OK, that was my question. Heading out now. I'll update shortly! Thank you!

 

Ok. 12 V is all I get(14 w/engine running)
Now if I check from system ground to chassis ground what should I be getting?
I'm still just confused that if 12V is getting to the blower why it isn't turning?

 

Ok I checked voltage going to the blower plug. Without the blower plugged in it reads 12V but with the blower plugged in then it only shows a little over 2V?

 

Where are you placing the negative (-) probe of the meter when you took these voltage readings?

 

I've gone to the battery and also to a place on the body. The 12V was one the plug, tried it on the battery and also a place on the body.

I check continuity from one plug to another, also to the body.

 

Part of Ken's post #13
"Also, this is the first model year that the blower speed is controlled through its ground circuit, as opposed to controlling power to the blower."

And in post #1 " I jumped the fan straight to the battery and it works like a champ,"

Sounds like possibly a bad connection on the power side? (that should be getting toasty hot)

Trusting that Ken has correct info on the current being regulated on the ground side, I might jump 12v to the fan positive, and see that the speed controls work. From there, again, work back. At some point that wire you are seeing 2 Volts from connects to 12 Volts. The bad connection should be getting hot, (or warm, at least). The blower fans are pretty high draw.

Looken at the diagram in post #13, I'd look for signs 40a fuse #6, was getting hot, likewise the socket for the relay. I might make double sure both the fuse, and relay sockets were clean. Blast with CRC electrical contact cleaner, pull them in and out, wiggle, blast again, repeat.

 

Crazy, your engine, body, and bat Neg, should all read about 1 ohm of resistance between eachother, This is with everything off, "resting". (likewise your sensor ground circuit, accessed at your TPS, or MAP sensors).

The meter is set on ohms, (the symbol looks like headphones), and on the lowest scale. Less than 2 between all those, even when you wiggle the wires is what we all want to see. A little off topic, but there is some ground resistance info!

 

I didn't get a chance to get to the garage today. Maybe tonight after work but I want to say a quick thanks to those who are try to help me out!

 

This thing is driving me crazy!!

 

Finally after replacing about everything I could replace. It ended up being a burnt wire in C100(up under the dash on the drivers side), between the 40A fuse and the blower motor relay.

 

...and its frkkin cold out.

40 amp power feed fuse was cooked; some ****** had wrapped wire around it so as to keep it from blowing. Cleaned sockets and replaced fuse, but still no joy.

I got no power at the blower connector. I have power thru the relay. Relay is good. No power at the connector for the resistor pack. Resistor pack has continuity thru it so I ASSume this means it's OK...but mute point as it is getting no power.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

 

Which one of your three Heeps is this about?

 

This is about the 1997. It does have the "209" connector and so appears to have the later model wiring setup as per your post above. That is the schematic I'm working off, anyway. Blower resistor is new as of yesterday and still nothing. Again, there is power thru the blower relay.

I guess I'll find a way to weasel in there and get power to the blower motor to verify its operational, but I doubt that's the problem as there is no voltage on it's connector.

 

What method are you using to determine there is no voltage at the blower motor connector?

 

12v test light hooked to battery neg terminal. Blower connector is 2-wire; one wire should be hot if relay is energized, no? The other wire runs to the controls (which are on the ground circuit side). I have no hot with relay energized...

I also use test light inside the vehicle... connected to a jumper wire run to the battery. And connected to + side if to check for ground...

I'm gonna go back out and start checking wires for continuity. Maybe I'll find a break...but this vehicle is so clean & unmolested - wiring & everything looks like new under there.