88 jeep cherokee HEATER HOSE LINES
#1
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
88 jeep cherokee HEATER HOSE LINES
can anyone draw me up how to route the heater hose lines using the stock over flor box or is there a way to customize it? im trying to put a jeep together someone elso tore apart so its a little tricky and im to cheap to buy a manual
#2
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
this is what i came up with any body done anything differant? that cheap stock over flow box sucks its cracked and there hard to find. Any one tried just running it direct to the heater core? seems like it would make to much pressure.
#3
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Year: 00
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, K&N CAI
You can download a parts manual, http://www.xjjeeps.com/tech_referenc...section=2&ID=0
page 1009 shows the heater hoses and each hose has a description where it goes. Your gonna need to replace that coolant tank if it's cracked, your radiator will never build pressure like it's supposed to.
page 1009 shows the heater hoses and each hose has a description where it goes. Your gonna need to replace that coolant tank if it's cracked, your radiator will never build pressure like it's supposed to.
#5
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Year: 1989
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: AMC 4.0 Liter
Here is a photo of my stock 1989 Wagoneer coolant lines setup.
#7
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Year: 1989
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: AMC 4.0 Liter
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#8
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
I have ran itthe same way just dont have that valve in there. It over heats and the over flow tank looks like its gonna blow up. Ive tried a new thermostat 160 degree still over heats. Now im gonna go to napa and get the valve cant see that making a differance but guess ill try. Got any ideas?
#10
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
Solutions:
1) Last I looked, you can still get the replacement tank (with cap) from Morris 4x4 Center (Google them - I don't recall the URL at the moment) for about $25 or so. The tank is good for 10 years' service, tops, as far as I'm concerned.
1a) Mac's Radiator (www.macsradiator.com, I think) has a replacement metal tank that takes standard caps. But, it's spendy.
2) See the attached picture for my solution to the heater hoses. I've been running that for years without incident. (The valve is a backflush valve, the fitting sticking up is a hose bibb adapter for system flushing. The heater valve was deleted with no ill effects.)
3) To prevent entrapped air, drill two holes in the thermostat flange, about 1/8", 180* apart. Install with one hole at 12:00 and the other at 6:00, and the system will purge itself of air.
1) Last I looked, you can still get the replacement tank (with cap) from Morris 4x4 Center (Google them - I don't recall the URL at the moment) for about $25 or so. The tank is good for 10 years' service, tops, as far as I'm concerned.
1a) Mac's Radiator (www.macsradiator.com, I think) has a replacement metal tank that takes standard caps. But, it's spendy.
2) See the attached picture for my solution to the heater hoses. I've been running that for years without incident. (The valve is a backflush valve, the fitting sticking up is a hose bibb adapter for system flushing. The heater valve was deleted with no ill effects.)
3) To prevent entrapped air, drill two holes in the thermostat flange, about 1/8", 180* apart. Install with one hole at 12:00 and the other at 6:00, and the system will purge itself of air.
#12
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
yes the holes in the thermo is a must both my jeeps have ran me for a loop over heating and all both times ive take the thermo out and no water in the head.
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Solutions:
1) Last I looked, you can still get the replacement tank (with cap) from Morris 4x4 Center (Google them - I don't recall the URL at the moment) for about $25 or so. The tank is good for 10 years' service, tops, as far as I'm concerned.
1a) Mac's Radiator (www.macsradiator.com, I think) has a replacement metal tank that takes standard caps. But, it's spendy.
2) See the attached picture for my solution to the heater hoses. I've been running that for years without incident. (The valve is a backflush valve, the fitting sticking up is a hose bibb adapter for system flushing. The heater valve was deleted with no ill effects.)
3) To prevent entrapped air, drill two holes in the thermostat flange, about 1/8", 180* apart. Install with one hole at 12:00 and the other at 6:00, and the system will purge itself of air.
1) Last I looked, you can still get the replacement tank (with cap) from Morris 4x4 Center (Google them - I don't recall the URL at the moment) for about $25 or so. The tank is good for 10 years' service, tops, as far as I'm concerned.
1a) Mac's Radiator (www.macsradiator.com, I think) has a replacement metal tank that takes standard caps. But, it's spendy.
2) See the attached picture for my solution to the heater hoses. I've been running that for years without incident. (The valve is a backflush valve, the fitting sticking up is a hose bibb adapter for system flushing. The heater valve was deleted with no ill effects.)
3) To prevent entrapped air, drill two holes in the thermostat flange, about 1/8", 180* apart. Install with one hole at 12:00 and the other at 6:00, and the system will purge itself of air.
#15
Last edited by StokeyBob; 03-26-2011 at 09:03 PM.