I'm not done yet it still drips so I think I compromised the seal with all that oil it was shooting out so I'm going to change to a much better seal

 

Well....you might wait a bit. It may have spun off the torque plate and coated the whole works in there....might drip for days....

 

Could be the pan gasket leaking. I did the pump and RMS on my 92 also a while back and it was leaking like CRAZY. I managed to eff up the pan gasket in the back. It was folded over.

You GOTTA place the gasket on the block FIRST, then install the pan. Otherwise the rear will leak. I used some RTV and a few pan bolts to secure the gasket to the block as the rtv dried.

Worked like a charm.

 

I'm still gonna change it for a timken gasket the way it just pours out it's gotta be compromised or torn

 

OK then....I returned the gasket and seal I had bought when I found I wasn't venting right. 266K on the origional seal, and THAT is not even on the radar. (any more). Myself I'd make darn sure that can vent.

When you approach 1/3 of a million miles...

 

It's venting fine I used steel line instead of rubber

 

OK guys my rms is still leaking if I cruise down main street it doesn't leak a drop the minute I give it gas to get up a hill it leaks like crazy I'll pull in my drive let it run a bit and it slows and stops I don't get it help!!

 

The vent not venting freely could let pressure from blow-by (gasses passing the rings), push oil out. Idleing and normal putting wouldn't push so much past the rings as getting on it. Idk. Gads! Sorry man...I know...Crank end play? A compression test, wet/dry might be a thought. A vid of what is coming out the oil filler when you power-brake it might be "informative".

How bout it guys. Still sounds like blow-by to me....

xj, how big a tube does it have? My old thing doesn't quite need it yet, but I have a clear 1/2 inch.

 

I used steel brake line I think I'm gonna take the vc off and check the vents from the inside

 

I'm sure that's what happened to mine. 98XJ. Was leaking from front of pan gasket. You could see the gasket had been damaged by the last mechanic who touched it.. I replaced the RMS and after spending 2 hrs putting the pan back on (stock xj, no lift) it was... leaking pretty good. I tried to put the gasket on the block first but couldn't get it to stay there. Had to clean everything again and then I put the gasket on the pan, attached with bread ties, RTV in the corners and all that but there is nothing to hold the back of the gasket in place so I guess it is folded over as well. When I do my suspensions I'll probably replace the pan gasket again, although it's not leaking too bad anymore.

 

Well i cleaned the hell out of the vc and took the baffles off the vents inside i drilled out the back vent so it could get more air and the front one i put a breather on instead of running it time the airbox it seems time be holding also my oil pressure went up alittle

 

Yea. just that's all I got. If it's free and there is nearly no pressure and still leaking, than it's the leak! Sure hope you got it, you defiantly put in plenty of work.

I don't get that affecting the oil pressure....Anyway the sock setup should be fine unless you have a s-load of blow-by.

 

I dont either it just seems more responsive also it still leaks but not as bad

 

Well, my daddy once told me....As the crank wears into it's bearings it actually moves a little. When it moves enough the lip of the seal doesn't contact as well. Back then, (depression days), a dealer might swap in a new seal so the car could be sold. Of course shortly after the buyer buys the car, the new seal can't deal with the crank being over a bit and starts pissen again. 200,000K? Might be pretty high miles. (not going to mention what multy -grade oil does if you don't change it on time), year in, year out.

If you were to clean it super good, then watch very closely with good light shortly after, you might verify that the oil filter adapter O rings are not keaking. They often fail, then it "mimics" a RM leak since it blows back and drips there off the bell housing.

 

^^^OK..."Huston, we have a problem".....^^^

I'm not seeing that 1/2 inch vent working right with brake line. Maybe I missed something? You want a good 3/8"+ (ID)("interior diameter") line to the air cleaner, that is not kinked. (from the FRONT of the valve cover). I'm not sure how importand the rear CCV line to the vacuum on the manifold is at 200K. It's a metered "vacuum leak" from the intake manifold to the crankcase, via the rear of the valve cover. Maybe a new engine at idle might use that for circulation? Anyway mine, (and yours), needs a good sized vent from that front hole. 1/2 inch into the air cleaner is fine.