is it possible on of them valves that lets air in is stuck shut? (i cant think of the technical name...) i also second the faulty injector. and maybe bad valve spring/rocker? im not sure if it the last one would effect your engine like you described. just my 4 hay-pennies.

 

So after 30 + miles of driving the mil lamp came back on. It said the front o2 sensor, so I replaced it and it seems to be a little better. Time will tell.

As for the iac, The symptoms do not add up, so that is not a priority right now.
I have not done a compression test but That also does not add up.

If the map sensor was bad it would cause a high idle not a low idle.

I HAVE been thinking of a bad injector but I was hoping it wasnt as I do not have the money or tools to do it properly.

If the intake valve was bad The engine would not run good at any speed as well as the rocker and valve spring and rods. I dont want to sound like an @ss but if you do not know what you are talking about then I would recomend not saying anything.

 

Check for vacuum leaks, a leak could effect idle.

 

Has the fuel pressure at the rail been verified with a guage during low idle? Could be a faulty FPR..

 

I had a rough idle a month or so ago....changed the CPS. Runs smooth now.

 

whether you want to or not, get injectors checked, bank 1 and 2 o2's are prob bad, catylitic converter is prob clogged bc of all the gas that the o2's sensed.. and the bad injector or rail is what may be the cause of all this. however it can also be a vaccum leak..
think critically, if it smells like gas, then too much gas is being mixed in. OR not enough air. meaning.. vacuum is leaking or your fuel rail/injectors/regulator is bad. but i suggest a compression test also.

 

You got it dude, first one added to my "ignore" list, nice job.

 

asking for help then telling every one no to there suggestions, kinda urks me also i just let them throw parts at it and sit back and watch ..lol...

 

Maybe its your u-joints in the drive shaft...

 

Thats not at all what I meant, but I can see why you are angry or urked. I reread my post and I do appologize. I guess I was a little fustrated over the thing running like it did. I shouldnt let it get to me but I have little money, and I am in school So fustration is at its limit.

As for the rest of the posts I do not have any money for injectors. I also do not have a pressure gauge but I may be able to find on.

 

bad map sensor can cause lousy idle with a very rich fuel mix lots of smoke unless you are on the throttle and likes to try to die if not die.

 

check your fuel pressure.

 

Is your exhaust manifold cracked? If it is could it be throwing off you oxygen sensor reading?
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...ies/index.html
Read the part about headers.

 

Coolant temp sensor right on the water neck. Will make it run very rough!

 

Tyler........

When I wrote suggesting fuel injectors, what I was suggesting was getting 1 and only one injector......

from a junkyard, from a friend or someone willing to lend you one for a day( hour or whatever)..

and test by removing number one injector, put spare in.....run jeep see if it affects the problem

(from earlier reads, seems like you might want to start at number 6, I dunno).

then just keep swapping until you see a marked improvement.

you know, put "test" injector in position #1, run jeep. put "test" injector in number #2 poisition and run.....etc.etc.

if anywhere in the sequence you find that your jeep is running signifigantly better......

then you will know you have a marginal or failing injector.

on a second note....you can remove each injector (better to de-pressurize fuel rail first, each time you do install/remove an injector), then closely examine it (use a magnifying glass if you have to) and see if there is any pitting/corrosion/etching that looks abnormal around the pintle area of the injector. (now, keep in mind, sometimes they might appear fine physically, but the inductance component within the injector could be going bad, I cannot begin to explain for you testing that, unless you wish to take resistance readings on the connector end...etc etc etc, even then no gaurantees) Noting the appearance on each one...taking pictures would be a good idea as you go (i.e. close ups of the injector pintle area). post them here, and see whats what.

and swapping injectors, does not take very many hand tools sir, .....just patience and attention to detail......
I believe you only have to unbolt the fuel rail, and then each injector connection has a spring clip very easlily pryed off, then pull injector straight out, being careful that o-ring stays on injector end as you remove it...then you can inspect/test/remove/install/test/remove next one/inspect/test...etc.,

one thing I like to do when putting them back in is coat the o-ring with just a little tiny dab of vaseline around it. they seem to like that as they go back in nicely. make sure you only get it on the o-ring and not down near the pintle (opening for fuel to dump).


anyway, that is a pretty cheap and thorough way to tell if any of your injectors are going or have failed.

If none of the results of the testing change the way the jeep runs,,,,,,you might, as other posters said, have a bad MAP sensor (thingy sitting at the firewall with tiny hoses going to it just above the motor to the right as you view the engine)...also inspect those vacuum hoses (at the MAP sensor) with a STRONG flashlight and a inspection mirror (so you can see any cracks or splits BEHIND the tiny hoses).

anyway my two cent drivel, wish you well...it is something simple to fix, the time tho to get the problem solved is valuable as you will never forget that symptom again once you have isolated and repaired it.

cpnwrench



another thing you can do is this........