2000 xj steering
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
2000 xj steering
Guys,
Bought my 2000 xj last month & still doing a few minor fixes to get her somewhat dependable & reliable. Did the oil change, coolant flush & a few other basic things.
Question is, how do you know if the steering stabilizer is bad? What are the obvious things if it is bad? She drives straight down the road with really no front end noises but the steering seems to "float" somewhat. Also the steering wheel has to be at about eleven o'clock position to keep her going in a straight line.
For the most part quite solid & a strong runner. 122,800 miles.
Bought my 2000 xj last month & still doing a few minor fixes to get her somewhat dependable & reliable. Did the oil change, coolant flush & a few other basic things.
Question is, how do you know if the steering stabilizer is bad? What are the obvious things if it is bad? She drives straight down the road with really no front end noises but the steering seems to "float" somewhat. Also the steering wheel has to be at about eleven o'clock position to keep her going in a straight line.
For the most part quite solid & a strong runner. 122,800 miles.
#3
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Yep, mine was leaking. Other than that I didn't notice any symptoms. I'm told by several respected members they really don't do much, at least not during on-road driving anyway.
Is this your first XJ? Every one I've driven is a tad floaty in the front end and slighly vague in the steering. Tough they are, slot cars they are not.
The steering wheel misalignment is a simple draglink sleeve adjustment underneath.
Is this your first XJ? Every one I've driven is a tad floaty in the front end and slighly vague in the steering. Tough they are, slot cars they are not.
The steering wheel misalignment is a simple draglink sleeve adjustment underneath.
#4
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Yep, mine was leaking. Other than that I didn't notice any symptoms. I'm told by several respected members they really don't do much, at least not during on-road driving anyway.
Is this your first XJ? Every one I've driven is a tad floaty in the front end and slighly vague in the steering. Tough they are, slot cars they are not.
The steering wheel misalignment is a simple draglink sleeve adjustment underneath.
Is this your first XJ? Every one I've driven is a tad floaty in the front end and slighly vague in the steering. Tough they are, slot cars they are not.
The steering wheel misalignment is a simple draglink sleeve adjustment underneath.
Radi,
Thanks for the reply.
Yes this is my 1st xj. Wasn't sure about the floating. I guess I'm use to my Ford Fusion quick response.
Any more detail on the drag link sleeve adjustment would be awesome.
Thanks,
#5
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There are two bolt/nut clamps on the drag link. You'll probably want to soak them with PB Blaster or some such as they're probably stuck.
Loosen both, turn the sleeve with a pipe wrench to center the steering wheel, tighten the clamps again.
I found a picture of the part you'll be loosening and turning, posted below. Not my pic, I stole it fair and square.
Look just right of the arrow labeled "drag link"- you'll see the adjusting sleeve.
Might want to give everything under there a good once over, the drag link doesn't misadjust itself- make sure nothing is bent, loose or broken. I'm curious why the wheel is off-center in the first place.
Loosen both, turn the sleeve with a pipe wrench to center the steering wheel, tighten the clamps again.
I found a picture of the part you'll be loosening and turning, posted below. Not my pic, I stole it fair and square.
Look just right of the arrow labeled "drag link"- you'll see the adjusting sleeve.
Might want to give everything under there a good once over, the drag link doesn't misadjust itself- make sure nothing is bent, loose or broken. I'm curious why the wheel is off-center in the first place.
Last edited by Radi; 10-14-2012 at 02:08 AM.
#6
remove one bolt and move rod in/out.
1.If it is empty, it will move easy.
2.Last one I replaced had about 1/4' easy movement, enough for death wobble.
3.If it is half empty, the only way to check is to buy new one and compare force needed to move rod in/out.
Death wobble usually happens around 45-55, so if you have it, it is time to spend $28.
And check all suspension/steering parts.
1.If it is empty, it will move easy.
2.Last one I replaced had about 1/4' easy movement, enough for death wobble.
3.If it is half empty, the only way to check is to buy new one and compare force needed to move rod in/out.
Death wobble usually happens around 45-55, so if you have it, it is time to spend $28.
And check all suspension/steering parts.
#7
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It doesn't appear anything is bent or "cobbled". Great illustration of the front end components. I will try as suggested.
Thanks for the replies.
Thanks for the replies.
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