87 intake manifold, how to tighten bolts?
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 120
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From: leesburg
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So the top ones are easy, how do you do the bottom ones?? I can reach the one in front and see the one in back. Under the jeep with a long wrench??? Suggestions??
I did remove the airbox thats how I got to the one in front, BTW it was finger tight only, i could turn it with fingers....
I did remove the airbox thats how I got to the one in front, BTW it was finger tight only, i could turn it with fingers....
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 224
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From: Southern California
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If your '87 is anything like my'88, just make them tight. I had to use 1/4 in drive ratchet with a U-joint and socket. Even without the air box removed I had a bad time. Do it with the engine cold and don't worry about the torque specs, as a torque wrench doesn't work well with U-joint and socket combo.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 373
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
X2, its not as bad as it looks, you gotta pull the PS pump too. Use a VERY small bead of high temp copper RTV on both side of the gasket to keep it sealed up for a long time. Follow the torque specs and sequence, My PO didn't use torque specs and broke the very rear stud off when tightening it. Just try to keep the u-joint as straight as possible to maintain accuracy.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 842
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L
X2, its not as bad as it looks, you gotta pull the PS pump too. Use a VERY small bead of high temp copper RTV on both side of the gasket to keep it sealed up for a long time. Follow the torque specs and sequence, My PO didn't use torque specs and broke the very rear stud off when tightening it. Just try to keep the u-joint as straight as possible to maintain accuracy.
the rear stud was already snapped off when I bought it, so I just put copper RTV around the entire rear exh port, no leaks so far.
my only other option was to pull the head as there is no real good way to get the snapped off stud out with the head on the block.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 373
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Correct, I worked at a machine shop and we got heads in all the time with broken studs. The ones that took the longest and where the most expensive where the ones that the customer tried pulling out first. Don't try drilling it yourself....we used PB blaster, an end mill with a vacuum table that held the head in place, a reverse twist drill bit, snap-on easy-outs and a lot of experience.
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