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96 Cherokee sitting for 8 years bad fuel

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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 09:02 PM
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Default 96 Cherokee sitting for 8 years bad fuel

I picked this up today, 120K on it. For whatever reason (we'll see) it's been sitting for a LONG time, but I was able to drive it into the garage at least, running pretty rough. So anyone have any idea how deep I'll likely need to go to remedy the nasty fuel contamination? Haven't done a thing yet. First of all, can I drain this tank or do I need to pull it? Is it possible that just new gas will do the trick? Next would be a fuel filter (seems obvious), then I could get the injectors cleaned, or would some chem froth in the tank do it possibly? I've never rescued a car that's been sitting for this long, how bad could it be? Not much experience with ancient gas syndrome, any tips appreciated.
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 09:41 PM
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While not an answer to your question, you should change ALL the fluids: oil, trans, t-case, differentials, and brake fluid. They build up condensation, etc. and are no longer good. Not sure about the windshield washer fluid. ;^)
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 10:04 PM
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Yeah, will do thanks. I was thinking about trying save the washer fluid by boiling and running it thru a britta. Been reading about draining these tanks, apparently it can be a bit of a PIA.

Last edited by Childeric; Sep 17, 2014 at 10:36 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 12:46 AM
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Boiling washer fluid will drive the alcohol out and ruin it.

How much old gas is left in the tank?
Probably easiest to siphon the old gas out, then fill it all the way up to dilute what's left behind and toss a big can of Techron or another decent fuel system cleaner in there.
Agreed on changing all the fluids once you determine if it's worth keeping.
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 03:21 AM
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"Boiling washer fluid will drive the alcohol out and ruin it."

Oh man, I done-been one upped.. oh wait, it's not freezing yet so I ain't worried ;-)

I checked, either the gauge isn't registering or it's below empty, I suspect the former, dangit. I will try to siphon but heard that can be difficult due to restrictions, will use a piece of wire taped to the tube. Will absolutely try the cleaner first, thanks.
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 07:14 AM
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I would drop the tank and clean it out,New fuel filter it should be fine after that.
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 10:03 AM
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X2. While you have the tank out, check the sock on the fuel pump. Go ahead and replace it if it looks the least clogged.
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 08:21 PM
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Gad what a mess. Bout as bad as it could be without actually making holes in the tank. Here's my plan... spend 30$ on muratic acid and degreaser, 30 more on tank lining froth, wait one week for the leak, then buy a new tank Btw had about 1/2 a tank, someone halfheartedly made an attempt to fix it, dc'd the sensor cable, put in a new filter, found the bolts badly rusted and gave up.

Last edited by Childeric; Sep 18, 2014 at 08:30 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2014 | 09:00 AM
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So I had a 96 that had sat for a while and the PO stole the sending unit from the pump assy and left the pump open to the elements. I dropped the tank and the gas in it was a brownish redish mess. I rinsed it out with fresh gas, replaced the fuel pump and sender (JY find) and filter. I also replaced the line from the filter to the pump and the filler hoses (what a pain).

The J-bolts holding the tank on were rusty so I found a set in the JY and cleaned them up. That tank is easy to replace empty since the rear end is high enough to wedge even my 5'10" 200 lb butt under there to manipulate the tank to the filler hose and then get the straps partly on.

I then filled it up with 5 gallons, and hooked up a hose with schrader valve end on it to the fuel rail and then going to a bucket. I turned the key for the system to prime for a few time until the fuel came out clean.

Took an afternoon to do.
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Old Sep 19, 2014 | 02:39 PM
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In fact, just about ready to go put the tank back in. Yes, thanks for that recommendation of purging the dead fuel up in the system, I probably would have just tried to fire it up.
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Old Sep 19, 2014 | 04:55 PM
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Just a quick note. Lot's of folx upgrade to 4 hole injectors, even when their stock (one hole) are fine. The newer will idle and run smoother, maybe even give you a little MPG bump. I think they all have filter screens.

Oh! It's a 96......I think the pump/sender unit is a rare bird for that. Not positive though.
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Old Sep 19, 2014 | 09:04 PM
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Default No miracles yet.

Got z tank back in with mixed results. Running much better, picked up at least a couple cylinders lol, but lots of top endy nose, like sticky lifters. Got rinslone with new o/f hopefully they'll un-stick, hopefully won't take forever otherwise new lifters? Meanwhile, some noise in the pulleys, dc'd the belt and it got quieter, coolant leak not sure where, close to the wp so that's suspect, it's pulley seems quiet but a bit stiff (normal?). PSP sounds "clinky" other pulley's seem fine. I guess fix leak so I can run it, then probably replace psp. ???

Last edited by Childeric; Sep 19, 2014 at 09:11 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2014 | 11:50 PM
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I've ran tranny fluid in my PS for decades. I'm pretty sure it's high detergent. (I know nothing about PS fluid). In your shoes I might try running/flushing with that and see if it clears up.

Just running it and changing oil often is all I've got on the lifters. There ARE solvents, I myself don't know enough to suggest anything.
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Old Sep 21, 2014 | 10:38 PM
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I started a new thread called "very strange noise", that's what I'm concentrated on atm. Have a high pitched noise that comes on at most any rpm except close to idle, worse with just slight increase of engine load and goes away with more load. I thot for a while it might be the loose timing chain, I think it's not that loose actually and... the noise seems to be coming from the bell housing. I pulled the pan to rule out piston skirt, replaced my slightly mistreated rod bearings, outa laziness only pulled one main and it looked good so left them alone, will replace the timing chain tomorrow (Cloyes) since it was cheap. The TC bolts were tight, but looking carefully at the flexplate, I can see a dark radial line extending all the way to the ring gear, which I can can hook a fingernail on, but can't tell for sure if it's really cracked. After the TC and RB and confirm the noise is still there, I'll have a quick look at the valve gear and if I can't see anything out of order I think I'll pull the trans, the sound really seems to be coming from that area.
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