Shocked... Extremely poor quality plastic driver side electric window guidance in my Jeep Cherokee Limited 2001 - I'm driving a Jeep to NOT have this kind of **** after 10 years and 120.000 km....
Anybody repaired this and have some brilliant ideas to fix the cable to the plastic guidance?
Anybody used older model/different model window guidance that is of superior quality
I'd hate to buy a new part of the same poor quality crap (and in Spain we pay top dollar for original Jeep parts)...
Many thanks!
rgds,
Sam
Santa Maria del Cami, Mallorca, Spain
Anybody repaired this and have some brilliant ideas to fix the cable to the plastic guidance?
Anybody used older model/different model window guidance that is of superior quality
I'd hate to buy a new part of the same poor quality crap (and in Spain we pay top dollar for original Jeep parts)...
Many thanks!
rgds,
Sam
Santa Maria del Cami, Mallorca, Spain
searching the forum I found this:
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...ulator_Fix.htm
Extremely helpfull and brilliant!
Many thanks Phil, aka 'Maximus' from Ontario, Canada
rgds,
Sam
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...ulator_Fix.htm
Extremely helpfull and brilliant!
Many thanks Phil, aka 'Maximus' from Ontario, Canada
rgds,
Sam
Hi guys!
I did the job as suggested with two 2,5 x 30 mm "cotter pins" (we call them "split pins" in europe). Thicker pins won't do, as they'll not fit in between the "worm" of the cable and in the rail.
I guess it's an 2 hour job from start to end - easy.
I did it slightly diffrent:
- I opened the vertical guidance at the top. Where the curved plastic connects to the vertical rail. Drilled out the tiny popnail and un-bend the two placeholders.This way the plastic clip over the rail can remain in place.
- I did not chissel-off any plastic. I just flattened the top of the broken cable fixture and drilled 2 holes of 3 mm through the plastic and the metal. This way you still have the correct distancer for the rail.
- I took out the motor and disemsambled it with the 3 nuts. Slightly more work, but you can test the friction away from the car on your workbench. I also took the window control unit from the cover: testing was much easier than with the cover and I want it to stay clean and without damage.
rgds,
Sam
Mallorca, Spain

I did the job as suggested with two 2,5 x 30 mm "cotter pins" (we call them "split pins" in europe). Thicker pins won't do, as they'll not fit in between the "worm" of the cable and in the rail.
I guess it's an 2 hour job from start to end - easy.
I did it slightly diffrent:
- I opened the vertical guidance at the top. Where the curved plastic connects to the vertical rail. Drilled out the tiny popnail and un-bend the two placeholders.This way the plastic clip over the rail can remain in place.
- I did not chissel-off any plastic. I just flattened the top of the broken cable fixture and drilled 2 holes of 3 mm through the plastic and the metal. This way you still have the correct distancer for the rail.
- I took out the motor and disemsambled it with the 3 nuts. Slightly more work, but you can test the friction away from the car on your workbench. I also took the window control unit from the cover: testing was much easier than with the cover and I want it to stay clean and without damage.
rgds,
Sam
Mallorca, Spain






