I just picked up a set of factory front tow hooks with brackets which were already removed, anyone have pictures of them installed with bracket locations? Itll help me figure out this puzzle.

 

First I am going to assume you own a '97 to '01 XJ.
Did you buy tow hooks for a '97 to '01?
I am not 100% sure of this but I believe that while '96 and down look the same they are not.
Mounting points for the bumper have changed. Again not sure that '96 and down factory tow hooks will not work on a '97 and up.
So this is what the whole set up looks like. Minus a couple peices of hardware.
This is a shot I grabbed off the internet for you.

The most important hardware I believe to be is the 2 bolts and nuts all by themselves in the picture above.
They are a torx and have a rounded head. I believe this was done cause where these bolts go through, hole in the
big bracket farthest away from the tow hook, the uni-body is where the sway bar is. And a regular bolt, the head of it, would interfere
with the sway bar. Everything else is pretty much just plain old hardware. So if you have it good, if not thinking hardware store.
I put factory tow hooks in my '00 and it is pretty self explanatory. Will require removing the bumper.
So while I don't have any detailed shots of the install, again really self explanatory, I do have this.

So if you look close you will see the to angle brackets in front, the long big bracket runs on the outside of the uni-body on each side, the little oblong ones connect to the uni-body
on the underneath on one side and sandwiched between the tow hook and the big bracket on the other side.
Like I said pretty self explanatory and once you get the bumper off and start mocking it up it should become apparent.
One last tip. There is a torx on the top of the bumper and the one for the bolt I told you about earlier.
I recommend buy the proper size in an impact torx. They are always 1/2" drive and won't twist as easily as a regular torx might.
The sizes are either T50 or T55 for each or both. Just can't remember which.

 

Thank you , yes I have a 98 and hooks are off a 99. I have everything in your picture, I assume that the factory bumper brackets fit back on the outside of the long hook brackets? The bracket that you says fits between the steering box is the only one that seems like if might confuse me once I get a chance to mock it up. I apologize for not at least trying to install them before asking questions. I'm just trying to eliminate any issues.

 

On the passenger side I think I can see the smaller bracket, but I cant on the the drivers, unless its utilizing the cadmium coated spacer shown at the red arrow.

 

First don't apologize. This why the forums exist. No harm in getting a leg up on what is involved in project before you actually start tearing things apart.
Having done this I can tell you it is relatively cut and dry.
So see the triangle piece on the long bracket that I told you will go on the outside of the uni-body on each side?
Picture just the triangle part. That is what is holding your bumper on now. You will not use those from the original set up.
You will not be putting anything on the inside of the uni-body one either side. So nothing will go between the uni-body and the steering box.
The brackets I think you are talking about, the angle ones, go in front. Take a close look at the picture I posted of my Jeep.
If it is the oblong ones you are talking about the the side with the 2 holes go where the bolts for the tow hooks themselves attach to the bracket.
Sandwiched in between the tow hook and the bracket. The 1 hole side bolts to the bottom of the uni-body up front.
Now here is what I suggest. Remove your bumper caps. And start PB blasting everything you need to remove.
PB Blast and try to give them some love taps to loosen up the crud so the PB Blaster can get in there.
When I did mine I told myself I was going to PB Blast every half hour, and give them some love taps with punches and hammers, for an entire day.
And take everything off the next day. Well after about an hour I got bored and decided to put a ratchet to one of the bolts.
It came right off. So tried a second one. Same thing.
1/2 hour maybe 45 minutes later the bumper was on the ground. LOL.
My buddy was with me in the driveway hanging out. When I finished I noticed he was looking up at the sky.
I ask what are you looking at?
He says the meteor that is going to come down and kill us. That was way to easy he says. MLOL.

 

Oh and the torx on top of the bumper and the bolt underneath the bumper attach to that triangle piece.
If I remember correctly they are screwed into something like this:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Not that exact one but looks like that.

 

No these are the angle brackets I mentioned.

 

Ah ok I understand now what you're saying on not using the original bumper brackets, thank you. I bought the hooks, along with front and rear skids all from the same XJ. I was hoping to get to the seller's house before he removed them. Unfortunately I did not, the seller mentioned the drivers small bracket being sandwiched between the box and body so that's what initially confused me. A pic of those smaller brackets installed would clarify greatly but I understand you not having one, I appreciate the help you've provided.....that reminds me that I ffg forgot the Tcase skid, I need to go back for that.

 

And by "small brackets" these are the ones I'm referring to, also the bracket the seller said went between the box and frame.

 

So I also put all three skids on my Jeep that did not come with them either.
The front skid is straight bolt. The front bolts to the lower radiator support.
The back 2 mounting points line up on your Jeep underneath the uni-body and if I remember correctly all will just use nuts and bolts except one.
The uni-body has threads in it for one bolt.
If you have the hardware for the front skid could you post a picture of it,
Just the ones that go up front under the radiator support.
I did not have the original hardware but nuts and bolts worked just fine.
Just curious what factory looks like.

The gas tank skid could be a little more involved. There are nut strips inside the uni-body that the gas skid bolts to.
Chances are you only have one on the passenger side. That is where that rear hanger for the tailpipe is bolted too.
If that is the case you will have to remove the rear bumper to put a nut strip on the driver's side.
Again pretty cut and dry.
Nut strip:

https://www.ebay.com/p/139959301?iid=382166833617&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt= 1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=382166833617&targetid=85635724677 6&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9003423&poi=&campa ignid=6470552628&mkgroupid=89345499032&rlsatarget= aud-298628318826la-856357246776&abcId=1139336&merchantid=10151264&gcl id=EAIaIQobChMI_L-I38Ky5wIVk5OzCh3xsQMsEAQYASABEgI_PfD_BwE

Hanger for tail pipe that is bolted into the passenger side nut strip that you most likely have:

So now the Transfer plate skid is a little more involved.
I am not 100% sure that I got mine on right. Pictures I Googled on the internet never really showed me the angle that I need to see.
And if I have a picture of mine installed I can't seem to find it in my computer.
I think I had to drill a hole in the bottom of the uni-body for the one side. Even though there are 2 holes on that side only could use 1.
And had to put a rivnut in there to be able to bolt it up.
The side that attaches to the tranny crossmember has to mounting points. I can't remember if I used rivnuts here or was able to use nuts and bolts.
Would have to go look. Pretty sure the holes were there though so no drilling was needed.
If the TC skid is still on the Jeep please take some detailed pictures so you can duplicate placement.
Also please post them so I can see.
None of my skids I bought were on the Jeeps that they came from so I could not see how they were bolted on up close and personal.
Front and gas are self explanatory. The TC is the one that confused me.

So the 2 holes I circled is what is sandwiched between the tow hook and the bracket. With the 2 bolts for the tow hook.
The single hole on the opposite end is bolted to the bottom of the uni-body. Should be a hole there and if you don't have the nut and bolt any will do.
IMO use Grade 8.

 

Thanks, I do not have the original skid hardware as they were already removed when I got there. I contacted the seller about the Tcase skid, I'll see if I can have him take pics before removing and save any hardware that comes from it. I also bought the rear axle from this jeep. Mine has 3.07 open diff( 4.0 5 speed) and the 3:55 limited slip will be an upgrade. Unfortunately the front axle had too much rust in the spring perch area so I'll be looking for a hp30 with 355s to go with the rear. This 99 parts jeep is an upcountry, which is just skids,hooks and limited slip rear correct? Or is there anything else I should be grabbing? The suspension does me no good as I'm on 1.5" rancho lift already.

 

As to the rear skid... I know I have nut strips on both sides of mine, mine has a 2" receiver. When I first got my XJ I pulled the receiver to freshen up the paint and both nut strip required a bit of fixing. The only question to be answered is if the skid will fit with my receiver. I know all receivers are a little different so that question wont be answered until I actually try it.

 

First of all you might not want that rear. Does the Jeep have ABS?
Cause if it does it might be a D35 and most guys will tell you those are the least desirable rear diff.
Now it could be a 8.25, much better choice, with the factory LSD. Which guys will tell you while the 8.25 is a better axle but not with the factory LSD.
That you would be better off with a lunchbox locker.
Both have clutch packs that seem to fail. My understanding is that it does not effect driving but is like having an open rear.
I have an 8.25 in mine but open. I want a factory 8.25 LSD rear. My understanding is that sometimes lunchbox lockers "pop" or "click" sometimes on turns when on the street.
I don't feel like being annoyed by stuff like that when driving but guys do say it is not that bad or happen that often.
Reason I would rather have the factory LSD is cause my Jeep is strictly a DD and feel it would be better for getting around in the snow which is what I want the Jeep to do.
I have researched this off and on. Everything I typed above is what I think I know. LOL.

It might have a factory tranny cooler which if you can get cheap enough might be worth grabbing. Grab the tranny lines to. Just the one coming off the top of the radiator that is connected to the tranny cooler.
And the line from the tranny cooler back to the tranny.

I am also thinking that the parts Jeep might have a Select A Trac transfer case. Which means the full time 4 wheel drive option.
Which I want one to replace my Command Trac cause it would be better in the snow for a DD. Cause you can drive around in the Full Time 4 wheel drive mode all day on any type of road conditions. Including dry roads.
Which would be a waste. On the dry roads I mean.
The Part Time 4 Wheel drive position should not be used on dry roads. The Command Trac does not have the Full Time 4 Wheel Drive option like a Select A Trac.
Also guys do say that the Command Trac is a little beefier then a Select A Trac. But not much. Plus not sure of the availability of SYE and hack n taps for the Select A Trac.
So if you think you might want to do one of those should probably research it first.
Also I believe that the rear driveshaft is different. Not whether you have a Command Trac or Select A Trac but whether you have an 8.25 or D35 rear.
And to make the swap you need the bezel off the console. The shifter gate. And supposedly there is a short wire harness that you need to make the Full Time 4 Wheel Drive light to light up on your gauge cluster when in that mode.
That you don't need if you don't care about the light.
Might need the linkage too.
Again this is a swap I have researched off and on and everything I typed here again is what I think I know. MLOL.

Any power seats, overhead console, removable headrest seats?
Might want them.

Here is the deal. I have put a bunch of options in my '00 XJ Sport that she did come with with.
So I have some knowledge of how to add them and what parts you need from the donor Jeep to make the swap work.
For instance I have put in an overhead console in mine that did not come with one. It is not that big a deal but you just don't take the overhead console.
There is so much more that you need to do this. Same with other stuff.
This is where research is key. So you have a better idea of what you need to do these things.
Having parts catalogs is invaluable IMO. Read this:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/research-249236/

So about the rear gas skid. You are right about it fitting with the hitch.
I think a buddy of mine had to trim something a little for when he did his.
It think he had the gas skid on there already and then added the hitch.
But not sure if the skid or the hitch got trimmed.
So you mock it up, see what is what, and go from there.

 

My 98 is non ABS and has the 8.25, the parts jeep is a 99 and is non ABS as well and also had the 8.25.
As to your statements about the LSD... I've also heard the clutch packs wear out.
My basic premise and plan is this.... I have 1.5 of lift and 30x9.50 tires. My XJ being a 5 speed has 3.07 gears. I'd like to regear and add a geared locker in the rear. But the cost is prohibitive. about 2 grand for 3.73 master sets, a carrier for the front , locker for the rear and install. Conversely I can swap axles out of an automatic and end up with 355s much much cheaper, the factory LSD is just a bonus, as you said even if its wore out it's still essentially an open diff.
Mine is 5 speed so the tranny cooler, which the parts jeep does have, is useless to me. Otherwise it's a pretty basic 99 Sport. No overhead console or anything. It did have fog lamps, the lamps were gone but I grabbed the switch panel. Mine already has factory fogs but figured I might need the panel on down the line sometime.

 

I am jealous. I want that rear. Thinking if I could find one, rebuild it, do the rear disc brake swap, and do the Command Trac to Select A Trac swap all at the same time.
Also throw the Up Country Lift that I want for my Jeep in at the same time.
The only thing I think, again think, is that when you do a aftermarket locker you need the open diff carrier and not the LSD one. They are different.
But you would have to research that. Also I think a 3.55 carrier can accommodate up to 3.73's.
Again not sure.
Just out of curiosity how did you determine that it is a factory LSD?
Also know as a Trac Loc by the way.
The carriers between open and LSD are visibly different.
Guys say you can see through the fill oil but I never have confirmed that.
As you said even a open 3.55 8.25 would be an improvement.
Also thinking you need to keep your old diff if the new one is an LSD.
Assuming I am right about a 3.07 carrier being able to accommodate 3.55's or 3.73's and if I am right about the locker assuming you want to do a one down the road.