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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
My son just got a 1996 Cherokee Classic. It had to be jump started to get it home. First thing we got was a new battery. It started instantly with the new battery the first time. After that we have had issues with it starting. It was hit or miss for the entire week and now will not start at all. This has all happened in the course of 1 week.
Changed the battery
Changed the started although the old starter was practically new
changed starter thing in the fuse box (square black box)
At first it would start fine several times in a row and then not. For example It went from 20 times fine then no start, 15 times fine then no start, 10 times fine then no start and finally started 3 times and never started again.
***when the key is turned on all the lights come on, the radio comes on but that last turn to start nothing happens. We can hear a clicking*******
Had a mechanic look at it. Electronics is not his specialty. He could not find any open circuits. (he is the one who started over and over trying to get it to do it again)
I don't want to through more parts at it. Looking for what else I can check or other solutions.
Where is the clicking coming from? Is it a rapid click, or just one click and done? Could be a relay, or the starter. Check the battery cables for corrosion at the clamps, and see if any corrosion has wicked up the cable behind the insualtion. If they are corroded, the starter may not be getting all the power it needs to turn the engine over, and will just sit there and click.
The ignition key cylinder was changed out in the past. No record of exactly when. What if they put in the wrong one? Would it work for a while and then stop?
i had a very similar issue with my 1996 grand Cherokee.
although when trying to start the fuel pump with prime
but the only clicking that was made is from the auto delay relay which i still have to replace or remove
the starter itself never tried to turn over.
there was spark and fuel pressure
here was what i did
changed battery: vehicle started and ran just fine for a day or two then back to not starting
changed the crankshaft position sensor: again the jeep started and ran fine for two days then back to not starting
changed the coil pack: started and ran fine for a day then again back to not starting
changed the plug wires: started and ran fine day then back to you know what.
last time i changed a few things
cam sensor (not sure what they called it, i think ignition pickup sensor or something like that)
distributor rotor
distributor cap
not had a problem since those last 3 things was changed.
not sure if or what all really needed to be replaced
not sure if this helps you out at all but those last three things on my jeep cost me about 30-40 total,
each of the prior things was much more expensive, the crankshaft position sensor everyone recommends to use oem parts, that was like 80 bucks but saving the 30-40 using the aftermarket is not worth it if you can't do the labor part yourself.
The ignition key cylinder was changed out in the past. No record of exactly when. What if they put in the wrong one? Would it work for a while and then stop?
Considering that you've been able to start it with turning the key in the past, whatever is in there is likely fine for the keyed cylinder. I think it's probably a good idea to check the camshaft sensor (the one under the distributor cap) and make sure the ASD and starter relays are functioning correctly.
Appreciate all the help.
Going to try to see where the clicking is coming from in the morning. I am fairly sure it is not the starter or cylinoid. It's not that loud and it is only 1 or 2 clicks.
Are the battery cables original, sometimes they can look clean and still cause problems.
Have you checked the NSS? When my Jeep wouldn't start one day, I jiggled the shift lever, tried again, and she started. Sometimes it's the oddest thing that causes problems.
So my son already tor out the key cylinder. He was convinced it was that. Here is what we found.
the first picture is what came out, the second is a new one the compared it to.
Looking at that I'd say he may have found the issue. That end being cracked would easily flex out of the way of turning the actual ignition switch behind the barrel. I'd check that the switch that it slots against looks to be intact and it's not 2 parts that are damaged.
On the VW T2's I've had this exact same issue but in reverse, where the switch has cracked which doesn't allow it to turn enough to engage the starter motor.