beltfeed2002

I make no claim on being a mechanic, but on my 2006 Wrangler I installed the body lift, suspension lift, supercharger, JB conv. Super short SYE, and I huge pile of JKS goodness, etc, and even did my own front end alignment. NO other person ever worked on it.

So when I sold it ( to finance Momma's Expedition EL, for our 4 kids) and bought a cherokee, I THOUGHT i'd be just fine with some minor wrenching....


I invented swear words trying to get the pan out of my 98 4 wd Cherokee Ltd. The chilton manual said to remove the motor mount bolts.

DO NOT REMOVE THE MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS!!!!

Not only was this a huge pain, it still did NOT give enough clearance to drop the pan. (** insert uncontrolled swearing and wrench throwing here**) It took an hour and some help to get the engine back into alignment to get the bolts back in.
I lifted the jeep with front wheels off the ground and supported with jack stands. Remove the starter and the bolts to the lower control arms at the axle. next remove all the pan bolts. use a ratched strap around the axle to the sway bar and give enough ratchets to drop the pan.

beltfeed2002

Got the new oil pump installed and used some of the kids play doh to check the clearances. worked the pan a bit with a ball peen and all is well...

WRONG.

The way I see it I have two options.
1. pull the engine so I can turn it over to install the friggin gasket. or
2. Use alien technology to reverse gravity so the *&%$# gasket will stay in place.

912fourtysx

maybe if you try to put the gasket on with a little extra gasket maker so it will stick you may have to hold it there a minute or two but that might help then try it. also to make it easier why dont you just drop whatever is in the way of the pan removal it may be more work in the long run but it will turn out being smarter.
well just my two cents on this but if all else fails be patient lol

TheGreatGazoo

Its Called "Hi Tack" sold in all auto parts store to glue the gasket to the block up side down and hepls make a great seal.

XJUSMC

That's the alien technology I was looking for.

TheGreatGazoo

LOL

5-90

That's why I give the advice I have - you can find it if you search. Short form:

- Always use the late (1996-up) oil sump gasket. It's one-piece moulded "rubber" - and saves much swearing.

- If you don't have a lift, jack the front end up to full droop and leave an inch or so under the front wheels - just in case.

- If you need more room, you can use the OEM tyre changing jack between the frame rail and axle tube to get some.

- If you still need room, remove the four stud nuts on the transmission mount cushion and use your floor jack to lift under the transfer case - this is usually worth another inch (and between this and the tip before, you can usually get the pan out without dismembering your front suspension.)

- I've done an oil sump on 3" of lift with all four feet on the ground, so you don't need a great deal of room. Three inches is plenty. I've done a few oil sumps and rear mains on stockers - and I've not had to take the front end apart to get to them.

- While you're at the parts house, get a stud kit for Small Block Chevvy stamped valve covers. Install about four of them - one on each side, near each end. This allows you to hold everything up with one hand while starting nuts with the other, and saves more evil words. You can also go to the hardware store and get studs there - or cut them out of 1/4"-20 threaded rod (cut 1" to 1.25" long. Use LocTite #242 to install. Go finger tight.)

- Do not torque any screws until you have them all in place! Trust me on this one...

- Replacement screws: the small ones are 1/4"-20x1/2", the large ones are 5/16"-18x3/4". I usually use socket heads. Why? Because, if I need to get some leverage to line up a hole, it's easier to do when I can see the end of the screw (and the key will bottom out in the screw, allowing me to "push" on it a little harder.)

- VERY IMPORTANT - Torque 1/4" screws to 7 pound-feet/84 pound-inches, 5/16" screws to 11 pound-feet/132 pound-inches.

- Using the late gasket, I've not had to use sealer (which I prefer - those rails can be a pain to get clean, especially with engine oil dripping in your face and up your nose.) Another bonus!

I'm sure there's more I've mentioned, and I'm working on a more comprehensive list of specific hints to put on my site, but that's most of it right there.

Tomma349

Where is the best place to buy either OEM or high volume pumps?

freegdr

i was having oil pressure probs last week i picked up one from napa for 85 dollars in stock it nwas a speed pro brand if you need it

1991Jeep_Man

I'm gonna have to be doing this as well. I think my oil pump has become killed, and Im getting a high volume pump and pickup from NAPA. Sealed Power from Federal-Mogul IIRC. Im also gonna replace the rear main seal while Im down there. Is this stud kit mentioned above neccesary? Or is it a means to hold the oil pan up and put nuts on the ends?

freegdr

my pan gasket came with plastic threaded insert that held the gasket until i got all the other bolts in, it will help

1991Jeep_Man

You also said that you used a high flow pump right? From NAPA? Did it fit in the oil pan with no clearance issues? I've read that some people had to hit their pan with a hammer to make clearance for the high flow pump.