Car starts and runs everyday but after getting to my destination usually over 30 minutes or more when I try to start it again t cranks but will not start. IF I wait over an hour until it cools down it starts right up and will get me home. Then again I'd have to wait for it to cool down, usually overnight and then it starts again.

 

Do either of the following produce different results:

1. Starting while feathering the gas pedal slightly (just a small amount of pedal applied).

or

2. Pushing pedal completely to floor, cranking 4-5 times (it should not try to start), then releasing pedal, and attempting another startup

 

Sounds like a faulty crank sensor to me.

 

Exactly what happened to me, I replaced CPS

 

although I personally dont like the idea of pouring water on an electronic sensor, I have heard pouring water on it is a way to "test" the issue, (by cooling it right down).
CPS does appear to be a fully sealed item, so it probably should do any damage

 

Thanks! I'll try this later when after it heats up enough to fail to start.

 

Thanks, is the crank sensor easy to find/replace? I'll start looking at youtube now.

 

Thanks, I'll try to find/replace this now sounds like it could do the trick. I'll keep you posted!

 

Hide all firearms and sharp objects. Remove small children from immediate area.

 

I did mine yesterday and still have the stuff out:




On my 2000:

1. Whatever you do, don't drop the bolts down the sensor opening!
2. There's a fat tube that sits in front of the bolts. Use a bungee connected to the hood to hold it out of the way.
3. HFT magnetic flashlight for light.
4. Piece of duct tape in the sockets to hold the bolts in the socket during removal/replacement.
5. Drop the front driveshaft. (4) 8mm bolts. Takes 60 seconds. Saves 15 minutes (at least).
6. 18 or 24 inch extension depending on where you want your ratchet to be.
7. 11mm flex socket or short 11mm socket and GOOD universal joint. If your universal joint is floppy throw it away and get a new one.
8. Unplug, remove, replace, replug.
9. Put driveshaft back.

 

Before anything...tighten the schrader valve on the fuel rail...you can use precise needle nose pliers or the tool that comes with a tire repair kit....see what happens after that.....

 

It may be different for 4wd, mine is 2wd, it was super easy it’s right on top of the bellhousing you’ll see it if you get under the Jeep, you’ll need a lot of extensions.

 

I used wobble socket extensions from harbor freight to replace mine, but I still think he should check the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Did anyone mention he needs the mopar crankshaft position sensor?...Just sayin

 

Knockoffs are down to 15 bucks:



Just sayin' back.

 

I was only just sayin cause every time in every thread I posted I was told Mopar Mopar Mopar....and like nothing else...I don't care if a knockoff works...but Mopar was drilled into me from this Forum!!!!!