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2000 XJ no start please help!!!!!

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Old 10-01-2015, 10:20 PM
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Default 2000 XJ no start please help!!!!!

I have no idea what can be causing this please help, it's kicking my butt.

Symptoms
-Cranks but won't start (not cps)
-Backfires out of TB and exhaust sometimes when trying to start but not always.
-sometimes starts and runs very rough then stalls.
-sometimes starts and runs fine.

Parts replaced
-ECU
-coil packs
-tps
-cps
-cam position sensor
-coolant temp sensor
-fuel injectors

On the occasions that it does start or at least try to start it seems like it's misfiring or out of timing or something. I'm considering a valve issue? But when it starts it'll usually run fine so I don't know... I'm very frustrated and confused. Any help is appreciated. Sometimes, if I prime it a bunch like 15 times it'll backfire out the tb then start, could that mean fuel pump? But when I tested it it was priming to over 40 psi consistently...
Old 10-01-2015, 11:38 PM
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Let's approach this a little differently, when did the no start happen and what are the codes?
Old 10-02-2015, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
Let's approach this a little differently, when did the no start happen and what are the codes?
They started a few weeks ago and it became gradually harder to start over a few days which makes me think something was going out so waited till it went thinking that it wouldn't be so hard to diagnose.
Old 10-02-2015, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
Let's approach this a little differently, when did the no start happen and what are the codes?
And the codes are for tps, coil pack, can sensor, and some trans codes which I think are unrelated because they've popped up before. I can provide a list when I get home if it would help.
Old 10-02-2015, 10:01 AM
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I think you should check the 5 volt supply to the sensors.

All engine management sensors (not ECT or IAT) receive a 5 volt reference voltage from the PCM in order for the sensors to operate normally.

Try unplugging the MAP sensor connector (easy to get to).

Turn the ignition witch to ON/RUN (engine not running).

Using a digital voltmeter set to 20 Volts DC, touch the connector pin cavity with the Orange wire going to it with your (+) meter probe and connect the (-) probe to the battery negative post. You should read 5 volts +/- .5 volts.

Too high might be your clock spring is at fault, too low may be a high resistance in the Orange wire from the PCM. If there is a voltage fault try the TPS connector and see if the fault is there as well.
Old 10-02-2015, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
I think you should check the 5 volt supply to the sensors.

All engine management sensors (not ECT or IAT) receive a 5 volt reference voltage from the PCM in order for the sensors to operate normally.

Try unplugging the MAP sensor connector (easy to get to).

Turn the ignition witch to ON/RUN (engine not running).

Using a digital voltmeter set to 20 Volts DC, touch the connector pin cavity with the Orange wire going to it with your (+) meter probe and connect the (-) probe to the battery negative post. You should read 5 volts +/- .5 volts.

Too high might be your clock spring is at fault, too low may be a high resistance in the Orange wire from the PCM. If there is a voltage fault try the TPS connector and see if the fault is there as well.
Ok I just got home I'll go give this a try
Old 10-02-2015, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
I think you should check the 5 volt supply to the sensors.

All engine management sensors (not ECT or IAT) receive a 5 volt reference voltage from the PCM in order for the sensors to operate normally.

Try unplugging the MAP sensor connector (easy to get to).

Turn the ignition witch to ON/RUN (engine not running).

Using a digital voltmeter set to 20 Volts DC, touch the connector pin cavity with the Orange wire going to it with your (+) meter probe and connect the (-) probe to the battery negative post. You should read 5 volts +/- .5 volts.

Too high might be your clock spring is at fault, too low may be a high resistance in the Orange wire from the PCM. If there is a voltage fault try the TPS connector and see if the fault is there as well.
ok I did the test and got around 5.17 for the MAP and TPS but I checked the sensor on the other side of the TB and got around 12v or 2 terminals and around .2v for the other 2... Is that normal or should it be 5v as well?
Old 10-02-2015, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by zumer715
ok I did the test and got around 5.17 for the MAP and TPS but I checked the sensor on the other side of the TB and got around 12v or 2 terminals and around .2v for the other 2... Is that normal or should it be 5v as well?
I think you're talking about the IAC. It doesn't use the 5 volt reference voltage.


The 5.17 volts you saw is goo.


End test.
Old 10-02-2015, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
I think you're talking about the IAC. It doesn't use the 5 volt reference voltage.


The 5.17 volts you saw is goo.


End test.
Oh ok. Well yea everything seemed fine then. I'm pretty positive that it's something keeping it from getting spark because after attempting to start it, I can smell gas in the TB but most times when I try to start it, it seems like it's not getting spark.
Old 10-02-2015, 07:12 PM
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Perhaps you should turn your attention to that Cam Sensor you installed.


Did you install it per the Factory Service Manual?


It does need final adjustment using a DRBIII after install (dealer),
Old 10-03-2015, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Perhaps you should turn your attention to that Cam Sensor you installed.


Did you install it per the Factory Service Manual?


It does need final adjustment using a DRBIII after install (dealer),
Is that even for just the sensor cap piece or for when replacing the whole assembly? And since no symptoms changed after replacing it I'm not sure if that'd be a factor
Old 10-03-2015, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by zumer715
Is that even for just the sensor cap piece or for when replacing the whole assembly? And since no symptoms changed after replacing it I'm not sure if that'd be a factor

You're right, I guess the symptom existed before changing all those sensors and none of them made a difference.


It may be a mechanical problem, like a broken valve spring.


Or the timing chain has jumped (unlikely).


Maybe a compression check would be in order.
Old 10-03-2015, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by zumer715
it seems like it's not getting spark.
Have you pulled a couple of spark plugs and looked at them?
Old 10-03-2015, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
You're right, I guess the symptom existed before changing all those sensors and none of them made a difference.


It may be a mechanical problem, like a broken valve spring.


Or the timing chain has jumped (unlikely).


Maybe a compression check would be in order.
I just re-indexed the cam position sensor with no results.

I performed a compression check and all were within 20 psi with the lowest at 160ish and the highest at 175 which seems high for a motor with 250,000 miles...

I looked at all the plugs and they have some carbon buildup but nothing major so I cleaned them up, gapped them to .035 (they were all close already) and put em back in. No results. I also went through all my grounds again including the braided wire from the valve cover to the firewall. I'm about to push this thing off a cliff haha
Old 10-03-2015, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by zumer715
I looked at all the plugs and they have some carbon buildup but nothing major so I cleaned them up, gapped them to .035 (they were all close already) and put em back in.
Were the spark plugs soaked with fuel? As far as fuel pressure do you get 49 psi +/- 5?


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