs ready to go on when I do the axle swap.
I am leaning towards the KJ swap myself. Hear it is slightly more plug and play then the ZJ one.
Only don't have to Dremel out the backing plates for the hub I think though.
From the Build Sheet can you copy and paste the exact wording showing that it is an 8.25 with a limited slip?
I have run my fair share of VIN's but never seen one with the 8.25 limited slip.
Just curious exactly how they phrase it.
Or if you don't care can PM me the VIN and I can run it.
Thank you for that.
Now I am even more jealous.
I need the front coils off that Jeep.
Really.
The Up Country, you did mention it though, got past me.
Also you need to look to see if this is there:
Most likely lower rear corner of the driver's side cargo window.
Could be on the hatch or the passenger side cargo window too though.
If there and you want to sell it I might be interested.
You might want to consider grabbing the Factory Privacy Glass in that if you don't have it.
Jeep calls their regular glass tinted on a build sheet. But it is not what you and I would consider tinted.
Just regular glass with some sort of UV protection I believe.
I believe the Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass to be actually tinted.
I swapped all mine out. Rear doors, cargo windows, and rear hatch.
Doors and cargo I did myself. Hatch had my glass guy do.
Thing is I might have gotten one of the last window hatch moldings in the country.
Cause they can not be found anymore. And it gets destroyed cause of how it is gunked in when you remove the window.
Reason I did is cause the PO of my XJ used these crappy tints on the regular glass that turned puprle.
Would have cost me $200 or $250 at the time to get them removed and replaced with quality tints. Can't remember which but think it was $250.
I could have removed the ones from the doors and cargo but was worried about damaging the rear defogger in the hatch.
So $200 for the glass from the boneyard, $100 to my guy to remove the boneyard hatch window, remove mine, and replace with the boneyard one, plus $30 for the molding.
Figured for $80 more got tints I can't scratch.
If you look close you can see the turned purple tint in the top shot and on the cargo window compared to the left rear door that I already did.
Oh also find it kinda weird that an Up Country Jeep did not come with more options.
Kinda would have expected to see a overhead console, cruise, maybe some removable head rest buckets though.
Also that has the heavy duty radiator that comes with the tow package in there. That awesome. New I want to say $300 for one.
If you could find one to buy. Thinking all metal but not sure. Guessing a stick XJ has a different radiator then a auto.
Wonder if you could still run it though?
Figure just plug the tranny cooler lines?
The upcountry coils and springs are there, but I figure after 20years they're probably saggy. I looked for the up country decal and it was either removed or never there, I've heard reports of the decals possibly being on the lift gate glass but the lift gate glass is missing on the parts jeep.
As far as tint goes mine is factory and pretty dark already.
The upcountry coils and springs are there, but I figure after 20years they're probably saggy. I looked for the up country decal and it was either removed or never there, I've heard reports of the decals possibly being on the lift gate glass but the lift gate glass is missing on the parts jeep.
As far as tint goes mine is factory and pretty dark already.
Looks like factory privacy glass to me.
Nice Jeep by the way.
Yeah leafs would not be worth it.
But I kinda think that coils don't really sag like leafs.
A lot of guys duplicate the Up Country with certain Moog Coils up front and a specific Dorman or Crown leaf in the rear.
Thing is real Mopar Up Country leafs still seem to be available. Thing I don't think can be bought are the Up Country Coils though.
Cause while I want to do the Up Country lift, just for a look, remember only a DD, I am thinking about using the Mopar leafs.
Plus I already bought the Reproduction of the Up Country decal that jessenator on this forum did.
So at some point I need to make it official. LOL.
Was just outside staring at my Jeep and forgot to tell you one thing.
You will nee to trim your bumper caps if you got the big tow hooks like in that picture I posted from the internet has.
I trimmed mine the bare minimum. Some guys just cut everything under the hook out for ease of access.
From the factory they are not trimmed that way but thinking more then I did.
Mine is just for a look anyway, will never get used by me, so..........
Mine has cutouts, are you saying it needs trimmed more? I grabbed the Tcase skid today, agian the guy had removed it before I got there, but I took pics of the mounting locations, One stud in the driver's side frame and two nutserts on the trans cross member.
If you have the bigger, again like in the picture, IMO most definitely. The small ones might fit.
I have seen factory set ups with both. Look like these:
But don't think they were the factory tow hooks on what appeared to be a factory set up.
So this is the best shot I have of them. I went out and measured and I cut enough out and it measures about 7/8" from the bottom. The lower part of the new opening clears the tow by about 1/8".
Utility knife with a sharp blade worked fine here. Score it and keep scoring it and you will get to a point where you can practically snap it out.
Used masking tape to try and achieve a straight line. Thinking I did a cut out, mocked it up, saw I needed a little more, cut a little more, and got it where I wanted it
Oh and thank you for the shots. Want to say it looks like how I bolted in mine.
Update on this...
today I installed the Tcase skid and front skid. The Tcase skid I just used M8 nutserts in the factory locations. I also used the nutserts on the front 3 mounting bolts of the front skid.
while I was at the shop I verified that the 8.25 rear is 355 and has a LSD
Oh and I forgot to add ...the front skid used these studs along the Rad support originally. One 8mm nut on each side, one holding the stud to the body, one holding the skid.
