How right you are about obtaining parts outside the US, particularly here where main dealers (not just Jeep) get rid of their parts as soon as they stop selling. I remember when Ford were very proud of the fact they still had Model T parts, now you'd be lucky to get anything much over 5 years old. I doubt there were any parts available from a main dealer, if you could find one, when I got my 1st XJ - & I'd be surprised they ever carried stuff like bolts.

I never looked at my spring bolts that closely, although there was no evidence of that black oxide, but I take your point about them not being standard hardware store stock. However I'm convinced all those features are that important - & flange head bolts are not generally available here. (not sure if they're Jeep specific, or peculiarly American - don't have a broad enough knowledge/experience).

Useful tip about the front control arm bolts, that's another source of spares for me, if I have major problems when I come to tackle the other side.

 

third coast - I found the 34202118 bolt on amazon. Looks the same and has the loc-tite. I'm guessing I only need one, for the front part of the spring? The rear uses the shackle.

I took a closer look at the current shackles, had planned on buying them, but the installed ones look ok, not rusted like the leaf spring itself. Only thing is any rubber elements may be cracked, I don't know. It's $90 for a new pair - any thoughts on if its needed?

The installed u-bolts I can tell are bent a little and will definitely replace. This is what I'm planning on getting:

Rubicon Express RE2421 Rear U-Bolt Kit for Jeep YJ/XJ (Zinc plated)

 

You may not need new shackles. You will be replacing the bottom bushing with the spring assuming you are getting springs with bushings installed. I highly recommend that as the bushing can be very difficult to install into the spring eye. I had to have a heavy duty truck spring shop press mine in. If it looks like the top bolt for the shackle is centered in the shackle bushing and you don't see obvious deformation it will likely be OK. If you decide to replace the shackle check out Crown 52000507. It is suitable for '84 - '01. You should find it at a lower price than $90 a pair. A consideration for not replacing the shackle is that if yours is similar to my '91 the top bolt goes into a hidden nut that is difficult to access and replace if it breaks free. Maybe leave well enough alone?

I am surprised that the U bolts look to be deformed on yours. As I recall the OE U bolts are not as heavy duty as those you can get with aftermarket parts but unless something unusual has happened I think it would be a bit hard to damage them in normal service. Look for other damage.

U bolt sets are not very costly but if you have a U pull salvage yard near you the U bolts should not be too difficult to remove.

 

Excellent writeup...and you could each your lunch of that underside

 

Third Coast (and anyone else who has installed rear leafs and changed out rear shackles) - All my parts have arrived. I ended up getting the Dorman shackles (part #722-024), just because it seemed they would be a good bet to marry with the Dorman leafs (929-301). All the parts look good but the rounded forks of the shackles (the bolt goes thru the forks with rear bushing of leaf in between) are a good 1/8 of an inch wider than the leaf itself. I held it up to the installed shackle underneath and confirmed it is wider.

Question: I'm assuming on install the bolt is cranked down so that the forks close snugly around the leaf, closing that gap? Can you confirm?

I want to have all the parts verified before starting the replacement. Thx - M

 

Removing the front eye bolt is probably the worst part of the job (& the one with the greatest risk attached) & by replacing the shackles you double that because, as Third coast suggested, the top bolt is very similar to the front one. Must admit, that hadn't occurred to me, probably because when I tackled mine, it was prompted by one shackle only being attached to the spring, the shackle box having gone altogether. Still, it's saved me a job when I come to tackle the other side.

 

I think it will be OK with the forks open a bit now. They will close to the steel tube inside the rubber bushing during install. I don't recall exactly what mine looked like before install but having them open is easier for a fit then having them closed too much. There is a decent torque requirement on these fasteners that will pull everything together. That brings up some additional issues: torque value and torque value if you use anti seize on fasteners. I have addressed anti seize considerations elsewhere on this forum a couple of years ago. If I get a chance I can repeat that guidance.

 

I strongly recommend using a torque wrench and specified torque values for all suspension fasteners. Suspension and head bolt applications are especially critical. I know that many will torque bolts until they are very tight plus a bit more and claim to never have had a problem. Improper torque can result in either under torque or over torque and cause a variety of problems down the road. Torqueing to spec is not hard to implement and the bit of extra time for a DIY job doesn't matter so why take a chance? Do it right.

Below are suspension torque values that I came up with from searching various sources when I did the suspension on my XJ. I typically found several different fastener torque values, sometimes due to the model year or model variations. It is not 100% complete and I don't guarantee the numbers are correct but it gives you the idea. Do your own research for your application. I chose what I thought was the best for my application - that is the Best Choice column. If you use anti seize compound on threads you must reduce bolt torque to compensate for the lubricating effect of the compound to avoid over torque. From my engineering experience and research 25% is a reasonable reduction. When the manufacture develops torque values this is done using the characteristics of the OEM bolt and almost always for dry threads (no lube, anti seize, etc). Changing the type of fastener, fastener coating, using washers, adding anti seize, etc. all change the actual applied clamp load, which is the ultimate goal.
If your vehicle is not exposed to corrosive environments such as frequent road salt I suggest using dry threads. If you do use anti seize compound use the 25% reduction column for torque values. I recommend rechecking torque for leaf spring eye attachment bolts and spring to axle U bolts after a few miles. I have a story regarding this but I will not take the time here.

 

Thanks all - new dorman rear leafs and shackles installed and it made a world of difference. Much smoother, quieter ride, now I'm looking for little bumps and potholes to savor the lack of a rattle and jolt. New leafs provided almost a two inch lift in the rear to level my xj out and give it a nicer profile.

Btw, do NOT get the Rubicon Express RE2421 Rear U-Bolt Kit - it did not properly fit over the axle, had to use the legacy U bolts. One was bent slightly, but it all seems to lock in fine.