'96 era I6 4.0 spark plug wires layout question
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Year: 1996
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'96 era I6 4.0 spark plug wires layout question
OK, Guys, I 've got some sort of "situation" here. I Am not sure if it's a big deal, but I really wish to do this "right", and so I thought it would not hurt to ask you. Maybe you'll through me a bone of advice here .
********
So I've got a set of plugs and wires from NAPA, as I've decided to replace what I have currently from the "pre-PO" ... also, I don't have any "history" info, as the PO owned this jeep for a very short period of time and he did not really know much about what and where was done to it...anyhow.
oh, the jeep it '96 sport I6 4.0 auto 4x4.
So, as I understand, when replacing the wires you simply "copy" the layout "one wire at the time"-method and that's the end of the story.
My problem is that I don't have much to "copy" here ..heh heh , except for which termial goes to which plug, (which maybe all I need to know ...?????) , BUT!!!! I really wish to actually have the "correct" wire to be used for connection and also I wish to know the "right" way to lay them out (or say, route them).
My current "set-up" is a mix-bag of wires and no "specific" order of layout, as I can tell from the fact that the plastic wire holder, that is mounted on the rocker cover bolts is not really in "use". I've got here four "Belden Premium" - the blue ones, then one grey "LongLife PowerPak blah blah" what-ever , and one poor thing "mystery" wire that is all taped. Please see the first photo attached.
I've numbered the plugs from firewall toward the radiator, for the reference.
So, now I have NAPA "mileage plus" wire set. Please see the second photo. I've named those wires for the reference, starting from the longest toward the shortest as: A1, A2, B, C, D, E. Note: A1 and A2 wires are identiacal (same length, same shape).
So my questions are basically these:
1. Is it REALLY important to have a "specific" wire from the set to be used for connection between a specific plug and a specific plug/dist-cap terminal.
2. If so, any chance someone here could please tell me which one, ie, for example: A1 wire for plug 1, A2 wire for plug 6 etc...
3. If it is not that important, then I was thinking simply use the longer ones for longer distance between the plug and the cap/terminal, medium for medium and shortest for the closest plugs to the cap.
I, mean, the logic must be simple, right? , I guess, but I still wish to double check with you guys before I just go ahead and do it.
I was trying to search for some picture/photo on the net of a "original" jeep with "original layout", on which it'd be possible to see how it should be there, but no sucsess.
Thanks in advance, as always.
/respects
********
So I've got a set of plugs and wires from NAPA, as I've decided to replace what I have currently from the "pre-PO" ... also, I don't have any "history" info, as the PO owned this jeep for a very short period of time and he did not really know much about what and where was done to it...anyhow.
oh, the jeep it '96 sport I6 4.0 auto 4x4.
So, as I understand, when replacing the wires you simply "copy" the layout "one wire at the time"-method and that's the end of the story.
My problem is that I don't have much to "copy" here ..heh heh , except for which termial goes to which plug, (which maybe all I need to know ...?????) , BUT!!!! I really wish to actually have the "correct" wire to be used for connection and also I wish to know the "right" way to lay them out (or say, route them).
My current "set-up" is a mix-bag of wires and no "specific" order of layout, as I can tell from the fact that the plastic wire holder, that is mounted on the rocker cover bolts is not really in "use". I've got here four "Belden Premium" - the blue ones, then one grey "LongLife PowerPak blah blah" what-ever , and one poor thing "mystery" wire that is all taped. Please see the first photo attached.
I've numbered the plugs from firewall toward the radiator, for the reference.
So, now I have NAPA "mileage plus" wire set. Please see the second photo. I've named those wires for the reference, starting from the longest toward the shortest as: A1, A2, B, C, D, E. Note: A1 and A2 wires are identiacal (same length, same shape).
So my questions are basically these:
1. Is it REALLY important to have a "specific" wire from the set to be used for connection between a specific plug and a specific plug/dist-cap terminal.
2. If so, any chance someone here could please tell me which one, ie, for example: A1 wire for plug 1, A2 wire for plug 6 etc...
3. If it is not that important, then I was thinking simply use the longer ones for longer distance between the plug and the cap/terminal, medium for medium and shortest for the closest plugs to the cap.
I, mean, the logic must be simple, right? , I guess, but I still wish to double check with you guys before I just go ahead and do it.
I was trying to search for some picture/photo on the net of a "original" jeep with "original layout", on which it'd be possible to see how it should be there, but no sucsess.
Thanks in advance, as always.
/respects
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Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I would just put them wherever they fit best. It's not THAT important. It is, however, important to put them on in a way so that they will not touch anything hot, or chaff against anything. Also, if you can, try not to let the wires touch each other whenever possible. It's not a big deal, but it will reduce the risk of wires shorting out through each other. Your logic is correct- just put the longer ones to the plugs farther away. Just make sure you do one at a time to ensure that the proper spark plug is wired to the proper dist. cap terminal.
-Brian
-Brian
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Year: 1996 Limited
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
Just throwing it out ther but your numbers are backwards. #6 is at the firewall and goes down from there. I just would hate to see anything go backward and mis fire for you or anyone else.
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Your firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 There should be a number or letter or marking on the distributor indicating the location of the number 1 cylinder terminal. If no indication follow number 1 spark plug wire to the distributor terminal.
The distributor follows the firing order in a clockwise rotation.
Cylinders 1-6 will use the long wires, 5-2 the medium wires and 3-4 the short ones. Then the distributor to coil wire.
The distributor follows the firing order in a clockwise rotation.
Cylinders 1-6 will use the long wires, 5-2 the medium wires and 3-4 the short ones. Then the distributor to coil wire.
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Year: 1997
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Good catch, I did not even see those number as I was looking at the wires and distributor. Tunnel vision.
As 91familyxj points out, cylinder number 1 starts at the front of the engine and counts up to the firewall.
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Year: 1996
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Cool, guys, I've got it. Thanks a bunch for clearing this up for me and pointing my "reverse numbering" of the plugs .grrrrrrr
Which plug to which cap terminal - this one is not a problem. It's how to lay the new wires around the "right way" was my puzzle, as each wire in the new wire set seems to be pretty "specific" in its design.
So I've got the "rules", I guess:
1. Correct cap terminal to the correct plug.
2. No contact with engine.
3. No contact with each other as possible.
thanks again.
I think I can handle this
Which plug to which cap terminal - this one is not a problem. It's how to lay the new wires around the "right way" was my puzzle, as each wire in the new wire set seems to be pretty "specific" in its design.
So I've got the "rules", I guess:
1. Correct cap terminal to the correct plug.
2. No contact with engine.
3. No contact with each other as possible.
thanks again.
I think I can handle this
#7
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0L I6
Hi, Guys. An update and question if I may
**********
First of all thanks again for tippin' me before I went into this.
So I had to puzzle a bit how to organize the wires around , and I actually found that it's kind of "better" to use the medium length wires for No.1 and No.6, mostly because of the angled L-shaped boots on them. I've found that straight boot is sort of hard to place and remove in that location, especially No1 , that is under the radiator hose.
And the longest went for 2 and 5, the shortest - for 3 and 4.
I've made the photo and numered everything there, just to clear all this up for somebody who may read this thread for the first time and to avoid potential confusion
*************
Sparkplugs!
So now I've got Autolite 985 plugs in, that's what they had at local NAPA. So far so good. Started right on, was warming up sort of the same as was before. Took the jeep on the road, everything sounds and feels fine. I'll have to see how it goes later.
My old plugs were Champion RC12LYC ..uhhhhh
I've made pics close ups. Guys, would you please take a look at them. What do you think?
I looked at Haynes "Common Sparks Conditions" chart, nothing there looks like what I have. From the first look at them - the first thought comes to mind - RUSTY!!!! heh heh ... It's redish coating stuff for the most, not sure if it's rust or what ???? Also, there is some carbon (?) black build up, if you look really close ....
Any idea on how to interprete this condition? Or is it a "type" of normal condition for an engine over 200K ???
Thanks again, guys
/mike
**********
First of all thanks again for tippin' me before I went into this.
So I had to puzzle a bit how to organize the wires around , and I actually found that it's kind of "better" to use the medium length wires for No.1 and No.6, mostly because of the angled L-shaped boots on them. I've found that straight boot is sort of hard to place and remove in that location, especially No1 , that is under the radiator hose.
And the longest went for 2 and 5, the shortest - for 3 and 4.
I've made the photo and numered everything there, just to clear all this up for somebody who may read this thread for the first time and to avoid potential confusion
*************
Sparkplugs!
So now I've got Autolite 985 plugs in, that's what they had at local NAPA. So far so good. Started right on, was warming up sort of the same as was before. Took the jeep on the road, everything sounds and feels fine. I'll have to see how it goes later.
My old plugs were Champion RC12LYC ..uhhhhh
I've made pics close ups. Guys, would you please take a look at them. What do you think?
I looked at Haynes "Common Sparks Conditions" chart, nothing there looks like what I have. From the first look at them - the first thought comes to mind - RUSTY!!!! heh heh ... It's redish coating stuff for the most, not sure if it's rust or what ???? Also, there is some carbon (?) black build up, if you look really close ....
Any idea on how to interprete this condition? Or is it a "type" of normal condition for an engine over 200K ???
Thanks again, guys
/mike
Last edited by Dr ZEE; 06-26-2013 at 04:06 PM.
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#8
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Year: 1989
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Should have been replaced a long time ago, but coloring is just age (I think I pulled a set out of the Jeep my buddy gave me that looked similar, my auto parts dealer said they were old that's all, asked my buddy about it,he's said "you have the change the spark plugs?"-he had it for 5 years), see the rounded edges on the electrodes? That shows the age there. Looks like your fine, bet it runs better since you changed them.
#9
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Year: 1996
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Should have been replaced a long time ago, but coloring is just age (I think I pulled a set out of the Jeep my buddy gave me that looked similar, my auto parts dealer said they were old that's all, asked my buddy about it,he's said "you have the change the spark plugs?"-he had it for 5 years), see the rounded edges on the electrodes? That shows the age there. Looks like your fine, bet it runs better since you changed them.
I drove it just a bit right after I replaced wires/sparks, just for test drive.
I own this machine for less than a month now (no history), so going through it bit by bit. It actually ran just fine as I've got it, it was just "unloved" in many respects, bad radiator, many "dead" functions, no heat/air, leaky heater valve, leaky/dead oil pressure sender, frozen doors etc etc
#10
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Like I said mine were gone too, but I never would have known, ran like a champ. I get better gas mileage now and a little bit better power. Jeeps are tough.
#11
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, sv41878, just looked at your photos. Nice Jeep ,
huh, mine rear bumper also had a direct impact , I say: so, it was "tested" ..heh heh
Question: where do I get that cool looking yellow-handled transmission dipstick (cheap! ) ???? Mine is kinda old, ugly and very rusty metal-ring handle type. Are yours original ones or replaced?
huh, mine rear bumper also had a direct impact , I say: so, it was "tested" ..heh heh
Question: where do I get that cool looking yellow-handled transmission dipstick (cheap! ) ???? Mine is kinda old, ugly and very rusty metal-ring handle type. Are yours original ones or replaced?
#13
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If I really get into wasting time, I may de-rust it and spray paint Gold huh huh , meanwhile I have serious stuff to worry about, I still need to go through brakes, I've got the grease gun (finally ), and still have not done the dirty job, then my transmission mount look mooshy crapy, few other things... and it's getting colder day by day, I'm running out of time
#14
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Oh I know how that is, I'm in Syracuse and got a bunch of stuff to do before winter hits. It's only like 35 outside right now.