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87 intake manifold, how to tighten bolts?

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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 07:27 AM
  #1  
hennigm4's Avatar
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From: leesburg
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default 87 intake manifold, how to tighten bolts?

So the top ones are easy, how do you do the bottom ones?? I can reach the one in front and see the one in back. Under the jeep with a long wrench??? Suggestions??
I did remove the airbox thats how I got to the one in front, BTW it was finger tight only, i could turn it with fingers....
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 10:03 AM
  #2  
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From: Southern California
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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If your '87 is anything like my'88, just make them tight. I had to use 1/4 in drive ratchet with a U-joint and socket. Even without the air box removed I had a bad time. Do it with the engine cold and don't worry about the torque specs, as a torque wrench doesn't work well with U-joint and socket combo.
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 10:58 AM
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L
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3/8 drive ratchet, a few extensions and a U-joint. you do them all from the top.
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
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Originally Posted by E-Rok
3/8 drive ratchet, a few extensions and a U-joint. you do them all from the top.
X2, its not as bad as it looks, you gotta pull the PS pump too. Use a VERY small bead of high temp copper RTV on both side of the gasket to keep it sealed up for a long time. Follow the torque specs and sequence, My PO didn't use torque specs and broke the very rear stud off when tightening it. Just try to keep the u-joint as straight as possible to maintain accuracy.
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 05:35 PM
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L
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Originally Posted by EVcherokee
X2, its not as bad as it looks, you gotta pull the PS pump too. Use a VERY small bead of high temp copper RTV on both side of the gasket to keep it sealed up for a long time. Follow the torque specs and sequence, My PO didn't use torque specs and broke the very rear stud off when tightening it. Just try to keep the u-joint as straight as possible to maintain accuracy.
yea you just gotta figure out where to snake the extensions, how long you need it for which bolt, etc. Def looks harder than it really is.

the rear stud was already snapped off when I bought it, so I just put copper RTV around the entire rear exh port, no leaks so far.

my only other option was to pull the head as there is no real good way to get the snapped off stud out with the head on the block.
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 07:06 PM
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0l
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Originally Posted by E-Rok
yea you just gotta figure out where to snake the extensions, how long you need it for which bolt, etc. Def looks harder than it really is.
I think I used a 10 or 12" 3/8 extension with a u-joint and socket on the end for most of them, and a 6" or a 4" for a couple. It takes a little head scratching to figure out the best approach on each bolt, but extensions help.

Originally Posted by E-Rok
my only other option was to pull the head as there is no real good way to get the snapped off stud out with the head on the block.
Correct, I worked at a machine shop and we got heads in all the time with broken studs. The ones that took the longest and where the most expensive where the ones that the customer tried pulling out first. Don't try drilling it yourself....we used PB blaster, an end mill with a vacuum table that held the head in place, a reverse twist drill bit, snap-on easy-outs and a lot of experience.
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