Ironman4x4fab long arms: $629 shipped
Rusty's offroad 4.5 coil springs: $150 shipped
Rusty's offroad 5"-6" shocks(need for long arm): $90 shipped
OE 95 chevy 1500 v8 2wd brake lines (28" lines): $30 a set at parts store
Claytons Long Arm Crossmember: $375 shipped


so with shipping your looking at $1300.

rusty's kit is $930 shipped for just the arms and crossmember

 

so your saying....iron man arms, rustys crosmember, those shocks and some brake lines?? thats alittle more then 1000...the crosmember is like, 370, those arms are 550+70 for shipping, and then shocks are 300, and the brake lines i want are 80. throw 1.5 shackles with my 3 inch leaves (i think this would actually give more flex then just 4.5 inch leaves) its ok. ill figure it out when i get the funds. i also have a 98 VW jetta to put some coil overs on and a new clutch in as my daily driver...the coil overs are only 400$ and its a fun commuter car compared to the jeep.



just read your other post...that seems like a good deal, but id rather have the blisten 5100s...ill have to save up, but i have no problems putting a decent amount of money into this thing. my gpop gave it to me for my 18th bday, and he passed away in march...so as long as i keep the job i have ill be building this thing for a while.

 

vw's are alot of fun, but look at what i just posted.

 

yea man i got it, i edited my other post. im checking out clayton offroad now.


the crossmember doesnt wrap around the unibody like the rustys or RC does....

 

are you talking about the claytons crossmember? yes it gets welded on. I never trust a crossmember thats been bolted on. the holes like to wallow out.

 

x2

the only cross member better than claytons i think is RE's it even incorporates the pinch seam under the door jams. The whole thing is just absolutely massive!

but its also about 600 from the crossmember alone

 

ok. i was just reading that welding onto the unibody tends to stress it out. the welds might not break, but the unibody around the welds might...but if it bolts to the factory holes, then welds on, its probably worth it. thanks for the help!

 

unibody wont break as long as you set your heat correctly and weld in the right places

 

When you weld anything to a XJ frame you use lower heat.
Look at T&T Customs long arm and frame stiffeners. Though I haven't bought one yet. It looks like one of the best long arm kits I've seen.
1) http://tntcustoms.com/y-linkupgradexj.aspx
2) http://tntcustoms.com/uni-bodystiffeners.aspx

Those 2 links are of what I'm blabbin about.
I was considering the Rusty's long arm kit as well, but after seeing this one I think over all it's a better kit.

 

I went drop brackets for my setup and im running about 6.5" of lift - plenty of flex (actually too much since shocks are too long) and running limiting straps

Long arms are just a pricey way to get on road comfort and rediculous flex :P

IMO - drop brackets

 

i wonder if i could get just the crossmember...

 

With T&T customs, they call it the belly pan. That thing is just crazy beefy. And yes you can just get the belly pan. Cool folks too. I've been chatting with them to sort out my own ideas and future LA plans.
But shop around. The internet is at your finger tips. There are alot of things on the market these days.
Clayton, Rusty's, RE (thought I find these way over priced), T&T Customs, Treks. There's alot! I recently heard some not so great info on BDS long arm set. Mainly the quality of metal being used. Though they have a great rep.
And personally I just think Rough Country sux. But RC has the bets price.
Some of these "Bolt on" LA kits can always be welded on. Just make sure your okay with your height and whatnot.

 

i honestly didnt know about T&T customs, or Claytons, or Treks....but i do know about Ironrock offroad. their kit is weird though, it only has a 3 arm kit...it doesnt have a passenger side upper arm...

 

less binding=more flex

one less upper bushing= more stress on the single

Id buy/ build (if i where you) a kit that has both uppers and take one out (pass side) for wheeling/flex

 

treks is made by t&t. both t&t and clayton make great radius arm kits