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4WD Wont Disengage Properly

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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:11 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by t1320t
I've got the same issue w my '00. Sometimes it takes up to 1 or 2 minutes to disengage & when it does it sounds like someone is trying to rip the front end out from under the Jeep.
Originally Posted by Jace
My '98 XJ Sport does that too. At low speeds (like when coming to a stop) on smooth roads, the Jeep "bounces" up and down, and "sways" from side to side. Also there is considerable tire where. I have yet to find the cause. I am also hearing a vacuum leak (while inside the jeep). I've tried to pinpoint the leak but haven't yet. Am I even looking in the right direction or does the 4wd disengage electronically. I need to find a vacuum routing diagram... I put a Pro-Comp 3" lift on it, with 31x10.5 tires, changed the ball joints and ordered tie rod ends, also need to install the Tcase drop parts.
Originally Posted by jimmy
I have the same issues. However I do not agree that the best way to disengage is to go in reverse. Having to do so in not part of the "normal" operation. The T-Case is supposed to be able to go in and out on the fly.

Here is a scenario which is quite frequent around my parts. The State does a decent job of plowing the Highways. Various towns and municipalities do not. I will be in 4PT on a side road and pull out onto 22. Now 22 will be clean pavement and since it is a highway, its speed is 55MPH. If I am in 4PT, I cannot drive on it at those speeds. I need to transfer back to 2W. However, I have a line of cars behind me. I do not that luxury of stopping and putting it in reverse.

We all know many ways to baby our trucks to "make" them work, but that does not mean they are indeed working as they should! If the T-Case is not shifting in and out as it is supposed, something is wrong.

Now for mine, I have a 242 without the vacuum. I am just swapping out the T-Case and hoping that solves it. If not, I will have to keep looking.

Crazy thing is, you would think somebody has already gone through this problem and has a solution!
Originally Posted by t1320t
In my case the disengagement time period is hit or miss... sometimes it'll disengage quickly, sometimes not so quickly. Also, my 4x4 indicator lights in the cluster don't work but I do know that the the 4WD is working... is there any relationship between the two issues??
Are you guys on dry road trying to switch back? Your wheels need to be able to slip to come out, thats why reverse works well. Try moving into the loose rock on the shoulder when trying to shift back into 2w. And as for the line of traffic thing... Just put it in 2w before you get on the highway

Edit: read the manual for an 88 and it backs my theory of slippage.

Last edited by itsanxjthing; Jan 13, 2010 at 04:11 PM. Reason: I did some checking
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:28 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by itsanxjthing
And as for the line of traffic thing... Just put it in 2w before you get on the highway

Edit: read the manual for an 88 and it backs my theory of slippage.
If I put it back into 2w while on slick and icy side streets, I would never make it to the highway!

Your 88 manual may back up your theory, but my 94 says nothing of the sort. Besides my 242 is designed with 4FT that can be used on any surface, even dry pavement. My old 2000 XJ could shift in and out on dry pavement.

However, I think you did hit on something, slippage. I took my heep onto the side of the road where it was a bit mushy. I was able to shift in and out easier. So there IS something to slippage.

That makes me think there must be something in the front end or T-Case that allows for enough slippage for it shift on clean surfaces. Whatever it is must be broke.

Any ideas?
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:45 AM
  #18  
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Mine seems to disengage more freely on a lose surface also. But, crap, most of the time I disengage after I'm through the deep snow & am on semi dry pavement to ensure I won't get stuck. I shift it the same way I did my '98 TJ (5 speed) & never had this issue w it.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 02:38 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jimmy
If I put it back into 2w while on slick and icy side streets, I would never make it to the highway!

Your 88 manual may back up your theory, but my 94 says nothing of the sort. Besides my 242 is designed with 4FT that can be used on any surface, even dry pavement. My old 2000 XJ could shift in and out on dry pavement.

However, I think you did hit on something, slippage. I took my heep onto the side of the road where it was a bit mushy. I was able to shift in and out easier. So there IS something to slippage.

That makes me think there must be something in the front end or T-Case that allows for enough slippage for it shift on clean surfaces. Whatever it is must be broke.

Any ideas?
UIf your traction is so bad that you need 4x4 to move on snow then maybe you should be looking into new tires. I live in northern Alberta, a very snowy place. My jeep still only ever see 4x4 offroad, and when the drifts are up to my bumpers.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 02:53 PM
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Have any of you guys with auto transmissions tried shifting it in neutral or light on/off throttle action?
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 03:32 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
Have any of you guys with auto transmissions tried shifting it in neutral or light on/off throttle action?
Yes, and it usually helps but sometimes mine just gets stuck in 4PT on the way from 4FT to 2WD. If that happens the only sure way to shift it is to reverse a few yards.

On my jeep I think its something to do with the front tyres being a different model to the rears - they have a much more knobbly tread and possibly a slightly great rolling radius.

Shifting in neutral at standstill is perfect every time so I reckon there's a little winding up going on.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 04:32 PM
  #22  
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i would start looking into the TC. The movement from 4wd to 2wd
is made by spring action(not the hand lever) moving the shift fork
forward. if there is some thing wrong in that action it would hang up.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by itsanxjthing
UIf your traction is so bad that you need 4x4 to move on snow then maybe you should be looking into new tires. I live in northern Alberta, a very snowy place. My jeep still only ever see 4x4 offroad, and when the drifts are up to my bumpers.

If you re-read what you quoted, you will see I didn't say snow. I said, "...slick and icy side streets..."
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 11:36 PM
  #24  
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i would start looking into the TC. The movement from 4wd to 2wd
is made by spring action(not the hand lever) moving the shift fork
forward. if there is some thing wrong in that action it would hang up.
That's what I was thinking. I am going to try to adjust the linkage... if that doesn't work I have to pull apart the T case anyway to do a SYE so I will do some trouble shooting.
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 02:05 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
Have any of you guys with auto transmissions tried shifting it in neutral or light on/off throttle action?
sometimes works better, yes
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 03:45 AM
  #26  
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The big three, burping the throttle, neutral, and reverse. One of those three will generally work every time. Having owned four 242 equipped XJ's, I've certainly experienced this problem. I realize you have a 231 but the 242 is notorious for this disengagement problem. You can adjust that linkage all you want but its not gonna cure the problem. The spring is wore out or gummed up so nothing short of gettin in there is gonna make it function like you're used to.
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 03:48 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by DSMXJcrazy
The big three, burping the throttle, neutral, and reverse. One of those three will generally work every time. Having owned four 242 equipped XJ's, I've certainly experienced this problem. I realize you have a 231 but the 242 is notorious for this disengagement problem. You can adjust that linkage all you want but its not gonna cure the problem. The spring is wore out or gummed up so nothing short of gettin in there is gonna make it function like you're used to.
amen
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 05:25 AM
  #28  
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Right, getting the t/case oil changed today - maybe that'll shift some gunk. If not it'll have to go on the "too difficult" spike until summer!
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 10:10 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by DSMXJcrazy
The spring is wore out or gummed up so nothing short of gettin in there is gonna make it function like you're used to.
Looking at the FSM there are TWO springs inside the 242 T-Case. The first is the Fork Spring, the second is part of a bushing and spring combo. Both sit on either side of the fork assembly:





Inside the 231 T-Case there is only ONE, and it look much easier to replace. The fork assembly sits on top of the spring:


Looking at this I can see where if the springs are not functional that it could make it difficult to disengage the gears!

Now does anybody know the Part #'s!?
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 07:48 PM
  #30  
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The big three, burping the throttle, neutral, and reverse. One of those three will generally work every time. Having owned four 242 equipped XJ's, I've certainly experienced this problem. I realize you have a 231 but the 242 is notorious for this disengagement problem. You can adjust that linkage all you want but its not gonna cure the problem. The spring is wore out or gummed up so nothing short of gettin in there is gonna make it function like you're used to.
amen
I see what you guys mean. At first I though you were saying I wasn't shifting it right but you were actually pointing out the problem. Well the only good part of this is I have to pull it apart anyway to put in the SYE so I can attempt to fix it then.
Looking at this I can see where if the springs are not functional that it could make it difficult to disengage the gears!

Now does anybody know the Part #'s!?
I will look around in a few of my books and see if the give part #s Thanks for the help everyone!
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