ya poor jeep was neglected but im gona save it you should see and smell the interior. but the price was right.

I don't have a picture of mine, but it looks like the picture on the right in post #2 or #3 of this link:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/t...e-oil-1137041/

Might be an Auburn LSD.



Look for numbers or a logo.

there are casting numbers but where there located there kinda hard to make out. no logos or brand names though. so its definatly not the stock unit?

Nope not the stock unit.

Do u think Mobil 1 wants to sell more expensive gear oil? The clutch packs in the Jeep TracLok r always engaged. They don't engage/disengage......one side or the other "slips" when needed (outside wheel turns faster in a turn).

No, There are a lot of sites that you can find that will tell you the exact same thing.....and not all of them are from petroleum companies.


LSD 101
Use a friction modifier.

Lots of sites don't know how a clutch type LSD works and a really slicked up/super quiet clutch type LSD never gets a visit to the dealership.....the service writers love that.....and a really slicked up LSD is almost as worthless as a open diff.....but it is quiet.

Like I said earlier, start out with a non-LSD additive gear oil. Then, if it chatters in tight figure 8 turns, add a little LSD additive (from the dealership) and see it it quiets the chatter. The whole point of a traction enhanced clutch type LSD is to have as much equal torque as possible to both axles and still be smooth/invisible/quiet on the street. The more LSD additive, the more the clutches slip, the more the clutches slip, the less torque is applied equally to the axle(s), the less equal torque to the axles, the less traction enhanced diff performance is available, it's that simple.

So Dana/Spicer is wrong and you're right?
Chrysler is wrong and you're right?
Every axle shop that I've ever had dealings with is wrong and you're right.

Gotcha.

Every performance axle shop I've dealt with uses zero, zip, nada additive in a clutch type LSD rebuild. They want the clutches as tight as possible for a compromise of best performance (equal axle torque) and good street manners. The new clutch packs r tested in tight figure 8 turns. If the clutch packs "chatter" in a tight turn, additive is added to the diff. If no "chatter" the clutch type LSD is good to go.

99% of driving is done in a straight line.....if it wasn't, we wouldn't get anywhere. The clutch packs do nothing in a straight line, no slipping, no differentiating, nothing, and they DO NOT need any lubrication when driving in a straight line . Only 1% of driving is done turning and that's the only time the clutches need to slip (a little). Service writers want plenty of additive in the diff from the get go so they don't have to listen to customer complaints about "chatter".......unknowing customers then have a traction enhanced diff in which the clutches have so little grab, because they r so slick with additive, that the diff almost performs like a open diff most the time.

Do it however u want to do it.......I'm simply telling u why THEY want a big dose of additive in there......super slick, super smooth, no chatter because the clutches r slipping way more than necessary. When the clutches slip, equal torque to the axles diminishes. I want as much equal torque to the axles as possible and still be tame enough to drive on the street. The clutches r supposed to slip (differentiate)......as little as possible without making noise/chatter in a tight turn.

This is true ONLY if the vehicle or transfer case is in neutral.

If the driveshaft cannot spin freely then when you finally are able to get the wheel to rotate the other will spin the opposite way, with great resistance.

But yeah OP, the picture does say it all.

This is all information I totally agree with when it comes to clutch type differentials.