Alright will do. I think If I remove the crank, get it cleaned up like you said, and do a light hone, I can get everything back in without breaking the bank. The crank journls look way worse than they are, most are extremely smooth, and any little spots you see is just contamination from my gloves. Could the lines/grooves be material from the bearings?

 

IDK but while it's out you need a thorough assessment.

BTW a refurb is only about 2 bucks with bearings:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ankshaft%20Kit

 

I saw a crankshaft for a similar price on rockauto, $212. In any case, I'd probably try my luck at polishing it up myself or getting it cleaned at a shop before I resort to buying another crank. On another note, should I be worried about cam wear at this mileage?

 

Not if you get the aforementioned micrometer and measure the diameters.

Although equally (or more important) would be the cam bearings.

Anyway what's your ultimate goal and budget here? Originally, you posted

which suggests to me a budget-conscious plan.

If now you're drifting into a complete rebuild you're looking at getting to one large in a hurry. If so then maybe you should think about

 

Honestly I'm not 100% sure which direction I want to take. I would like to do everything on a budget, but then as I rip stuff apart I end up wanting to replace more and more. In a perfect world, I'd just rebuild the whole engine and enjoy it, but in the real world that cost $$$. I could still do a junkyard swap, but there aren't many low mileage engine in the junkyard from what I can see, and I don't know how to check the mileage of cars with the digital odometer. I'm thinking if I clean up the crank, get new rod and main bearings, rings, and pistons, and possibly hone the bore while it's all out, I can have something that will run for a decent amount of time as I save up for a full rebuild of another engine on the side. What do you think would be the best course of action?

 

Just bought a bore Guage, micrometer, and calipers. I'll post measurements when I have the time

 

Bores ranged from 3.875-3.879, median was 3.877. So I should be good running standard pistons and rings. Rods journals were 2.096-2.098, and based on piston #3 and #4, the oil clearance was 0.003-0.005 in, so definitely out of spec. The bearings were worn so I'm not surprised.

 

How're you making out with the rod surfaces on the crank? Are those grooves or schmutz?

Yank off a main or 3, see how worn they are and check the clearance.

Getting close to Decision Time-- and IIWM I'd absolutely be doing the cam bearings, and it would naturally follow to slap in a new cam and lifters.

 

IMO if you replace the one piston and do the rod bearings it will be fine for a "decent amount of time". If the mains are OK then the cam bearings should be OK (especially since your oil pressure looks to be OK).

 

I yanked off a main like you advised and it looks and feels better than the rod bearings and journals. The bearing shows no copper and feels smooth as glass despite the picture. Same goes for the crank, more shine than the journals and feels smooth as glass, no ripples or any fingernail catching. Also figured I'd throw in some pics of the cam.

Main cap bearing showing a size of 0.001 (under or oversized?)

 

OK great, that's good news.

Removing the crank is kind of a big deal and probably not necessary. If the rod journals aren't too bad (and even if they are) IIWM I'd get caustic chemical de jour (Lye, Easy-Off Oven Cleaner or Muriatic Acid all at HD) and dissolve the schmutz. Those solutions dissolve aluminum, and for that matter your eyes if you get it in there. Don't leave any chemical behind.

 

I'm starting to think THIS engine might be the best choice. The 98 head is a good head. The bottom will be tight. Cam and lifters you can do from the top. Gotta take a look at the rings.

Or were you thinking of going stroker?

Although I don't get those people.

It's not like you end up with a Hellcat Hemi.

 

No interest in a stroker. For the price of building one, I'd honestly rather swap in a junkyark lm7 and have better torque, power, and headroom for more power in the future. Anyway, is there some trick to remove lifters? I tried pulling one out but it just wouldn't budge (head was removed). Also is there a way to slip out the top main bearing? I know the bottom size but want to find out the size of the top bearing.

 

AutoZone makes a lifter removal tool that should help. Bang out the top mains with a tongue depressor.

Got this:

https://cdn.xjjeeps.com/pdf/en-us/19...ice-manual.pdf

Page 9-80 they fabricate a yanking tool.

 

Polished up the #1 rod journal to clean off some of the junk, seemed to work pretty good! Also plastiguaged one of the mains and it was within spec at 0.002in.